Treasures of Tangier
Join us as Natalie Holmes, our content lead, shares her firsthand experiences of soaking up the inimitable ambiance of this iconic metropolis.
Known as the gateway to Africa, Tangier is located at the point where the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean sea meet. An important trading post dating back to around the 10th century BCE, the city has been influenced by layers of civilizations and cultures over thousands of years. This prime position makes Tangier the perfect place to start or end your Moroccan adventure — indeed it was where I rounded off my wondrous trip through the country, which took in magical medinas and the spectacular Sahara.
In 1912, Morocco became a French protectorate, ushering in a period of colonial rule that lasted until 1956 when the country achieved independence. From the early 1920s, Tangier was a designated international zone, a status that emerged from an agreement to manage the competing interests of a number of European countries, as well as, after WWII, the US. As a result, the city was a hub for spies, especially during the height of the Cold War, and also became a playground for British and American artists and musicians, who reveled in its laid-back, international culture and ‘anything goes’ vibe.
Today, this vibrant and layered heritage shines through in Tangier’s contemporary cityscape, which glistens with mid-century glamor and a pleasant, irresistible nostalgia. Start your immersive Tangier tour in the exclusive neighborhood of La Grande Montagne, which is where the king of Morocco keeps one of his three homes in this city. At Perdicaris Botanical Garden, stroll among fragrant pine and eucalyptus trees and visit the onsite art museum, originally built by the eponymous Greek-American as a mansion for his wife, who benefited from the healing sea air.
Continue by car to the 19th century Lighthouse of Cap Spartel, where you can spot the definite line where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. On a clear day, climb to the top of the lighthouse and gaze across the water to see Spain. Nearby lies a spectacular stretch of Atlantic coastline — pack a beach bag if you’d like to dip your toes into the sand and sea, before heading back into town to explore the center on foot.
Tangier’s culture, food, and architecture benefits from a myriad of European and African influences, a legacy of its history as an ancient trading post and of course the more recent international zone. At the famous Cafe de Paris in the French area, locals and visitors alike sit and watch the world go by — fans of the Bourne films will recognise the backdrop from a well-known scene!
Then, at the nearby St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, which dates back to the late 1800s, meet passionate conservator Yassine, who shares stories of the famous people who lived and died in Tangier, and learn about the history of the church as a multi-faith place of worship before Morocco became a French protectorate. The building itself reflects religious tolerance and respect, with the knave facing east towards Mecca and the Lord’s Prayer inscribed in Arabic around the Moorish altar.
Some of Tangier’s most iconic 20th century hotels are still standing. Step back in time at the El Minzah and find out about all the artists and celebrities who stayed here back in the city’s heyday. At the beautiful Villa de France hotel, gaze up at the window from which Matisse painted Tangier’s ancient kasbah. Though relatively small, Tangier’s medina retains a charming, timeless atmosphere — pull up a chair and sip an iced coffee at Gran Cafe Central while engaging in some prime people-watching.
If you’re interested in the intersection of US and Moroccan history, don’t miss the American Legation Museum, originally a gift from the Moroccan sultan to the US in the 17th century to celebrate the special relationship between the two countries — Morocco was the first country to recognise US independence, and the first diplomatic building outside the US was the American Embassy in Tangier.
Saving the best for last, stroll up to Tangier’s 15th century kasbah, which was built by the Portuguese and comprises a fortress and residential area, stopping en route to gaze up at the rooftop of the former home of New York socialite and artist Barbara Hatton, who was charmed by Tangier’s multicultural atmosphere and laissez faire culture. Inside the kasbah, at the Ibn Battuta Museum, learn about the Moroccan explorer Ibn Battuta, his journeys and discoveries, and the cultural and natural wonders he reported on. An explorer to match or surpass Marco Polo yet rarely known outside the Arab world, Battuta first set off in 1325, traveled for 29 years, visited 38 countries, and traversed 10,000 kilometers.
Round off your day at the stunning Kasbah Museum, set in a building that was once home to the sultan, where you can discover artifacts from the building’s founding and stop to enjoy the cool breeze in the lush gardens. To fully immerse yourself in Tangier’s timeless style, opt to stay at La Maison de Tanger, tucked away on a quiet street just steps from the atmospheric Grand Socco and ancient medina. Intimate and stylish, the eight-room property combines the luxury of a hotel with the warmth and friendliness of a guesthouse.
Bedrooms and suites are tastefully decorated with mid-century modern furniture and Moroccan flourishes that evoke the pared-down indulgence of Tangier’s heyday, and some rooms feature a spacious terrace with sweeping city views. The secluded garden provides shade for the swimming pool, whose distinctive emerald tiles glisten in the afternoon sun. After a day exploring the magic of Tangier, return to your hotel to savor a traditional tagine and crisp glass of wine on the rooftop terrace as you revel in breathtaking views across the Strait of Gibraltar.
