Budapest: 48hrs/£100
You’ve hit Budapest on Friday with only £100 in your pocket and a head full of ideas. Let me be your walk-through guide to the best accommodation, bars, restaurants, sights and activities in the city that are kind to your wallet and great for the soul.
Friday afternoon and you’ve stepped off at Nyugati station, one of the three main terminals in Budapest (see Pearl here). Where do you go first? Perhaps you, like the country, are Hungary:
Pizzica (see Pearl here) is an authentic Italian pizzeria offering amazing quality pizza at ridiculously low prices. It has either a takeaway or a sit down service, as well as a range of delicious local craft beers to refresh you after the long train journey. Cost: £3 for two large slices, £1 for a beer.
Total so far: £4
A short walk away from Pizzica you’ll find Ellátó Kert, one of Budapest’s many distinctive ‘ruin bars’ (see Pearl here). These bars have all been built in the shells of buildings that were bombed during the Nazi and Communist fighting, but now all tend to have the same relaxed colourful feel. This one is excellent value for a Friday night drink, and is well situated close to several excellent hostels, Airbnb’s and hotels. Cost: £5 for three beers (accommodation £11)
Total so far: £20
Saturday morning. Get a coffee, a decent breakfast and fuel up for the day ahead. Zoska (see Pearl here) is a newly opened breakfast joint serving amazing coffees and breakfasts, and is only a short walk to and from the city centre. I wasn’t feeling too chipper after the night before (hence the double expresso), but everything here is incredible value if you’re looking to keep costs down. Cost: £1.20 Double Expresso, £2.50 Muesli and Yoghurt with extra toppings
Total so far: £23.70
St Stephen’s Basilica (see Pearl here) is one of the must-see buildings in the city, and only a short walk from Zoska. There is a small fee to enter, but once inside it’s impossible to resent that. For the more energetic among you, the climb to the top rewards you with a spectacular view over the city; but even the main atrium is more than enough to satisfy any visitor with its stunning interior decorated by a collection of famous artists. Cost: 50p to enter.
Total so far: £24.20
The Jewish Shoe Memorial, or Cipők a Duna-parton (see Pearl here) is a simple but incredibly moving sculpture created in 2005 to commemorate the Hungarian Jewish victims of the killings committed by the Arrow Cross militiamen; the pro-German, anti-Semitic, national socialist party members of Hungary in 1944–1945. A sombre but important stop on the tour. Cost: Nothing.
Total so far: £24.20
After a moment of reflection, head back into the city; we’re on our way to lunch before a jam packed afternoon. On the way, you will be passing the rather striking Ronald Regan statue in Freedom Square (see Pearl here) so do make sure to thank him for helping to end communism in Hungary. Our cheap but delicious pitstop is at Bors (see Pearl here), a casual bar that may seem simple but is actually run by master chefs who have taken the soup / sandwich genre and turned it into something extraordinary. Cost: £2.50 for Soup / Sandwich, 80p for a coke.
Total so far: £27.50
Ah look, there’s Ronald. A walking tour of Budapest is the best way to understand the city, and luckily there is one that is both brilliant and entirely free (see Pearl here). Take yourself through the stunning old streets to Vörösmarty Square and join one of the many tours that leave throughout the day. Each tour lasts around 2.5–3 hours and is led by a Budapest local. Don’t worry if your feet are starting to hurt a bit — there’s a treat tomorrow that will take care of that. Cost: Nothing.
Total so far: £27.50
Once the tour ends, you may be in need of a meal and a drink. Try an evening at Tasting Table (see pearl here). This shop-cum-restaurant has a big focus on local wine with an amazing range of vintages from around the country. Alongside the booze, they also serve a decadent and delicious tapas style menu that pairs perfectly with whatever grape you’re trying. This is one of the most costly places on our tour, but if you can’t treat yourself on Saturday evening, when can you? Cost: £8 two glasses of wine, £4 charcuterie board.
Total so far: £39.50
For the more revelry focused among us, there is one more place to go tonight after dinner and drinks. That is here, Szimpla Kert (see Pearl here). This place is big, lively, open late and — most importantly — cheap. It’s a great place to end the evening as it has so many different hidden bars and hideaway spots to suit every taste, and is perfectly located to a wide range of hostels, airbnb’s and hotels so you won’t be staggering too far back to bed. Cost: £8 for five beers (accommodation £11)
Total so far: £58.50
Rise and shine. It’s time to have an amazing Sunday. First stop, we’re heading back to where we were last night! Not for a hair of the dog but for the absolutely fantastic farmers’ market which has now emerged from the chaos of the night before (see Pearl here). This market is on every Sunday, and has fantastic food and drink to bring you back to full health, as well as some interesting arts and crafts to browse. For those of you who are fans of markets, I also want to point out the Great Market Hall (see Pearl here), the largest market in Budapest, that is equally brilliant but unfortunately closed on Sundays so not good for purpose here. This Szimpla Farmers’ Market, or Szimpla Kert Háztáji Piac, is our last stop this side of the river before we head to the old town, so make sure to fuel up to last you till lunch. Cost: £1 Coffee, £2 Sandwich
Total so far: £61.50
I told you you were getting a treat today. Gellert Baths and Spa (see Pearl here) is part of the famous Gellert Hotel complex, but for a fee anyone can come in and enjoy the thermal waters, indoor and outdoor pools and spa facilities. Although it’s a little more pricey, after all the previous days walking it’s well deserved. On the way here, you also crossed the Liberty Bridge (see Pearl here) and saw the Liberty Statue (see Pearl here), so by now you should be feeling pretty liberal yourself but do keep swimming costumes on please. Cost: £14.50 entry on the door
Total so far: £76
Once you’ve soaked your troubles away in the sunshine, it should be time for a light lunch. This place, the Gellért Söröző & Brasserie (see Pearl here) is perfect for either a quick snack or a leisurely meal. It’s slightly more pricey than some of the other places we’ve been too, but it’s completely worth it for it’s proximity to the spa and the view from the outdoor terrace. Cost: £7.50 for a main of stuffed peppers, £2.50 for freshly squeezed orange juice.
Total so far: £86
Feeling full and happy? Good, because it’s time to start walking again. Head along the river for a great walk through the Castle Hill district. This kilometre-long limestone plateau towering 170m above the Danube contains Budapest’s most important Medieval monuments and museums, and is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Below it is a 28km-long network of caves formed by thermal springs, which contains several attractions.The walled area consists of two distinct parts: the Old Town where commoners once lived, and the Royal Palace (see Pearl here), the original site of the castle built by Béla IV in the 13th century and reserved for the nobility. Cost: Nothing.
Total so far: £86
You should have now arrived at our final stop, Fisherman’s Bastion (see Pearl here). If you are still feeling in need of a more of an educational jaunt then check out the nearby fascinating Hospital in the Rock (see Pearl here), the name given to a hospital created in the caverns under Buda Castle in Budapest in the 1930s in preparation for the Second World War. However if you’re ready to relax and let the evening draw in, then stay here. This fairytale-like structure was built in the 19th Century specifically as a viewpoint over the city, so provides some of the most stunning views over Budapest you’ll ever find. This view doesn’t cost anything, reaffirming the old phrase that sometimes the best things in life are free. By now the sun should be starting to set, and there really is no better place to watch that from than here, perhaps with a glass of wine in hand. Cost: £2 for a large glass of red.
Total so far: £88
Cheers, everyone. Total spent: £88
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