The Memoirist
Published in

The Memoirist

The Joy of Being a Surfer — One Morning on the Big Island

The day I shared a serene session with a sea turtle, a baby dolphin, and a gentleman wave rider

Surfer riding a wave in Hawaii

Nothing compares to riding a wave. One of the greatest joys in my life has been surfing. It’s the most difficult and rewarding thing I ever learned to do.



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Gentry Bronson

Media & Creative Producer. Writer. Editor. Composer. Songwriter. Pianist. Traveler. Singer. Surfer. Waterman. @gentrybronson