Enigmatic England: Your Comprehensive Guide to Cornwall and the South West

Our Content Lead, Natalie, uncovers the best of the region’s activities, accommodation, and cuisine.

Natalie Holmes
Terracotta Travel
8 min readJan 17, 2020

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Terracotta’s Content Lead, Natalie Holmes, has lived in Berlin for over a decade, and this December returned to her homeland to revisit the scene of her childhood vacations with close family. Ever the explorer, Natalie took the opportunity to uncover the best of the region’s activities, accommodation, and cuisine to ensure we can plan your dream trip.

Memories of my childhood, like the photos on the walls of my family home, are all set in Cornwall, England’s most charming and beautiful county. My grandparents owned a tiny, traditional cottage in the small town of Redruth, where we spent many a blissful summer holiday — the days stretching into weeks, the sand a permanent fixture between my toes. It’s safe to say my recent family trip to Cornwall was loaded with emotion and expectation — and it didn’t disappoint.

South West England is a wonderland of rural elegance, dramatic coastline, pristinely-preserved history, and enduring tradition — and we’ve put together a comprehensive guide to the region and a special itinerary that lets you discover it all. So whether you love exploring the outdoors or basking on the beach, family adventures or romantic retreats, historical exploration or foodie indulgence, here’s how to make precious memories that, like mine, will last a lifetime.

Spectacular beaches, gorgeous gardens, and impressive National Parks

The tides are strong in Cornwall. At high tide, the sea crashes against the rugged rocks. Then, slowly but surely, the water is drawn back like a blanket to reveal a soft bed of yellow sand that stretches so far it merges with the horizon. From the crescent moon cove of Praa Sands in the west, to the idyllic Kynance Cove on the Lizard Peninsula, to the natural rock swimming pool at Perranporth in the north, Cornwall’s beaches are second to none.

Kynance Cove, Lizard Peninsula

Summer, of course, is the best time of year to visit for swimming and sunbathing, but spring, fall, and even winter are ideal for windswept walks along the South West Coast Path. England’s longest signposted footpath stretches for 630 miles around the scenic edge of Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. There are plenty of inland riches, too: Dartmoor National Park, for example, is a wild and mystical terrain of rocky outcrops, diverse wildlife, and wide open space perfect for exploration on foot, by bike, or on horseback.

Dartmoor ponies

To encounter the more delicate beauty of the natural world, make tracks for the Great Gardens of Cornwall, which, thanks to the warmth of the Gulf Stream, are home to some of the rarest and most striking plants in the UK. There are 12 gardens to choose from, each with its own unique history and character. I opted for the internationally-renowned Eden Project, a sprawling duo of geodesic enclosures that recreate the conditions of the rainforest and mediterranean biomes. Set in a stunning landscape that was once a disused quarry, the Eden Project is an immersive utopia of sustainability, education, and biophilic wonder.

Quaint towns & villages and fascinating history

Cornwall’s landscape is dotted with ancient churches, many of which are centuries-old Grade I listed buildings. Wherever you are, you won’t be far from a church, and the best way to discover them is with a bespoke private tour; the Cornish are warm and friendly, proud of their heritage and happy to share their knowledge. Another ubiquitous reminder of the region’s fascinating history is its old tin mines, which reflect a legacy dating back to the Bronze Age and in 2006 earned the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape a coveted UNESCO listing.

Historical tin mines

For a taste of contemporary Cornwall, towns like St. Ives, Bude, Padstow, and the beautiful British boating hub of Falmouth are vibrant centers of art, culture, and acclaimed cuisine. At the breathtaking Minack Theatre, an open air stage overlooking the sea, watch world-class performances as nature provides the ultimate backdrop. And at Marazion Beach, wait patiently in a beachside cafe for low tide, or go with a guide to time it perfectly, then cross the ancient causeway to St Michael’s Mount, a Medieval castle amid sub-tropical gardens on a magical rocky island.

St. Ives
St. Michael’s Mount

Sublime local food and drink

Clotted cream, Cornish pasties, white wine, cider, speciality cheeses… the list of Cornish food and drink is as long as it is mouthwatering. It’s no accident that I mentioned clotted cream first: It was my favorite as a child, dolloped on a scoop of Cornish ice cream dripping down a wafer cone. The more sophisticated approach is to slather it atop a scone with lashings of strawberry jam.

Afternoon tea with scones

For a hearty, wholesome snack or light lunch on the go, stop by any bakery and pick up a Cornish pasty — a pocket of soft, shortcrust pastry wrapped around a filling of beef, potato, and onion in succulent gravy. (These days, vegetarian options are common, too.) In a cozy local pub, ask the bar staff for a cider recommendation or order a tasting flight to discover your perfect apple-based tipple.

