How To Land a Dyno
A dyno — a movement where you fully leave the wall to jump and land on another hold on the wall — is one of the most intimidating moves in climbing. The first time I saw a friend finish a dyno my immediate thought was, “Well, there’s no way I’m ever going to be able to do that.” I would only try a dyno on a route if it was a last resort — if it was the only physically possible way to reach the next hold. However, after a great deal of practice, while dynos are still challenging, they no longer seem insurmountable. Here are a few tips and tricks to landing your first (or next) dyno.
- Train explosive movements
At its core, a dyno is all about power; the climber has to move back explosively from a relatively static position on the wall to cover a significant distance. One way to work on making such dynamic motions is to engage in similar exercises while cross training in the gym. Anything that requires a quick movement from a static position is ideal: cleans and weighted hip thrusts are good choices. If you prefer to not use weights, body weighted exercises like burpees, jump squats, and box squats will also do the trick. These exercises help train your body to move efficiently with power.
2. Don’t dyno too much
The first ever problem with a dyno that I completed was a grippy v3. Being the over achiever that I am, I attempted the dyno over and over again in one session. Since the route had very textured holds, by the end, not only were my shoulders wrecked, but my hands were shredded. Attempt a dyno only a few times during a normal gym session, and space out your attempts. Your hands will thank you.
3. Aim higher than you think
Especially when you are dyno-ing for a hold above you or doing one on a negative slope, it is important to try to overshoot. Jump for higher than you think you need so you have enough space and time to get your hands on the target hold. When I aimed right for the hold on that v3, my hands would just continually slap the edge of the hold; aiming higher helped me manage to get my hands on the actual jug.
4. Plan your next move
The first time I landed a dyno, I immediately panicked. I had so much adrenaline, but hadn’t planned what move I would do next! I was so doubtful I would ever land the move that I had never considered the rest of the route. I just hung there trying to figure out my next placement, until I got so tired I fell off. Keeping calm and moving quickly to the next move post-dyno is key to finishing the problem.
No two dynos are the same; some you’ll get on the second attempt, while others will take dozens of tries. I hope these tips help every climber land their next big move! Stay patient and have fun!