Exploring Jordan: A Journey of Discovery and Cultural Immersion
I headed to Jordan at the end of 2023 to discover this classic destination in new ways, immersing myself in unique experiences and engaging with the local communities. There is something truly magical about ringing in the new year in a foreign country, especially one with breathtakingly beautiful natural landscapes and mystical ancient sites. From the moment I stepped onto Jordan’s orange-hued earth I was struck by the kindness of its people, who seem deeply grounded yet closely connected to their spirituality. Come with me on a journey to discover this fascinating country’s secrets anew.
Introducing Amman: Exploring the Capital City
Strolling back from the top of the ancient hilltop Citadel in Amman, I stopped to chat with a local woman picking rosemary growing on the hillside. As the children’s kites joyously danced in the warm evening skies, her family joined in the conversation about how they cook with this fragrant herb. This heartwarming encounter set the scene for my interactions with locals, who were always so friendly, welcoming, and proud to share their culture.
Amman is the perfect place to start discovering Jordanian culture. Although a relatively new city, built mostly in the 20th century, it’s home to historic sites such as the Citadel, perched high above the sprawling metropolis. Trek up to the top, or take a private transfer, to watch the sunrise over the city, before exploring the spectacular Umayyad Palace, which features an awe-inspiring ceiling dome dating back to 720 CE, as well as an intricately carved hand from a giant statue of Hercules lying in the ruins of an ancient temple.
A short walk away lies the impressive Roman Theater, which hosts atmospheric outdoor concerts during the summer. From here, visit the partially preserved Roman Nymphaeum, an elaborate public fountain dedicated to nymphs, deities of springs, rivers, and streams. To fully immerse yourself in Arab culture, walk to the nearby Darat Al Funun; a creative hub that hosts a plethora of exhibitions, talks, screenings, and workshops offering a unique way to encounter the arts.
If you are in the city on a Friday, visit the Grand Husseini Mosque to watch as throngs of worshippers make their way to noon prayer and feel a sense of spirituality descend. Take a drive to the Abdali district to gaze upon wonderful contemporary Islamic architecture — the King Abdullah I Mosque, which is the only mosque in Amman to welcome non-Muslim visitors, is topped by a beautiful blue dome over a vast octagonal prayer hall decorated with Quranic inscriptions. Further out lies the Jordan Museum, which presents the ongoing story of this ancient kingdom, and a short drive away is Martyr’s Memorial Museum, where you can learn the moving stories of those who died in the struggle for Jordanian independence. If you’re a car enthusiast you’ll love the Royal Automobile Museum, and its display of over 80 of King Hussein’s cars and motorcycles; and the Royal Tank Museum, which features interactive family-friendly storytelling just 10 minutes’ drive from the city center.
Culinary Adventures: Delving into Jordanian Cuisine
Whilst walking is not always the best way to get around Amman, it certainly is the best way to soak up the atmosphere of the pedestrian-friendly area of the aptly named Rainbow Street and its kaleidoscope of boutiques, cafes, bars, and restaurants. At the dazzling Rihani Gallery, browse mother-of-pearl Syrian furniture, luscious carpets, and stunning jewelry, as well as a roster of art exhibitions. Escape from the bustle of the street to Sufra, one of the best restaurants in town, and watch as the chef prepares bread in clay ovens while you tuck into a delicious traditional feast.
There is no better way to experience the friendliness and warmth of Jordanian culture than during a cooking class at Beit Sitti, or, “Grandmother’s House”, a small business run by three sisters who employ local women to help teach the classes, providing them with an income and entrepreneurial experience. During the experience, each cook shares secrets of her family’s recipes, telling stories to help you understand and connect with the local culture and the food itself. If you are a wine enthusiast, pair the Beit Sitti experience with a visit to JR wines’ tasting room where you can sample the distinctive terroir, created by basaltic lava that poured across the region over 2000 years ago. Another must when exploring the culinary delights of Amman is the kunafa, a local sweet pastry hailing from Palestine and sold in numerous shops and market stalls. For the best in town, try Habibah’s in downtown Amman — we suggest enjoying these delicacies as you stroll the bustling souks just before sunset when the streets come alive with activity.
Elegant Retreats in Amman: The Perfect Pairing for Unique Adventures
Amman has the best choice of luxury hotels, making it the perfect base for tours to surrounding areas. For understated luxury and an incredible brasserie serving updated French classics and Jordan’s first farm-to-glass bar menu, the Four Seasons Hotel Amman is a top choice. Or, to experience Jordanian traditions and locally created artworks, opt for The St. Regis Amman, home to the eponymous legendary bar. For something truly unique, stay at the W Amman — located on the Boulevard, amid the city’s best shopping, restaurants, bars, and museums, the hotel’s entrance crosses a breathtaking recreation of the Siq canyon in Petra. The W suite will take your stay to the next level, with floor-to-ceiling windows bathing you in natural sunlight as you sit and relax on plush sofas or enjoy a game of pool surrounded by modern Jordanian design.
