Soulful Sicily: A Transformative Travel Journal
How our content lead, Natalie Holmes, discovered the healing power of Italy’s enchanted island during a week long research trip
To say that travel can be transformative is something of a cliché these days, and yet when I reflect on my time in Sicily I can conjure no more suitable word. I arrived on Italy’s largest island after a month volunteering at a refugee camp in Greece. The experience had taken an emotional toll and while I knew I was on the road to recovery, it seemed that the road would be long and winding. By the end of the week-long trip, however, I was unrecognizable — positively overflowing with gratitude and a sense of wellbeing. And what’s more, this wasn’t a temporary peak — the effects have endured.
When I look back on my time in Sicily, I puzzle over its healing power. Was it the unseasonably cool May sunshine, the warmth of the people I met, the incredible food, the crystalline coastline and breathtaking mountains? It’s impossible to say for sure — but I can only conclude it was a magical mixture of those things.
Having explored almost every corner of the island, I’ve created this guide to the most exciting and engaging experiences and indulgent, authentic places to stay.
Join us on a journey through Sicily’s top 5 treasures.
1. Palermo: Dazzling layers of history, culture, and gastronomy
The island capital is a vibrant urban hub, where contemporary Sicilian culture squeezes up against thousands of years of history. One of the best ways to get to the heart of Palermo is through its food. On an immersive gastronomy tour, our effervescent guide led us through the vibrant streets of Capo Market, where vendors ply their trade in fragrant fruit and vegetables, freshly caught fish, and cured meats. As the bustle of the market swirled around us, we sat down at a small restaurant to sample local delicacies like eggplant stuffed with cheesy penne pasta, spinach and egg tart, chicken skewers wrapped in prosciutto, tangy caponata, and warm bread straight from the oven.
Thanks in part to its strategic location between continents, Sicily has been occupied and influenced for thousands of years by a staggering number of peoples, from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the Romans to the Spanish — as well as a significant period under Islamic rule, which culminated in an informal power-sharing agreement with the Normans and a fascinating Norman-Arab-Byzantine culture that is visible across the island today. Perhaps the pinnacle of this heritage is Monreale Cathedral, a striking structure set atop a hill in what was once a small village and today a suburb of the sprawling modern metropolis. Built by William II of Sicily in 1182, the UNESCO-listed site is said to be one of the best examples of Norman architecture, with an interior covered in gold mosaics and detailed decoration that spans Arabic, Byzantine, and Catholic design tropes. Outside, the narrow streets open up to a spectacular view of the city and the turquoise half-moon of Mondello Bay beyond.
Overnight in a Palermo palazzo: Palermo’s reigning monarch of hotels, the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, has recently been taken over by acclaimed luxury hotelier Rocco Forte and is undergoing renovation until summer 2020. Set directly on the shore, the listed palazzo has hosted royalty and celebrities over the past century, and the grand reopening promises to reveal that timeless splendour afresh. As the sun set over the Gulf of Palermo, we savored traditional Sicilian aperitivo on the pretty patio.
2. Pantelleria: Understated island exclusivity and volcanic eccentricity
A tiny mound of volcanic rock rising up from the unforgiving Mediterranean Sea just 45 miles from the shores of Tunisia, Pantelleria is a distinctive destination that feels truly undiscovered, with down-to-earth restaurants, distinctive vineyards, and an otherworldly igneous landscape. From the small windows of the propeller plane, the island appears from the deep azure, its black shores giving way unexpectedly to a ring of bright blue and white encircled by lush, verdant terraces. Shortly after landing, we were escorted to Lago di Venere — a lake turned cobalt blue by volcanic minerals.
On this remote and rocky outpost, life is ruled by the wind, with buildings and farmland sculpted close to the ground as if crouching in deference to the power of nature. Pantelleria’s viticulture has recently been recognized by UNESCO as unique in the world, the stubby vines and volcanic soil combining to create deliciously distinctive wines. At Coste Ghirlanda winery, we drank in views of the rolling vineyards dotted with dammusi — the island’s traditional, Arabian-influenced squat stone houses — and the unique flavor of the winery’s smooth, mineraly vintages. Standing among endless vineyards as the fierce wind sent cinematic clouds over my head, I wondered what life must be like for the people who call this island home — to be constantly reminded of your smallness. Something inside me was shaking loose, and I began the slow process of letting go.
Rest your head in an indulgent oasis: A destination in itself, Sikelia is an arabesque labyrinth of luxury tucked behind a towering bronze door. Its rooms and suites are crafted in the traditional architectural style with whitewashed arches, subtly domed roofs, and lava-grey polished stone interiors. I still dream about Sikelia’s silence and my deep, blissful sleep.
3. Valley of the Temples: Pristine Ancient Greek treasures
Intriguingly, the UNESCO-listed Valley of the Temples is not set between mountains. ‘Valley’ is a misnomer that derives from the Arabic word for district — and despite the relatively flat terrain, the site is truly impressive. At 1,300 hectares, it’s the largest archeological site in the world, home to a set of Ancient Greek Doric temples dating back to the fifth century BC. Built in local limestone, the temples have become a sandy beige color that contrasts with the white marble of their more famous Athenian counterparts, adding to the strangeness and magic of the scene. The centerpiece is the Temple of Concordia, which, along with the Parthenon, is considered the best preserved Doric temple in the world.
