Exploring Timeless Türkiye: Journal of a Client’s Unforgettable Adventure
Sheena is a treasured Terracotta Travel client who has journeyed with us to Hawaii, Canada, the Caribbean, Colombia, Mexico, and now Türkiye. It’s a pure pleasure to help our clients discover the world, and each time they travel we get to know them more. In this delightful article, Sheena shares her favorite experiences and insider tips from her time with us in Istanbul, Cappadocia, and the Aegean and Mediterranean Coast.
Every single day I remind myself to be grateful for the lives we have, for every breath and every step we are lucky enough to take in this tiny little world of ours. Travel helps me foster this gratitude, and my recent trip to Türkiye was no exception.
A culture filled with historical influences from the Mughal period and even further back to the nomadic Anatolian lifestyle, Turks were around long before the Ottoman Empire. While many follow the Islamic faith, their language and belief system is relatively unique and spans the entire Silk Road — far beyond the borders of modern-day Türkiye.
The enduring treasures of Istanbul: Where East Meets West
Istanbul is simply quite magical. A sprawling metropolis with a population of around 19 million, it is the only city to span two continents, Asia and Europe, and has been central to three major empires — the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman. Today it remains infused with influences from East and West — from traditional arts and crafts like pottery and weaving, to food that incorporates both Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors to spectacular effect. Just remember that when shopping for ceramics, it’s best to buy them in Cappadocia if you’re visiting.
Home to numerous UNESCO-listed sites, Istanbul boasts a stunning blend of imperial influences in its architecture. Ornate historical buildings have been repurposed as museums and hotels, and palaces are open for travelers to bask in their breathtaking splendor. The Basilica Cistern is the most famous of several large Roman cisterns, which were used to store water. More recently, the dazzling subterranean space has provided the backdrop for films such as Inferno, based on Dan Brown’s book of the same name.
Wherever you are in Istanbul, you’re never far from a soaring minaret. Home to around 2000 mosques, as well as 600 churches and 50 synagogues, the city is awash with wonderful religious buildings. The recently reopened Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque are must-visits, as are Topkapi Palace, the royal residence of Ottoman Emperors, and Dolmabahçe Palace, Türkiye’s largest palace. Beyond these famous sites, there are plenty of hidden gems to discover by just wandering around — my guide, Cenk, was truly wonderful in this regard, adapting the tour to my needs and allowing plenty of time for leisurely breaks. One of my favorite spots was one tucked behind the Spice Market, so having a passionate tour guide to take you away from the tourist traps is priceless.
Cenk took me to the Asian side of the city, which I loved. The district of Nişantaşı is a favorite local haunt and home to Abdi İpekçi Caddesi, the Turkish equivalent of 5th Avenue, lined with chic boutiques and hip cafes lined up along its sides. Istanbul really sets the bar for maintaining historic buildings while making space for modern day services: vibrant cafes abound on both sides, so it’s definitely worth factoring in some people-watching time over a herbal tea (or Turkish coffee, if your taste buds are up for it — it’s very strong!).
Experiencing a hammam is an absolute must while in Türkiye, even if you’re a prude like me when it comes to being naked in front of strangers. After three hours of constant pampering at the authentic Hurrem Sultan Hamami, I walked out feeling like Princess Jasmine!
Falling in Love with Cappadocia: Anatolia’s Mesmerizing Past
My main reason for visiting Cappadocia was to experience a scenic balloon ride — which was indeed wonderful, especially as the sun rose over the iconic landscape. But I fell in love with the treasures this region has to offer, and would encourage anyone visiting Türkiye to include it in their itinerary and stay for at least two nights to explore some truly authentic Anatoilian history.
I stayed at the Museum Hotel, which was absolutely out of this world. Thanks to its unique design, I was completely immersed in the ancient cave dwelling culture while enjoying the plush luxury of my vast suite. Decorated with gorgeous artisanal rugs in the local style, it featured beautiful wooden furniture, a stone corner fireplace, stunning stained glass windows, and intricate stucco details. The huge, ornate bathroom was made of pure marble offset by dazzling mosaics and provided an indulgent setting for relaxing after a long day exploring. Best of all, though, was the terrace and sweeping panoramic views of Cappadocia’s awe-inspiring landscape.
Kapadokya, as it’s locally known, is right in the middle of modern day Türkiye, and throughout history has been the crossroads of Anatolia — which, incidentally means ‘where the sun rises.’ Its soft, volcanic rock has been shaped into incredible cave houses and underground cities, and its valleys are full of vibrant natural rock formations. I loved hiking through the Rose and Red Valley, which was full of cave homes and otherworldly fairy chimneys.
I was fascinated by the underground cities, which were built for storage and temporary protection from passing armies. The biggest, Kaymakli, is 4000 years old at the surface, with deeper layers built by the Christians in the 5th and 6th centuries CE. My amazing guide, Özgül, who became a friend, took me to see this incredible network of zigzag tunnels, which have small potholes to guide people who stooped low to find their way. The tunnels were carefully designed and blocked on both sides, and had heavy circular stone doors with windows that reminded me of the Viet Cong tunnels in Vietnam. They stored grains and wine here, and Linseed oil was used to cook as it burns without smoke. It’s amazing what the imagination can conjure to survive! Go early in the morning to beat the crowds; and if you get overwhelmed underground there are smaller tunnels you can pop into, such as Ozkanak.
