A Trip to God’s Own Country
When I found stillness amidst the backwaters
Strapped to the roof of a high-speed bullet train, my heart is racing at the speed of light. I can see flashes of trees, transmission towers, tiny huts, and a few people. All of them disappear in a moment. This was what most of 2023 felt like. As I dissected and analyzed every scenario that transpired during the day, life was zooming past me. I experienced a wide spectrum of emotions during that time. The haunting desire to see family in person, constant exhaustion from the most mundane tasks, and countless travels in the hopes of escaping the feelings of being strapped in, even if it lasted only for a few minutes.
As things got better in the year, all I wanted was a long vacation in a faraway land and to begin 2024 on a fresh page. I was presented with this opportunity when we were finally able to visit our own family halfway across the world. Although our trip was a month-long, visiting family and friends, spread across two countries and four different cities, and working from 6 pm to 2 am to align with US work hours, made it seem far too less. After a whirlwind of travel, my husband and I decided to treat ourselves to a day of complete rest and rejuvenation. At this point on our journey, we were in Kerala, admiringly called ‘God’s own country,’ renowned for its coastal land blessed with abundant rainfall, lush flora/fauna, and scenic backwater lagoons.
We headed to Kumarakom, a popular tourist village nestled between vast stretches of coconut trees, mangrove forests, and paddy fields. We wanted to spend a day at Gokulam Grand Resort, located on the banks of the largest lake in Kerala - Vembanad Lake. As this was our first all-inclusive resort experience in Kerala, we went in with little to no expectations. A sweet lady flashing a bright smile greeted us at the entrance with marigold flowers and a refreshing cold drink. She applied a traditional sandalwood paste across our forehead, meant to have a cooling effect on our bodies. Eyes gleaming with excitement, I geared up for an incredible experience. Before heading to our rooms, we took a quiet stroll, feasting on the wonderful architecture around us.
The resort boasted diverse aspects of Kerala’s rich culture. Every corner was lined with beams of wood carved into interesting structures. In the middle, stood a giant boat replica paying homage to the fishing industry which serves as the backbone of Kerala. The walls were lined with mural paintings, intricate works of art painstakingly made by local artists, mostly depicting the Hindu Lord, Krishna in different forms.
Every second that I spent here, my energy cup was being replenished. The friendly staff, intricate architecture, and stunning views of the Vembanad Lake from every corner of the resort were just the beginning.
After spending a few minutes checking out amenities, we kickstarted our adventure with a quintessential Kerala Abhyanga Ayurvedic spa, a full body massage with locally sourced herbal oils. Both of us were exhausted and needed all the pampering we could afford. With a childlike exuberance, we went in for our abhyanga massage.
This massage involves the application of ayurvedic oils on the body and massaging in quick rhythmic bursts of motion. There was not a single moment where I felt my mind wander outside the room, contemplating every interaction I had that day. I slipped into a deep meditative state where my sole focus was on the part of the body that was being worked on.
Some people say they can’t meditate to save their life. I beg to differ; I believe everyone can in their way. Any time our mind can submit to feeling every moment, relishing every second, and being present, that’s meditation.
After what felt like an eternity, the massage therapist told me the next step was Shirodhara (In Sanskrit ‘Shiro’ means head and ‘dhara’ means flow). This technique involves a funnel-shaped pot filled with warm herbal oils and has a tiny hole at its bottom. The warm oil from the pot will slowly drip onto your forehead. The pot is slowly pushed from side to side, forcing the oil to drizzle in a neat zig-zag pattern on your forehead.
When it first began, I was skeptical. It was just oil dripping on my forehead, would I even enjoy this? I am so glad I was wrong. This was the single most soothing experience in my life. The warm oil glazed my forehead horizontally and trickled onto my scalp. I could imagine the oil branching into multiple brooks on my scalp as it ran down my forehead. My mind was consumed by the motion, and I could feel all my senses coming alive. For the next twenty minutes, I could think of nothing else. My mind felt unburdened and light as the massage ended. It was the perfect way to begin our time in the resort.
There was a sunset cruise of the Vembanad Lake scheduled in the evening. After our spa experience, we rushed to the spot where the traditional Kerala houseboat (called ‘Kettuvallam’) stood waiting for us to go on board. Kerala houseboats are made of eco-friendly materials like locally sourced wood, coir ropes, and palm leaves. They come in varying sizes and comfort levels depending on the length of the cruise.
We felt an immediate shift in the vibe, from the soothing spa to a fun and frolic one. The smell of sweet sugary cookies and hot crispy pakoras (an Indian savory treat made with onions and potatoes) permeated the air. To top it off, we were served with hot chai and biscuits to dip into the tea. I didn’t need anything else in the world at that moment. I gulped down the food, so we didn’t miss the boat launch.
Stepping into the boat, melodious and soft instrumental music breezed by our ears. It was astonishing how an ayurvedic massage, a cup of tea, views of a vast lake, and the sound of soothing music provided instant solace to my soul. We walked to the edge of the boat and stayed there for the rest of the ride. Both of us carrying a relaxed smile on our faces, watching the wonderful sights unfold around us, as the boat bid adieu to the shore.
On one side there was the expansive serene Vembanad Lake, and on the other side, the shore was lined with rows of charming resorts basking in the evening sun. We could see a wedding party in one resort, people dancing to loud music, and families swimming and splashing about in the pool in another. We could see construction workers gathering around for a quiet dinner against the backdrop of a resort under construction, which would provide comfort to another round of people just like us.
I stood still, taking in every scent — the freshwater, eclectic mixture of food from the shore, the coastal mud teasing the onset of rain on this beautiful land. The boat reached the middle of the lake just as the glorious sun started her descent. We sat down and watched the sky light up in bright hues of orange, yellow, and pink as she made her way down. Our boat started to head back to the mainland, docking before it was completely dark. We were in no rush to go anywhere as we took a quiet stroll around the gardens before heading to bed with an unexplainable sense of contentment.
We woke up early the next day, so we could kayak on the meandering lake that was built within the resort and build an appetite for the breakfast buffet. We spent an hour under the sun, kayaking through the lake as it snaked through the resort, passing by coconut trees, and beautiful creepers with aromatic flowers.
We played, swam, lay on hammocks, danced to the tunes of a wedding nearby, sweated it out on the kayaks, and had plain fun. Entering this place, my mind was in a constant frenzy of thoughts, mostly of things out of my control. Slowly and steadily, this place pushed them out of me. The stunning views of palm trees and lakes, and the smells of freshwater and delectable food forced me to live in the present moment and brought me inexplicable joy.
If someone were to ask you, ‘What would God’s house look like?’ What would you say?
For me, it is a place where I can have limitless fun without a care in the world. In that sense, Kumarakom you have my heart. You are truly a piece of God’s own country, and I will be counting the number of days till I can play again.
