Is This the End of Tipping?

The restaurant industry is in crisis. But some see how bad things are for servers — including “maskual harassment” — as a unique chance to make life better.

Shelly Ortiz, who quit her job as a server in Phoenix after the summer. Photo: Caitlin O’Hara for The New York Times

By Emma Goldberg

On a hot night last summer, Shelly Ortiz gulped down water, put on two masks and tried to muster the excitement…

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