Cornish seafood is famous throughout the British Isles, and no visit would be complete without sampling the ocean’s fresh, delicious offerings. According to the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide, the most sustainable options include monkfish, Pacific oyster, lobster, hake, and scallop — so plenty of opportunity for guilt-free indulgence. Thanks to its warm microclimate, Cornwall produces excellent white wines, whose crisp, fruity notes pair perfectly with local fish and seafood dishes.

Fish & chips, the quintessential English dish
Cornish oysters

Country house elegance meets coastal charm

On arrival at the Nare Hotel, we stepped out of the car to the sound of December’s crashing waves and the unmistakable aroma of crisp, salty air. The hotel combines the opulence of an English country manor and the charm of a secluded seaside retreat, sitting on a vast stretch of beach hugged on each side by pretty peninsulas. We savored afternoon tea in the pretty lounge while gazing out through vast windows at the omnipresent ocean. The inimitable texture of clotted cream on my tongue and the sound of the waves transported me back to a time of innocence and unbounded happiness. To me, that’s the true power of travel: to take you so far away that you somehow come back to yourself and realize home is not a place, but a state of mind.

The Nare Hotel
Bedroom at the Nare

Timeless Tradition & Aristocratic Ambiance: A Scenic Tour Of South West England (15 Nights)

An ideal itinerary to explore South West England.

Berkshire | The Cotswolds | Dartmoor National Park | South Cornwall Coast | New Forest | Windsor Great Park

  • Begin in the Royal County of Berkshire, home to Henley Royal Regatta, and spend two nights amid the traditional splendor of Cliveden House. Take a jaunt down the Thames in a vintage launch, and stop to lounge on the green riverbank for a champagne picnic.
Punting on the Thames
  • Continue west to the Cotswolds, a picture-book region of rolling hills, quaint villages, and stately homes. Spend three nights at Thyme, a peaceful hamlet set in idyllic grounds that epitomize the area’s unique natural beauty. Get a true taste of rural life at a special sheepdog demonstration, or take a private tour of Blenheim palace with the Duke of Marlborough’s former butler.
Broadway Tower, Coltswolds
  • Stop en route in the ancient spa city of Bath or Corsham Court​, which houses an exceptional art collection with works by the Old Masters. before heading to Dartmoor, a wild landscape of raw beauty and legend. Stay inside the National Park at the century-old arts and crafts manor of Gidleigh Park, or opt for the chic, fairytale ambiance of Hotel Endsleigh just west of Dartmoor. Don your hiking boots to explore the riverside trails, scenic waterfalls, and ancient stone circles on foot. Or venture out to quaint nearby villages and towns to browse the arts markets and independent boutiques.
Dartmoor
  • Venture deep into Cornwall and stay for three nights on the southern coast at the Nare Hotel, with its traditional charm, or the timelessly sophisticated Tresanton.
  • Circle back along the south coast through Dorset and Exeter to the New Forest, a vast National Park known for its native ponies, for two indulgent nights at Chewton Glen, a luxurious country house hotel with endless charm and centuries of history. Spend a spectacular evening at nearby Somerley estate, a typical New Forest village home to the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey and 13th-century Palace House. Or, for high-octane adventure, go off road in a 4WD through some of the UK’s most challenging 4x4 trails.
The New Forest
  • Finally, spend two nights at Coworth Park, an iconic country house hotel located conveniently close to Heathrow Airport and just a stone’s throw from Windsor Castle, an official residence of Her Majesty the Queen. Let music stir your soul during an atmospheric evensong performance at St. George’s Chapel in Windsor, enjoy a gin tasting at the Bombay Sapphire distillery, or savor a unique meal at Heston Blumenthal’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant, The Fat Duck.
Windsor Castle
  • Option: Add two or three nights in London at the start or end of your itinerary for a truly unforgettable trip through the diverse attractions of enigmatic England.

For a shorter 9-night trip, head straight to Bath for a night in the Bath Priory Hotel, a gothic masterpiece and luxurious urban sanctuary. Take a walking tour to explore the city’s pristinely-preserved Georgian architecture and Roman baths, before continuing to Dartmoor for two nights, Cornwall for three nights, New Forest for two nights, and finishing up with a night at Coworth Park near Heathrow.

Inspired for your next trip? Contact us and we’ll put together a dream itinerary, tailored just for you.

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Natalie Holmes
Terracotta Travel

Humanitarian, writer, yoga teacher, budding urban farmer. Managing editor @ medium.com/postgrowth