The Memoirist
Published in

The Memoirist

When in Doubt, Paddle Out — Why Surfers Choose to be Ageless

I caught waves with a graying, bearded surfer and he inspired me to never stop paddling out.

A surfer in a wet suit catching a good sized right breaking wave in cold water
Photo by Croyde Bay on Unsplash

I got out of my old Toyota truck, stood on the ridge, and looked out at the Pacific Ocean. Walls of water were rolling in big and breaking with massive sprays of whitewash being blown by the January wind…

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Gentry Bronson

Gentry Bronson

Media & Creative Producer. Writer. Editor. Composer. Songwriter. Pianist. Traveler. Singer. Surfer. Waterman. @gentrybronson https://gentrybronson.com