A Not So Great Free Sunset Cruise.
10:45 in the AM on a hot, cloudless Thursday morning. Perfect sailing weather; lucky for us as we are sailing today. We meet in front of a small shack which acts as both a convenient store and a travel agency. Fifteen minutes early as usual, better to be early than late, right? Not really all that necessary in a country that runs thirty minutes behind but what can we do, we’ve been hardwired by North America to be punctual. We drop our bags on the sidewalk in front of the shop and hand the store clerk cum travel agent our hand scribbled receipt that we received the day before. “Pipteen minutes, you wait here, buy snacks,” were the instructions given to us. Taking her orders we walk into the store and browse the two aisles of selections. After a quick scan we realize prices are overly inflated and we head outside to have a seat on the sidewalk. We had a small treat bag packed away and in any case lunch was included on the five hour boat trip.
After a few days of diving Japanese World War II wrecks in Coron, today we are heading to the town of El Nido some 200 kilometers away by boat. We sit outside the shop and daydream about the bays, featuring large limestone formations jutting out of the clearest of waters (well at least this is what the pictures on google promised us). As we sit there dozing off, groups of people start arriving; the tourists in taxis yanking out their rolling luggage and the travelers hauling their over-sized backpacks down the hill that connects the waterfront to the rest of the island.
By now almost an hour has gone by and we are still awaiting our departure. At this point all the Germans have found each other, the travelling families are in a circle together with their kids jumping around the middle and the backpackers are on one end. On a day like this you can’t even complain about a delay. The postponement only meant that we would be cruising into El Nido closer to sunset and who doesn’t want a free sunset cruise?
Not soon after two taxis roll up to the store. Bags are either stuffed into the trunk or tied on the roof and each five-seater is filled with at least seven. The convoy of two vehicles pass through the city and onto dirt roads lined with coconut trees, water on one side and fields on the other. A short uncomfortable ride later, we arrive to a small dock. Tied to it is our vessel for the afternoon, a small wooden catamaran called a Bangka in the Philippines, which clearly looked like it would not hold fourteen. Talks arose but no one really protested as we all wanted to get to our destination today. Southeast Asia had gotten us yet again!
Luggage was loaded in first, followed by its human counterpart. Minutes later we were unanchored and on the water, clearly trying to make up for the lost time. The seating was not the most comfortable, all of us squished in on parallel wooden benches, but the surrounding scenery made up for it. The crew of three middle aged men didn’t say much to the passengers during most of the ride, we figured they were the brawns of this transportation operation. The captain did mention one thing at the beginning of the ride that did worry me a bit though. “If the coast guard asks, we are going to Beni Island”. From what I remembered from the map of the area, Beni Island was nowhere near where we were supposed to go. Hmmm…oh well, nobody else seemed to pay this any attention. After the first 3 hours of steering through calm waters, enjoying our new companions this worry was all but gone.
It wasn’t till after we had moved away from the Northern Palawan Islands and well into the Linapacan Strait that the sense of uneasiness rose along with the waves around us. By now over four hours had elapsed, the conversations died and everyone hoped that every island on the horizon was our destination. The crew gave us no real indication of our location, only pointing out that we should be arriving soon. Smiles returned once the prepared lunch started to be passed out but they were quickly overturned once the disappointing plates consisting of a scrawny chicken drumstick with a side of cold steamed rice reached us.
We passed the six hour mark. Looking around it seemed like we were in the middle of a vast ocean, no land in sight. Worry swept over all the passengers along with the waves that were well over a meter high at this point. Ginger pills got dispensed by one of the better prepared among us and the seasick prone took seats on the outside of the boat ready to retch on a moments notice. The day came to a close and everyone got their sunset cruise but not quite the one they had imagined. The wind got stronger and the waves bigger. With the sun gone the splashes of water were no longer pleasant. Everyone huddled closer to the center of the boat trying to avoid the splatter of water which easily made it over the bow by now. For over an hour we rode on surges that made our little Bangka look like something that was made out of popsicle sticks. The creaking wood of the boat frame did nothing to calm anyone, yet based on the look on the captain’s face, it seemed like this was an everyday affair. Water was starting to flood the bottom where our bags were stowed but there was nothing we could do except hope that it wouldn’t advance much.
Nine hour pass. By now everyone has discharged whatever was left of their lunch from their stomachs. Pestering the crew, we came to realize that there were no electronics on board aside from a flashlight and a walkie-talkie; a walkie-talkie that was out of communication range. Everyone on board was prepared for the worst, it was only a matter of time till our twig boat either snapped in half or took on too much water. The only good news was that at least the boat had enough life jackets for everyone on board; these got put on in a hurry as soon as they were handed out. Emergency plans were starting to be discussed but we were all hoping that it would not need to be used. Besides, what would have we done anyway?
Lucky for all, there was no real need for the life vests. Not soon after our evacuation chatter an island appeared on the horizon; our destination. As we approached land, the water calmed down along with everybody on board. Sitting quietly, all necks pointed upwards at the discovery of stars that had been there all along but had gone unnoticed. For the first time in hours the ride had become pleasurable again.