Historical Treasures: Exploring Jerash near Amman
Whether you’re a history buff, budding photographer, or food enthusiast, Jerash is a hidden gem with so much to offer. Let your guide and driver whisk you away from Amman on a three-hour tour, entering the city through the imposing Hadrian’s Arch before heading to the South Theater, where Scottish bagpipers take to the ancient stage, backdropped by the dramatic cityscape. Thanks to my guide, Issam, I was lucky enough to play the drums of the bagpipers before taking a private transfer straight to my table at Um Khalil restaurant, like a true star of the stage. I sampled the traditional sambousek, a special dough stuffed with meat and onion and then deep fried: similar to empanadas, but better! Sharing this meal with Issam and Yamen, my driver, is what made this experience incredible — coupled with the refined service, exceptional coffee, and an incredible muhallabia, a panna cotta-style dessert topped with pistachios.
Exploring Natural Wonders and Sacred Sites near Amman
From April to October choose to stop in Wadi Mujib for some heart-stopping canyoning — the best time of year for this as the weather is more temperate and the water levels are at their best. For an equally rewarding but lower-octane experience, visit Mount Nebo and Bethany, the sacred mountain from where Moses viewed the Promised Land, and the site of the baptism of Jesus by John. With all these incredible places to discover in Jordan, by staying in the capital of Amman, rest assured that you will experience the very best of this sublime country.
Relaxation at the Dead Sea: Floating in Tranquility
To escape reality while floating in pure tranquility, make a trip to the Dead Sea. Head out first thing before the crowds arrive and the sun becomes too hot. On the way back to Amman, stop in Madaba for a spot of shopping: The Mosaic House Art also offers classes and workshops that take inspiration from the great heritage of mosaic making — plus, they offer free international shipping. After perusing the intricate mosaics, dine at Ayola on a comforting bowl of fakhara, a decadent and traditional Palestinian cheesy stew topped with dough that seals in the sweet flavors as it’s cooked in an earthenware pot. For a more leisurely lunch, stop at Haret Jdoudna and explore the fascinating history of this restored Ottoman house, which also has an array of handcrafted souvenirs for sale.
Unveiling Petra: Exploring the Ancient City
Jordan’s unmissable gem is, of course, Petra. Built in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataenas, who carved impressive structures from the soft stone cliffs, the ancient city was deserted following an earthquake in 555 BCE. For the most authentic and tranquil experience, set off in the morning and enter the ancient city on foot, walking along the spectacular gorge of Siq, before suddenly catching your first glimpse of the breathtaking Treasury. Adventurous travelers like me can enter Petra via a back way, starting in Little Petra, and taking an uphill hike through the Wadi Araba desert. Walking back down the 1000 steps to the monastery, I met a Bedouin woman who served me a refreshing tea as we took in the panoramic views. For lunch, savor local specialties at Basin restaurant and then head to the famous Cave Bar, whose walls are formed by part of a 2000-year-old tomb, to enjoy delicious cocktails amid hundreds of softly glowing lanterns. To experience Petra at its best, stay at the Movenpick Hotel, where every room offers understated luxury encased in a contemporary design inspired by the ancient city of Petra. A boutique dining experience awaits in a beautifully decorated dining room serving authentic Jordanian dishes, while the rooftop terrace is a delight in the fall and spring: perfect for gazing out over the ancient city and sipping a carefully crafted cocktail.
Desert Wonders: Journeying through Wadi Rum
Continue your otherworldly adventures amid the red dunes, towering rock formations, and expansive desert of Wadi Rum, whose landscapes have served as the set for movies like Prometheus and The Martian. Stay at Discovery Bedu, a hotel run on solar energy and perfectly tailored to blend in with the surroundings: choose between tented suites and desert lofts, my top choice. All offer the best luxury amenities and furnishings that connect you with this special part of the world. Memories Aicha Luxury Camp is a great choice for families, with a unique glass-domed tent offering panoramic views of the dunes and various activities to keep everyone entertained, from jeep tours to stargazing.
From Discovery Bedu, rise early and take to the skies in an unforgettable hot air balloon experience. Mesmerized, take in the sheer vastness of the desert and witness it transform from vibrant reds and oranges to deep pinks and purples before your eyes. Back on solid ground, enjoy a delicious breakfast at camp before exploring more of the enigmatic desert, such as the Seven Pillars of Wisdom and the Um Fruth Rock Bridge, rock formations that display the erosive forces of nature. At Burdah Rock Bridge, the highest natural arch in Wadi Rum, challenge yourself to an adventurous climb; and at Jebel Rum, traverse bulging crags, rugged pinnacles, and domed uplands to reach the summit with incredible views over the sweeping sands. To learn more about the region’s rich cultural heritage, discover the prehistoric petroglyphs inscribed on the walls of Khazali Canyon; and capture some envy-inducing photos to show your friends and family back home, head to the vibrant red sand dunes as they cast unusual shadows and colors across the desert at sunrise and sunset. Take a break from the sun and visit Lawrence’s Spring, named after Lawrence of Arabia, and breathe in the scent of the wild mint that grows amidst the ferns and trees.
Reflecting on the Journey: Insights and Reflections
As I gazed out across the dunes at sunset, entranced by the changing colors and dancing shadows, I felt a deep connection to nature, the past, and especially the people — all of which have given me a greater understanding of this amazing country and culture. I look forward to this new year with a determination to bring people together through authentic travel, offering you the chance to connect deeply with the world, as I did so unforgettably in Jordan.
