Hidden Greece: Uncovering the Secrets of Zagori
Our intrepid content lead, Natalie Holmes, shares exciting discoveries from her recent trip to Northern Greece.
Greece is one of my all-time favorite destinations. From the quaint towns and turquoise coastlines of the islands to the ancient wonders and hip party districts of Athens, the country’s offerings are impressive. But it’s not just these material aspects that make it so special to me: Deep down, it’s the people. Wherever I go in Greece, there’s a warmth and open-heartedness that shines through, rounding off the natural and historical treasures with a spirit of human connection. And don’t even get me started on the food.
With this backdrop of enthusiasm, I embarked on a field trip to Zagori in the northwest, to uncover the secrets of this little-known region. What I found was truly incredible: Ancient monasteries with 400-year-old frescoes, spectacular tri-arch bridges, and storybook cobblestone villages. On top of all that, it’s home to some extraordinary geological formations, including one of the world’s deepest gorges.
Pristinely-preserved culture
To understand what makes Zagori unique, a quick history lesson is required: When the Ottomans expanded their empire across Greece in the 1400s, the so-called Koinon of the Zagorisians, which comprises part of what is today Zagori, was able to remain autonomous. It was so difficult to access, that instead of occupying the region, the Ottomans came to an agreement with the local population and left them alone in exchange for collecting taxes.
So while the rest of Greece was subject to over 400 years of Ottoman rule, Zagori is a pocket of authenticity where architecture, culture, and traditions have continued uninterrupted throughout the area’s 46 stone villages. While many were destroyed during WWII and rebuilt using imported stone, a number of buildings feature the original materials mined from local rock faces several hundred years ago. Thanks to faithful restoration, the sleepy villages today retain an ancient atmosphere of captivating charm.
Among the peaceful, narrow streets of Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo, beneath the shadow of mighty Mount Tymfi, I came face to face with horses wandering free and grazing in a churchyard. In Monodendri, my expert guide, Apostolis, led me to the 15th century monastery of Agia Paraskevi, carved into the rock and overlooking the breathtaking Vikos Gorge. In Koukouli, Apostolis showed me another hidden gem: the Botanical Museum of Kostas Lazarides, a perfectly-preserved house frozen in time for over 100 years.
Another unique feature of Zagori is its collection of spectacular arched bridges, each a feat of engineering and craftsmanship. Held together solely by the laws of physics, the bridges are as solid today as the time they were built over 200 years ago. Featuring three arches of equal size, the majestic Bridge of Plakidas is one of the most iconic in the region. When I visited in October, the riverbed was dry, but during the spring and summer the single-arched Kokkoris Bridge creates a perfect circle with its reflection in the turquoise waters beneath.
Extraordinary nature
Occupying part of the Pindus Mountain Range, Zagori is full of peaks and valleys connected by narrow winding roads. A section of the region is a UNESCO Global Geopark, which includes Mt. Smolikas, the second highest mountain in Greece at over 2600 meters above sea level, as well as the two gorges of Vikos and Aoos, and a 2500-meter-high elevated karstic field.
A true highlight of my trip was picnicing on an upper ridge of Vikos Gorge, gazing down into a vertiginous view of the valley and dramatic rugged edges. While the status of the gorge as the world’s deepest in relation to its width is contested, it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the experience of simply being there.
The karstic landscape, too, is like nothing I’ve ever witnessed. Layers of limestone created millions of years ago on the ocean floor have been unevenly eroded, today towering like stone trees between the elms and oaks. Another delightful quirk of this geology is the Papigno rock pools, a series of natural pools carved into a kind of human-scale canyon. In summer when the water levels are high, the pools are transformed into a stunning bathing area where locals come to relax and cool off.
Though I was traveling out of season and many riverbeds were dry, I was thankful for the Voidomatis River, which flows year-round and is Europe’s cleanest waterway. Lush, calm, and surrounded by fragrant forest, the river is perfect for hiking, canyoning, and rafting from spring all the way through to fall.
Where to stay
Perched on a hillside at the edge of the pretty village of Aristi, the Aristi Mountain Resort is a haven of rustic luxury and tranquility, embodying the best of Greek hospitality. Created to fit harmoniously into the surroundings, the hotel’s buildings are all made of stone and feature exceptional craftsmanship. Jaw-dropping views across Mount Tymfi are visible from almost every part of the hotel, from the jacuzzi and indoor pool to the restaurant terrace, as well as most rooms and suites.
I was constantly dazzled — especially at sunset, when the layered landscape turns a gold-tinged pink. Groups can stay in secluded luxury at the separate villa, set in the hotel’s micro-farm gardens, and there’s even an outdoor kitchen terrace for summertime cooking classes with panoramic views.