There were a couple of activities on my Terracotta itinerary that you simply have to try in Cappadocia, especially if traveling with children. Pay a visit to Kapadokya Seramik, which has been running for six generations using traditional 11th-century methods and offers a demonstration from the master potter — as well as the chance to try it yourself. What I loved most is that they weren’t pushy for sales at all: they are passionate about continuing an elegant art form that has since been replaced by cheaper materials and machinery. That said, you will probably want to purchase something!
At Kapadokya Ebru Sanat Evi, watch experienced artist and owner Güler Somtürk as she demonstrates the mesmerizing art of marbling on paper and silk scarves, an ancient calligraphy style that originated with the Seljuks to design covers for Korans and scrolls. Again, you don’t have to buy anything — although if you’re anything like me, you won’t be able to help yourself.
Lastly, I was deeply moved by the whirling dervishes who perform at Saruhan Caravanserai, a historical stopover for horses and traders as they walked the Silk Road. The hypnotic dance is a form of prayer for the Anatolian Allavites, who use it to connect to the universe — so you have to remain quiet and respectful, including refraining from taking photos. It’s not an ‘entertaining’ show by any means, but as a lover of dance and yoga I personally found it incredibly powerful. I would recommend it if you enjoy learning about others’ spiritual beliefs.
From Alaçati to Bergama: Delving into Turkey’s Rich Heritage on the West Coast
It was important for me to see some of the historic sites on Türkiye’s west coast, but first I was spellbound by the beachside town of Alaçati, which I visited on a day trip from Izmir. Quaint and charming, it’s full of cobbled streets, picturesque cafes, trendy bars, boutique stores, and plenty of spots for soaking up the local culture. I can’t wait to go back and spend a weekend there!
The cities that developed on the western coast of Türkiye were mainly influenced by the Greeks, and later the Romans and Byzantines. Ephesus is popular with tourists, but for good reason, and is definitely worth a visit. Originally built in the 7th century BCE and designed by the Lycians, Ephesus was expanded during the Hellenic period, before the Romans and Byzantines added their own layers. It’s a wonderful blend of styles; I particularly loved the mosaics and colors in the old houses, and the library structure was truly magnificent — it reminded me a little of Petra. My top tip for visiting the main ancient site is to wait until the afternoon, when all the cruise passengers have departed.
Pergamum, the second site I visited, was founded in the 4th century BCE. Originally featuring a Hellenic style, it was later influenced by the Romans. The ruins are great to see, especially the panoramic views from atop the hill, but the town of Bergama was a totally unexpected hidden gem: quintessentially Ottoman with cobbled streets and terracotta rooftops that evoke the warmth and enduring qualities of Terracotta Travel itself, the experiences they create, and the inviting destinations they offer. You’ll see several cafes with elderly residents gathered playing games, chatting, and enjoying a slower pace of life — one of my favorite photos caught a guy taking a nap on the table in the middle of the afternoon! A cute cafe called Hesna is the perfect place to perch and watch the locals go by.
From Lycian Ruins to Mediterranean Coastal Bliss: Exploring Fethiye and Beyond
I ended my trip by the warmth of the Mediterranean Sea at Fethiye. Between there and Antalya was home to the Lycians, one of the oldest known civilizations, dating back to 10,000 BCE. They had one of the most sophisticated unions in history that included representatives of all social classes, including women.
When you’re at a beach destination it’s easy to simply lounge by the sea, but I recommend venturing out to explore the area. Kayaköy is home to the incredible ruins of a 13th century Greek city which was inhabited right up until 1923, when the forced migration of Greeks and Turks led residents to abandon it. Since then, it’s been frozen in time and is a fascinating place to explore. At Ölüdeniz, take a day-long hike following the start of the Lycian Way, which boasts gorgeous views of the beach. It’s also the country’s most popular spot for paragliding in Turkey. If you prefer a less active ascent, there’s also a cable car to the top. And finally — if you love eating fish, have a meal in the center of the fish market. I recommend Hilmi restaurant: the best part is you pay the fishermen directly, so it’s a great way to support the local community.
Overall I had a truly incredible experience of Turkish culture and can honestly say I will come back. It’s such a fascinating place with important history, and the people are so warm and friendly. I felt safe and welcomed everywhere I went (a young woman working at a coffee shop spent 20 minutes picking splinters out of my hand, out of pure kindness).
I highly recommend a visit to this wonderful part of the world, and am grateful to Anna and the team at Terracotta for creating such an authentic and personalized journey. Terracotta goes above and beyond to understand my preferences, visualizing my dream trip and working closely with me to make it come true. Unlike off-the-shelf luxury travel, Anna curates the best of the country based on your desires, and she is uniquely dedicated to understanding Terracotta clients’ DNA. By getting to know me on a deeper level, Anna has earned the right to be my number one choice when it comes to planning a trip. She invests in the relationship and tailors every aspect of the trip — ensuring an authentic experience that resonates, every time.
