The Koh Tao experience
I vaguely remember ending my last post on how everyone had told me how beautiful Koh tao was, and it was. Although, my first few days were a mixture of excitement and pain as the 1260 steps I climbed at the tiger cave temple in Krabi (the coastline I visited after Koh Phi Phi) had absolutely demolished my legs. Talk about missing leg day (in the gym for all you old people). I missed it for months and made up for it in a one day scramble up the mountainside steps to the viewpoint at the top, which was more than worth it. Every shade of green you can imagine glistened like emeralds reflecting the rays of the sun in a perfect contract to the fast paced city life that rushed chaotically by thousands of metres beneath. I took the opportunity to pray on the mountain, as great things happen up here! Ask Jesus..
In Koh Tao, my first night was a good one, arriving on a Friday to the “white Jail” hostel. (Pretty apt name if you ask me.. Just saying.) The Jamaican themed bar named “Baby Rasta” next door hosted a FREE bbq buffet which consisted, of grilled chicken wings, (can’t bring myself to say jerked) a massaman curry and white rice. It was an impressive take on caribbean food, I ate this in the upstairs area of the bar surrounded by hammocks with two girls I had just met in my dorm room. “Heyyyy Cata and Gee”. I ate the second plate (you knew that was coming) downstairs.
My second day in Koh Tao, my new roomies checked out to move to a new hostel, but we met up for breakfast and proceeded to go about our jam packed day, which consisted on laying on the beach for hours on end only pausing for food and toilet breaks but promptly returning to our 180degree reclining position as soon as the breaks were over. That evening we found a beautiful spot to sit and eat called “in touch”, though we’d missed the sunset. So we came back the following night and video’d the sunset whilst eating. (Check my Instagram @gorging.globally to see). We proceeded to come back the night after that, and the night after that. During our second day however we decided to hike up the winding mountain side to reach the “love @ Koh Tao” viewpoint, although the clouds had formed a sheet of translucent protection for the birds of the sky, we were still able to see a great view. All be it not as crystal clear as on a non cloudy day.
My legs felt like they were going to collapse with every step and made sure everyone knew it, by repeating “Gosh, my legs feel like they’re going to give way”, every hour or so. When we were on our way down, the pebbly/rocky road beneath us had become a had become a hazard, causing us to slip and catch ourselves now and then. Well, I caught myself before falling, one of my roomies laughed at me. She then walked over to me fanning her face with her hand whilst whispering. “Ooh, he’s a spice” about some guy who just walked past as I slipped. She then slipped was unable to catch herself and he saw, then proceeded to take his camera out to photograph as I helped her up.
The following day, (which I believe was the day before my last night on the island of Koh Tao) we decided to make the up and down journey of the mountain side to try out another beach called, “freedom beach” it was picturesque, from a distance. The water a little clearer, than “Sairee beach” that we’d been spending our time on, from a distance. I saw a collection of huge rocks which formed their own little island protruding out of the ocean. (See picture below)
Obviously, they looked perfect to sit on and take cool pictures. So I waded out into the water, popped my phone on the first rock so I could use both hands to climb up. I had noticed a seagulls nesting (mainly chicks with two adult birds guarding them on the tallest rock) but chose to ignore them and carry on climbing up. Mistake. I heard the “CAW” sound, and I thought “ooh, that sounded awfully close to my head” but I couldn’t see a bird so I continued in my attempt to climb. It was only an attempt. This time I heard the “CAW” as if it was next to my ear, and I realised the bird was trying to attack me, I screamed and grabbed my phone of the rock, and continued screaming all the way back to my towel on the shore. You know when you’re trying to punch in your dream and your fist just connects as though you’re punching through jelly. That was what it felt like running through the water, now imagine that whilst a bird is parading back and forth trying to attack your head. I mentioned that I was screaming all the way to my towel, I didn’t mention that my boobs had fallen out my costume as I was running and trying to hold both them and my phone. My scream had brought attention to everyone already, so I had whole beach watching me do the most unattractive bay watch scene you can imagine. With a few “ooooohs” and “oh, no’s” thrown in to add insult to injury. I really couldn’t care less. While my roomies and I laughed about this over dinner, me being me, said “It was trying to gouge my blooming eyes out.” To which Cata replied, “erm, it wasn’t an eagle, seagulls have webbed feet” we all laughed hysterically and I added “eagle, seagull, they both rhyme.” As we sat conversing over dinner, something dripped on my arm; to which I responded in jest by saying “oh it’s probably the seagull shitting on me to get revenge”, oh, how we laughed. Until I realised I had actually been shat on.
There was a very small amount of street food on the island of Koh Tao, but there was this one lady who sold chicken breast in breadcrumbs, with the best sweet chilli dip I’ve tasted in Thailand.
She also sold what I thought was triangular (sandwich shaped) chicken breast covered in breadcrumbs but with a cheese and ham filling, something like a Kiev. I asked her to make me a special one with only cheese filling (Rastaman nuh nyam swine) so I could take it to the airport with me. I was so excited to try it but it turned out to be a deep fried bread sandwich with shredded bits of chicken and lukewarm coleslaw. But obviously, I’m greedy so I had bought two and ended up throwing the second one away.
I’d decided that the cheapest and most efficient method to get me to Bangkok would be to take a sleeper ferry from, Koh Tao to Chumphon and then a bus from Chumphon to Bangkok. In typical Tesni fashion, I confirmed at the official ticket office where I would have to be to board my night ferry. He told me this was the correct port and pointed out which boat I would be getting on. “Brilliant” I thought. It was just a thought though.
My two new friends walked me to the ferry at just after 10 PM we walked straight off of the concrete ground to a stable ramp which enabled both cars and people to enter; we said our goodbyes and they departed. I stood in a short queue for a few moments whilst they checked tickets. A short podgy man outstretched his arms to look at mine before saying, “oh no, you’re on wrong boat”, he indicated that I should get on the next boat along, although it did have my destination printed in red on the front. KOH TAO — CHUMPHON. Thinking to myself, “well he should know”, I obediently listened and boarded the next boat with and equally as stable ramp as the first one. Only to be told this boat too was not for me. But they laughed as they read my ticket and instructed one of the workers to take me to my correct boat. As I walked along the pier, the worker walked past two ladies sat on the floor in minimal clothing, I had assumed they were working women as they were also drinking and smoking aimlessly. So I too went to walk past, but he instructed me to give them my ticket and I did, they tore off a part and handed one part back to me. From here I walked up to what I can only describe as a rickety fishermans ferry made completely of painted wood, unlike the two large ferries I had previously boarded. This one was much smaller and full of drunk workers. I only thought to myself, I hope the driver is not drinking and fortunately he wasn’t.
The other two ferries I had boarded using the ramps this one had no ramp. I had to throw them my backpack, across a two metre gap with waves smashing effortlessly beneath me. Then for my second stage of, total wipeout, takeshi’s castle (whatever you prefer) and then cling to a vertical wooden cylinder which had several rubber tyres on it, whilst swivelling around the tyres, which were in place only so you could climb from the pier onto the boat without falling in the sea, talk about health and safety. I didn’t even trust the outstretched hand which was there to assist me as the other hand had a beer in it. So I just swivelled around the pole and lowered myself onto the lower deck. I climbed up the wooden steps which I’m sure once had colourful paint on, but were now faded and peeling. As I reached the top deck I had expected to see some sort of secluded cabins with curtains in which I would sleep, but I was instead greeted with a 8 mattresses all pushed together making one big mattress, they were laid 4 by 2. Each mattress had a clean bed sheet, pillow with a clean pillow case and a blanket. We were literally sleeping with the fishes. At first I was really not best pleased. But then I realised, I was tired and was just happy to get some shut eye. I would say the wind was blowing through my hair but, well…. it was just pushing my Afro back and forth a bit. But the breeze was blowing all the same. It was really hot outside so it was just nature’s version of air con. I slept like a baby and arrived safe and sound in Chumphon.
*Fast forwarding a few hours* after spending the day shopping with two girls I had met on my minibus: It’s almost 11pm here in Bangkok, ive just whittled a tuk tuk driver down to 500THB from 1000THB to drop me at the airport. My flight isn’t until 7:55am (16th June), but sleeping at the airport for a few hours saves spending money on a hostel for the night. It’s 30degrees right now and the only thing stopping my forehead being prickled with beads of sweat is the breeze that is accompanying the G-force my face is currently experiencing. This week has been a very chilled one to say the least. That is until I got in this tuk tuk. There are definitely no hydraulics. It’s as if Mr. Pawan was given instructions before he pulled over to ask where I was going.
What is your name?: Mr Pawan, sir!
What is your mission?: Make sure my next customer leaves needing a full Thai massage and spine realignment, sir!
I arrived safely at the airport and was absolutely shattered, hence why this post is a little delayed. I got my self some chips from BK, and subsequently slept on one of the leather chairs in the BK, it was surprisingly comfortable, though I kept waking up to the sound of the cleaner sweeping, or spraying cleaning products near me. But here we are.. I’m now in Vietnam, I know. I surprised myself too. If you enjoyed this read, please give it a clap or 3000. Big hugs,
Tesni xx
Originally published at tesnithetastebudtraveller.blogspot.com
