Stories From Serbia: A Bulgarian Experience, Along The Train Tracks

Edward Crawford
The Coffeelicious
Published in
3 min readMay 3, 2017
A young man from Afghanistan wraps up in a UNHCR blanket to keep warm. The Barracks, Belgrade, Serbia. April 2017.

Along the train tracks is an abandoned building where a group of refugees from Afghanistan have sought refuge on their journey to western Europe. I spoke to many Afghan refugees on the afternoon this photograph was taken. One story stood out both as typical and compelling. The gentleman wished to remain anonymous. This account cannot be independently verified.

I worked for the western forces in Afghanistan as a driver. I was pleased to have the opportunity, the money was good and I was happy to work with western people. I used to drive trucks and supplies to different bases across Afghanistan. When the western forces pulled out of Afghanistan, I found myself unemployed.

After six months I found a job in a local market shop. The Taliban came to me and said, “We know you worked with the west. You are a western spy. You have three choices. Give us €20,000 and we will leave you alone, join us on Jihad or we will kill you.”

I knew I had to leave. I paid a smuggler €7000 to get me from Kabul to Berlin. I went with a group of 20 people. Together we were passed from one smuggler group to the next from desert to jungle and from mountains to roads. We passed through Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, Bulgaria and then into Serbia. Some of the group were unlucky and the smugglers took them from Bulgaria to Macedonia, adding more expense to their journey.

I ended up stuck in Turkey for 6 months and 3 months in Bulgaria. Turkey was ok, we could work and the people were fine with refugees. Bulgaria was the worst. I had never imagined people could be so cruel. They beat us so badly when they caught us crossing the border and then locked us away in a closed camp for 3 months. As soon I was transferred to an open camp I left and walked for 2 days to get to Serbia. I used GPS on my phone to know the direction and walked by night, sleeping in the day. I had to hide from the civilians and police in case I was caught and either robed or sent back to a camp.

So I have made it this far. Ok Bulgaria was shit and they were horrible but I’m here in Serbia and Serbian people are so kind to me. When I think back to the Taliban saying “You must join Jihad and kill non-Muslims” it makes me laugh even more now. Back in Afghanistan I was friends with the western people. It’s not like we just worked together, we were friends. I spent many afternoons with British and American guys relaxing, drinking tea and talking.

The hate spread by the Taliban is just based on bad education and poor knowledge of Islam. Anybody who is educated and understands Islam knows it is about peace. The idea of disliking non-Muslims is stupid. Just look at my situation.

In Serbia the people and volunteers are all non-Muslims. I came here and these non-Muslims who don’t know me and don’t owe me anything have given me food, water, clothing and showed me love. I am grateful to Serbia and all the Serbian people, volunteers and aid workers who spoke to me like a human and helped me.

I want to go to France or Germany. I want to work for a few years, pay taxes, send money back to my family and then go back to Afghanistan as soon as possible. I love my country and I want a democratic Afghanistan with no Taliban.

February 2017.

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Edward Crawford
The Coffeelicious

Edward Crawford is a photojournalist currently covering the refugee crisis in the Balkans. @vicenews @DW @coffeelicious www.edwardcrawford.com