The Wurst is Yet to Come

In Vienna late at night, there are very few places still open where you can get something to eat. By default, hot dog stands are often crowded because most of them serve 24/7. That means at three AM you’re likely to see an interesting array of people hanging around them, especially the stands in the center of town where most of the bars and night life is. German/Austrian wurst is the best in the world and there is something unique about eating a bratwurst or frankfurter with slap-in-the-face sharp mustard in the middle of a winter’s night while standing at a high counter next to a bum or a drunk on one side of you, a couple dressed in a tuxedo and an evening gown on the other side. A few nights ago I was having a midnight snack with a pal who is a wurstelstand devotee. We were both eating something disgusting and wonderful called kasekrainer (big grilled sausage with cheese inside). While chatting, we didn’t notice our neighbors. Suddenly a stentorian, very formal voice said “That was absolutely delicious, as always. You have the best wurst in the world here! I am always happy to return!” Everyone at the stand looked and saw a very short old man dressed in a three piece suit, Trilby hat, and walking stick addressing the woman behind the counter. “Superb!” he thundered, saying the word the way the French do superb-eh. She smiled sort of, not really knowing if he was serious or not. The man turned to the person nearest him and demanded to know “Isn’t this a great wurstelstand?” All of us, every single one there, nodded.