5 Questions with Autumn Adamme, Founder and Executive Creative Director
Dark Garden Corsetry
Consider the corset. Such a tiny bit of clothing with such alluring power. Not only can it sculpt bodies in a most sensual way, but “people can’t keep their eyes off someone in a corset,” notes Autumn Adamme, proprietress of Dark Garden Corsetry in San Francisco. Well…yes. Guilty as charged! So what is it about this historical item that pulls us into its magical bosom—not to mention the Corsetry itself? Adamme shed some light for us on the world of corsets, her store Dark Garden, and the treasures therein.
1. What’s something about the history of corsets that not many people know?
I recently discovered something fascinating about the whalebone that was used for boning in most 19th century corsets. While I understood it was baleine, which is keratin, I didn’t fully understand that that meant the boning would soften up over the day’s wearing, meaning the corset actually became more flexible as the day went on, just like our fingernails do when we put our hands in warm water for any length of time.
2. What is a corset’s relationship to feminism?
I started wearing corsets publicly in the early 90s, when we were still determining that women could be strong and feminine at the same time. Corsets feel like armor. They genuinely make people feel more confident and self-assured—which to my mind is only a good thing.
Because I see beauty in everyone, Dark Garden has become a haven of inclusivity for people of all body types and aesthetic styles.
As we learn more and more about gender identification, masculinity, femininity, and fluidity, clothing will continue to help us define ourselves — sometimes by disguising us, sometimes by exposing us. Something I’ve always loved about corsets is that they convey so much in a relatively small space.
3. What place do corsets have in style today?
Corset style like personal style is always evolving. Lately, they’ve gone back under outer-garments as shape-wear for some people, though designers continue to show them on haute couture runways as evening wear. I love seeing how individuals incorporate corsets into their own approach to style, especially when they aid with a gender twist. I personally have a very feminine figure type, but I love wearing waistcoat-styled corsets with trousers and a hat for a tailored men’s wear look. Just recently we launched our Naturals collection — corsets available in eight skin tones and 11 sizes.
Models: Carolina Leon, Lindsay Ferguson, Jiz Lee, Allie Diane, Adrianna Marie, Miss If N’ Whendy, Cat Mitchell
4. What are some creative ways to wear a corset?
I wear corsets as the upper half of an ensemble, pairing them with skirts of many silhouettes, as well as fuller legged trousers. One of my employees wears her corset every day, and she looks great in skinny jeans as well as straight skirts. I like a short jacket with a corset as I’m not always ready for the attention just a corset *always* garners me, but when I’m prepared, I jump right in. People can’t keep their eyes off someone in a corset. I also love a really beautiful corset under an outfit, a secret for myself and my partner.
5. What are some of your favorite things in your store right now, at different price points?
Dark Garden associate designer Kalico Delafay’s delightful lace crowns, curious fascinators, and whimsies created especially for Ball attendees—and her up-cycled fur collars; Pop Antique’s fascinators and clever hairbows. As usual, we have tons of wonderful corsets, sparkly jewelry and evening bags, Spanish fans, and accompanying garments by Dark Garden, Unique Vintage, and Carruchi, historically informed makeup and fragrance by Besamé, and a selection of luxurious wraps and robes. Additionally, in July, we welcomed Revelation in Fit, a bra-fit specialist into Dark Garden. They offer 160 bra sizes and an array of styles so we genuinely have something for everyone under one roof.
Bonus question! What do you love about the Edwardian Ball?
I LOVE how creative the attendees are, that they bring their curiosity and imagination along with them to the event and really participate in co-creating the most whimsical and delightful evening possible. I’ve met people at the Ball that I’ve stayed in touch with ever since, people whose paths I may never have crossed otherwise. There’s something about the Ball that makes people more willing to talk with people they don’t know yet, so it’s very social, incredibly fun and playful.
~Interview by Mia Quagliarello
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