Arriving in Paradise: My Unexpected Bush with Darkness
The sights and sounds of Bali bombard the senses: gamelan music, the smell of incense, and the vibrant colors of offerings laid out on the streets. But for one day each year, the island goes completely silent.
Nyepi is a Balinese holiday known as the “Day of Silence”, marking the new year according to the Balinese calendar. For 24 hours, the island comes to a standstill.
The contrast between Bali's typically vivacious atmosphere and the stillness that descends upon the island on this sacred day struck me as I experienced Nyepi for the first time.
Stepping Off the Plane into the Bali Heat
As soon as I step off the plane and onto the tarmac, a blast of hot, humid air envelops me. After the climate-controlled chill of the cabin, Bali’s tropical heat hits me like a wall. Beads of sweat instantly prickle across my forehead, and I can feel my shirt dampening in the sweltering humidity. This isn’t a dry heat—it’s sauna-like, almost steaming.
Blinking against the bright sunlight, I take in the sensory chaos of the airport. Snatches of Indonesian announcements mix with other travelers chatter in various languages. In the distance, I hear the throbbing of diesel engines. Flowery, spice-laden smells begin to waft in on the thick air. It’s a jolt to my senses after the recycled air of the plane.
Navigating the Wild Bali Traffic
The ride from the airport to Ubud is a white-knuckle adventure. The streets are jammed with a terrifying tangle of buses, trucks, cars, and swarms of scooters, all crammed into narrow lanes. Cars and mopeds weave in and out of tiny gaps and up on sidewalks at times.
I’m familiar with this brand of constructive chaos from my time living in Thailand. However, as stressful as navigating these chaotic streets is, I’m amazed at my driver’s skill. He maneuvers us artfully through the organized madness, seeming to predict pedestrians’ and motorbikes’ moves before they happen. I can’t help but marvel at how he communicates with other drivers through subtle gestures and honks instead of words. This is Bali traffic in action, I realize — a mad ballet that gets everyone where they need to be.
Checking into the Private Villa Oasis
After navigating the chaotic streets of Bali, arriving at my small private villa is like entering an oasis of serenity. As I step through the villa gates, the sounds of horns and engines start to fade and give way to the peaceful sounds of nature.
The lush gardens surround the villa, blocking out the outside world. Swaying palm trees cast cooling shade over the stone pathways leading to the main villa. The air feels lighter and easier to breathe. The scenic villa front decking overlooks a small private garden, shaded by a well crafted awning. The teak deck chairs with colorful cushions seem to call out, inviting me to sink in and restore my spirit. As I relax with a refreshing cocktail in hand, I let my cares float off into the breeze.
As the afternoon sun begins to set, lights twinkle about the cluster of small private villas all nestled together. The various decks and lounging areas transform into the perfect spot for conversing, reading, or just gazing up at the emerging stars. The villa staff may light citronella torches to keep the insects away, adding a lovely glow to the early evening.
Learning About Nyepi and Making Preparations
The next day, my Airbnb host sends a helpful message explaining Bali’s yearly Day of Silence, suggesting I stock up on necessities since everything will close. I’m intrigued to experience this unique holiday. Following his advice, I spent the day before Nyepi preparing both logistically and mentally for a full day of introspection and quiet.
The Increasing Din Leading Up to Nyepi
In the days preceding Nyepi, the noise levels steadily rise as locals drive out evil spirits with raucous parades. Drumming, chanting, and fireworks intensify nightly. Crowds gather to watch colorful processions and effigy burnings. The clamor reaches its peak on Nyepi Eve, as an unbroken curtain of silence slowly descends over the island.
Abrupt Silence Once Night Falls
Just before sunset on Nyepi Eve, I retreat into my villa and draw the shutters in preparation. As the sun slips over the horizon, the shops, bars, and resorts all close early. No lamps light the usually bustling roads and walkways — the whole island goes dark for 24 hours. Only the natural sounds of wind and wildlife punctuate the stillness. After the clamor of the previous day, the quiet stillness feels otherworldly.
Venturing Outside to Absolute Darkness and Quiet
According to Balinese belief, only demons and bad spirits roamed about on Nyepi. Near midnight, curiosity drives me to open the front door to my small villa and see for myself. I’ve spent most of my adult life living in big cities. Whether it’s Las Vegas, Los Angeles, or Bangkok, the lights are always on. If not, it’s a serious problem.
Here, utter darkness and quiet waited just outside the door, ready to swallow me whole. Standing there, my senses strained for stimuli but found none — no lights, no traffic, no human sounds. Just the whirring of insects and distant waves. I found this absence of familiar sensory input to be both unsettling and meditative. I feel the temptation to step out into the total darkness, like peering over the edge from a great height. I instead opted to embrace the absolute tranquility of the evening from the comfort of my cushy room.
Appreciating the Spiritual Side of Balinese Culture
Witnessing Nyepi firsthand gives me a deeper insight into the rich spirituality woven through Balinese life. Their new year’s ritual echoes ancient traditions of purification, introspection, and contemplation. I have the sense that the unexpected gifts of Nyepi will continue to help calm my mind and refresh my senses long after my initial experience.
Taking the Lessons of Nyepi Home
After experiencing the restorative quiet of Nyepi, I’ve resolved to cultivate more mindfulness, presence, and silence in my daily life. I am reminded to take time to create space for introspection, to simplify, and to detach from technology’s din. Bali’s spirit infuses me with new energy to restore balance to my life that I didn’t know was missing.
Openness to New Experiences
I love the way travel often takes me outside my comfort zone and opens up new paths to explore and learn from. It reminds me of just how easy it is to get lost in unfamiliar places.
Exploring beyond the familiar in Bali rewarded me with many amazing experiences and unique opportunities for personal growth — experiencing my first Nyepi will always be one of my favorites. I look forward to losing myself somewhere new at the first opportunity and making my way back with more interesting stories to share.