From the archeological site, we passed through a small gate into Kolymbethra Gardens, where we sat in the shade of fragrant fruit trees for a picnic lunch of local cured meats, cheeses, arancini, and chilled white wine. It was a Sunday, Father’s Day, and Marco, our caterer, smiled as he showed us photos of his wife and daughter while we marvelled at his warm, open-hearted hospitality.
Sleep beside the gods: Offering direct and exclusive access to the Valley of the Temples, Villa Athena is unparalleled for experiencing the UNESCO World Heritage Site without the lines. The terrace, patio, and outdoor pool all boast uninterrupted views of the Temple of Concordia, and the interior is a minimalist, marble-infused sanctuary of luxurious rooms and suites.
4. Southeast: Noto’s baroque architecture and Siracuse’s seaside ruins
Smaller and less crowded than Palermo, Siracuse encapsulates Sicily’s rich culture and millennia of history. In the city’s ancient capital, Ortigia, the bustle of modern life takes place in the shadow of the 6th-century Temple of Apollo — the island’s oldest Doric temple. As our guide led us through winding streets, the Piazza Duomo opened up into a vast marble masterpiece where buildings from each century jostle for attention. Curious to see the towering baroque gem of Siracusa Cathedral, I stepped inside and realized a wedding was taking place. Transfixed for a moment, I watched the groom lean forward to kiss his bride at the altar, among the hidden columns of a temple built 2500 years ago.
Around 40 miles to the south and slightly inland, Noto is a small but perfectly formed city of exquisite Sicilian Baroque architecture in creamy-pink limestone rising against the solid blue sky. Entering the main thoroughfare through the 19th-century Porta Reale, grandeur unfurled in every direction and culminated in the beautifully restored 18th-century Noto Cathedral, which beckoned me to climb its staircase towards the heavens and into the cool sanctuary of its soaring white arches.
Immerse yourself in rural elegance: A pretty 10 minute drive from Noto through rolling agricultural land, Country House Villadorata comprises nine rooms sprawling among citrus, almond, and olive trees. Seamlessly fusing traditional Sicilian and contemporary Scandinavian design, the hotel’s exterior is dotted with cactuses and pared-down wooden furniture set against muted tones. Beneath a chic poolside terrace covered with bright pink and purple flowers, my guide and I dined on a lunch of grilled octopus as the biodynamic outdoor pool danced with inviting shades of turquoise and sand.
5. East Coast: Taormina’s hillside charm and bubbling Mount Etna
No visit to Sicily is complete without experiencing timeless Taormina and mythical Mount Etna. Founded in 358 BC, Taormina is famous for its glorious ancient Greek theater, characteristic regional architecture, and location on Mount Tauro with endless views of the coastline and mountains. Goethe declared his love for the town in the 17th century, and it’s been a renowned destination ever since, drawing visitors with its characterful mix of baroque churches, contemporary boutiques, and pretty piazzas. In its heyday in the early- to mid-20th-century, Taormina was a haven for gay men, who were suffering widespread persecution throughout Europe. In the famous Mocambo Bar, our guide shared tales of renowned celebrities and lonely travelers who united in this island of tolerance as the rest of the world lost its head.
When the day to explore Etna finally arrived, clouds rolled in and covered the landscape in mist. As we embarked on a hike across the black volcanic earth, trudging slowly through thinning fog before emerging on the edge of a small crater, our guide, a hopelessly enthusiastic and knowledgeable geology PhD, regaled us with stories from millions of years ago. Change, he said, is a fact of life, one of the only things we can be sure of. As if on cue, the clouds parted to reveal the vast and mighty Etna — two million years in the making and ultimately, gloriously impermanent.
Choose between two Belmond gems: You’re spoilt for choice in Taormina, with a Belmond property on the beach and another in the center — and a complimentary shuttle between the two. Perched on the shore overlooking Mazzarò Bay dotted with tiny boats, the historic Villa Sant’Andrea is a historic villa that’s been faithfully restored to its former 1920s Art Deco glory. Up in the heart of town, the Belmond Grand Timeo is a real showstopper, with shining parquet floors, soaring ceilings, colorful floral displays, and those ever-present views across the cliff-lined shore.
Connect with nature in Etna’s foothills: While Etna is easily reached from Taormina, to truly fall under the volcano’s spell, there’s no better base than Monaci delle Terre Nere. Immersed within its own fertile farmland, the rooms feature centuries-old lavastone walls and sumptuous floating beds, with each and every detail drawing inspiration directly from the surrounding nature.
Natalie Holmes is our Content Lead and is based in Berlin. A passionate traveler, she has journeyed solo across Latin America, volunteered at refugee camps in Greece (see photo), become a yoga teacher in India, learnt to surf in Portugal, and took a 1000-mile train journey across Europe with her dog. Wherever she goes, Natalie is driven to tell compelling stories that encourage meaningful and enriching exchanges.
