Kristen Kish on shaping Arlo Grey, building a home, and collecting tattoos
This interview was originally published in the November 2, 2018 issue of The Slant, a weekly newsletter featuring Asian American news, media and culture. Want more features like this? Subscribe today for free.
You may remember Kristen Kish’s rise to fame after winning Season 10 of Top Chef in 2012. After serving as chef de cuisine for Barbara Lynch’s restaurants Stir and Menton in Boston, Kristen spent time hosting the Travel Channel’s pilot season of “36 Hours.” In 2017, she debuted her first cookbook “Kristen Kish Cooking: Recipes and Techniques,” and this past year, she opened her first restaurant Arlo Grey in Austin. After meeting Kristen at the Fulton Market Harvest Festival in Chicago, we caught up with her over the phone.
In your cookbook and in many of your interviews, you discuss what it was like being adopted by an amazing family, and because of your diverse community, you’ve never really felt out of place. In fact it wasn’t until you went on Top Chef and received an outpouring of support that you really even realized you were part of the Asian American community. Keeping all of this in mind, how do you feel about constantly being referred to as an “Asian American” chef?
You know, I think there are two sides. I think it’s all based on context — I don’t turn away from the titles and labels that are placed on me because those are all things that make up who I am. You know if anything, if it’s mentioned, and it’s in a way that is great or not great, then that’s a problem, but I honestly have never experienced a problem with that. Being referred to as an Asian American chef is just a fact. It doesn’t bother me whatsoever.
I was really moved after reading your interview with Bon Appetit when you said, “There’s this fondness I’ve always had for older Korean women. They’ll be like ‘I’m so proud of you’ and it just crushes me, in this really sweet way. I don’t want a Korean family, but we both know that there was another life that could have potentially happened. It’s the ‘what ifs?’ that get you.” Do you ever feel excluded by some of the common narratives that the Asian American community bonds over, like growing up with immigrant parents? Or do you think, “I don’t really connect with that since that wasn’t what I grew up with”? Or is it both?
It’s like hearing any other story to me — it doesn’t make me miss anything, and it doesn’t make me yearn for something else because that’s not my life. So when I hear of other different stories, it’s really just hearing other people’s different narratives that are interesting to me, regardless of whether it’s coming from someone of an Asian background or adoptive background, etc. It doesn’t sit in a negative space with me in any way.
In all honesty, I think about these things, but I don’t hold onto them. It’s kind of like “oh, had you picked College A over College B, what would the difference be?” It’s just not really that interesting to think about, you know? It’s that exact same kind of feeling.
This has been a huge year for the Asian community — though there is still a long way for representation in mainstream media and culture, Asian Americans are finally becoming a part of the conversation. How do you carry the weight of being one of few openly gay Asian women not only in the food industry, but also in mainstream media as a whole?
I don’t think about it. I think every single person has their own story, their background, their own narratives, and their own challenges and successes coming from who they are. A lot of these things aren’t focus points, and I don’t blame or credit any part for where I am to these labels today.
I love how you’ve managed to incorporate so many personal elements into your restaurant Arlo Grey — from the notebook pages you use as artwork, to the Korean Cinderella story that your mom read to you being played/displayed in the bathrooms, you’ve really poured your heart and soul into it. What dish are you most proud of?
Uh, that’s really hard, because every single dish on the menu has a reason, purpose, and story. It’s kind of like having to pick a favorite child. Honestly, whatever dish someone connects to or really enjoys just because they love the taste of it — at the end of the day, I make food for other people. I get joy and satisfaction out of feeding other people.
So any dish that someone likes or comes back, is surprised by, or finds comfort in — those are all my favorites. For me, again, because the menu has all purpose, not just one or two dishes that tell a story, all the dishes are there to work with each other. It would be hard to pick a favorite. A personal favorite.
I saw on Instagram that you recently started breakfast service, which you mentioned was out of your comfort zone. What are else are you hoping to conquer?
I just honestly hope to continue growing and finding a space that fits within the story, but also continues to be a challenge. I always like movement and growth, not even just with my food, but also with my cooks, staff, and front of the house. There needs to be constant growth, understanding and recognizing challenges in order to get there. So my hope really is that people continue to grow on a professional and personal basis, especially in my kitchen.
My goal for the restaurant in general is to create an environment where people thrive. Whether their end goal is to become a professional chef or not, I want them to be challenged and to understand their self worth and the importance that they hold in being in this space.
You’ve traveled the world and eaten at so many amazing places. What is your favorite restaurant or somewhere that you always find yourself thinking of?
For me, “best of” or “favorites” or “this is the #1”—it’s really hard for me to do that because everything needs to be considered in context. I could go to the same restaurant every single day and have an entirely different experience depending on my mood, if I’m tired, if I had a long or short day, who I’m dining with. And every single time you go—I mean food and service need to be great, but outside of that, really it’s about the environment.
You grew up in Michigan, went to culinary school in Chicago, started your career in Boston and New York, and now reside in Austin — where do you see yourself going next?
Austin is home for the foreseeable future. I’m always doing other projects on a personal basis outside of the restaurant, but for me my priority is this restaurant. We are still very new, we opened up in June. I’m not the type of person who stamps my name on it, and then walks away. It’s about building a team, building a family, and finding a space where everyone is thriving and falling into their positions.
And then obviously, yes, I would like to grow my business — both restaurant and personal — as I’ve done for so many years. It’s just about harmony and balance, but for the foreseeable future, Austin is my priority.
I did a bit of digging, and I saw that you made a cameo on Bravo’s Girlfriend’s Guide to Divorce?
I mean it’s cool! I like being pulled out of my comfort zone, and cameras in general, believe it or not, scare me sometimes. You throw a camera in front of my face and—my outside might seem cool—but my inside’s are like “OHMYGOD!” It’s fun though. I like doing fun things, meeting new and interesting people. It was a great day of filming, and something I don’t get to do everyday, which for me is something I find really exciting.
Back in 2014, you mentioned to Ink Magazine that you were considering getting a tattoo from your favorite artist Justin Bua. Since then you’ve gotten a whole new arm of tattoos — did get your Justin Bua piece yet? If not, what else have you added to your collection and what is the most meaningful piece to you?
I didn’t! No! (laughs) I think that was maybe—I don’t know. I’m an instant gratification kind of person. So when I come up with an idea for something, if I don’t have time right then, sometimes I’ll circle back to it. You know, had I probably had time to go three months after that, I definitely would have. But there was honestly no reason why I didn’t get it! Just timing.
Once I have an idea for one, I don’t get it out of my head, and I have to get it out. Otherwise, then, it’s kind of on to the next one. All my tattoos are very meaningful. Again, I’m not one, professionally or personally, to do anything without purpose.
My most recent tattoo though — I have lines in the shape of a human going down the back of my neck, and on the side of my neck I got the shape of the Austin River that moves into the shape of the Boston Charles River, to show how Austin and Boston are kind of connected to me.
