Where Have You Gone, Tournedos Rossini?
And other entrees I’ll never have again
From the time I was a little lad (many decades ago), I’ve enjoyed restaurant dining. I’m not a foodie or a gourmet — I enjoy a burger joint as much as a steakhouse.
The other day, I was waxing nostalgic (after which Nostalgic waxed me for a while) about restaurant entrees I used to enjoy but can’t find anymore. Such as:
Caesar Salad. Wait you cry — you can get Caesar Salad anywhere. Well, you can get romaine and bottled dressing anywhere but a little over a half-century ago, Caesar Salad was a big deal.
The server would wheel a cart to your table, and in a huge bowl toss romaine, shaved parmesan, croutons, and the dressing: anchovy fillets, garlic, egg yolks, lemon juice, and mustard.
Yes, children, Caesar Salad is supposed to contain raw eggs and anchovies! Try asking and watch the server’s deer-in-the-headlights expression.
Tournedos Rossini: filet mignon pan-fried in butter and then served on a crouton, topped with a slice of fresh whole foie gras pate, and pan-fried again. And I got two! Haven’t seen them on any menu for years, including steakhouse menus.
Chinese Roast Pork on Garlic Bread. Born in the Catskills in the 1950s, the sandwich was made with Cantonese-style char sui (barbecued pork) on garlic bread with duck sauce (an orange, sweet and sour jelly). They were a staple in New York diners, but no more.
And can we talk about lobster? Lobster Thermidor: lobster meat cooked in a rich wine sauce (as in egg yolks and Cognac), stuffed back into a lobster shell, and topped with an oven-browned Gruyère crust.
Also, Lobster Newburgh: lobster, butter, cream, cognac, sherry, eggs, and Cayenne pepper. High-calorie heaven.
One can still get lobster at restaurants (if one has successfully robbed a Brinks armored truck), but I haven’t seen these two dishes anywhere. A whole steamed lobster would ease the pain, assuming I can ever afford one again.
My wife and I don’t do much “fine dining,” which means stratospheric prices and microscopic portions. I don’t have $500 lying around to spend on a tasting menu (6–8 hors-d’oeuvres served over three hours, wine extra). But once, in Paris, I had a meal I’ll definitely never have again.
My father, an accountant, had clients based in Lausanne, Switzerland with offices in Paris. In 1968 my mother, sister, and I flew with him to Europe. In Paris, my father’s client took us to Le Grand Véfour, a 2-star Michelin restaurant.
There I dined on roast pigeon with goose liver and truffles with a chocolate soufflé for dessert. I feel a little guilty now about eating a dove, but it was an unforgettable experience. Alas, Le Grand Véfour has renewed as a lowly bistro!
Happily, for my appetite, there are more than enough yummy dishes for me to enjoy at restaurants. But just once, before I go to that great automat in the sky, I’d like a Tournedo Rossini — maybe with a side of Lobster Newburgh!
