Istanbul Layover at night
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Istanbul Airport’s metro station was clean, spacious and gave an old Soviet metro vibe, also located deep underground. Its logo seemed to be a globe, but also looked an Ottoman Sultan’s tughra (calligraphic monogram.)
Erdogan, who had just claimed victory of the first runoff election in the history of Turkey, personally welcomed me on the metro.
Istanbul airport’s metro line (M11) hadn’t been completely finished yet, so I had to transit at Kağıthane. The transit required passengers to cross a busy road outside, going downstairs and upstairs again, which may be inconvenient for people with luggage. Hopefully once the M11 line is fully finished the transit would be a lot more smooth.
The moment I walked out of the metro station, I was welcomed not only by Erdogan himself again, but also horns from virtually every single car passing by. Some waved the Turkish flag, some waved the flag of Erdogan’s AK party, some waved the flag of MHP (far-right party in Erdogan’s party alliance,) and some waved straight-out Erdogan’s portraits.
This guy was so excited about the “new” president. The “4” gesture Erdogan used often stands for Turkey’s “one people, one flag, one homeland, one nation.” (doesn’t it sound a bit familiar to some slogan used elsewhere in the last century?)
As a Geoguessr champion league player, I always pay attention to street signs during my travels. The Turkish “DUR” is one of the only stop signs in Europe written in the local language, instead of the English “STOP.” The pedestrian crossing sign with yellow borders are most commonly seen in Russia and Moldova, rarely seen elsewhere but sometimes appears in Turkish and Hungarian cities.
After some road observations, I continued the metro ride to Taksim, Istanbul’s downtown. This was also my first time here (only went to the old town Sultanahmet last time.) With the crowds gathering to celebrate the election result, the normally crowded monument plaza was blocked by the police.
I saw only happy crowds here in Istanbul so far— cars honking, kids cheering, flags and banners flying enthusiastically in the sky. It’s like some festival that the entire city went on the streets to celebrate, rather than the heated political chaos I was warned about repeatedly prior to my departure. But where were Kılıçdaroğlu’s supporters? Isn’t Istanbul supposed to be the opposition camp’s strong hold? Had they already accepted their defeat fully?
The famous walking street in Taksim. Istanbul has been one of the most comfortable cities I’ve visited — pleasant weather, kind people, historical atmosphere, unbeatable vibe on the street. It’s one of the few places I would gladly settle in (that is, if I could get my income in currencies other than Turkish Lira.)
First time seeing Kılıçdaroğlu’s signs in Turkey, at an office of his party CHP, the party Mustafa Kemal founded a century ago. His supporters were nowhere to be seen.
I had my dinner in a random restaurant down the road — its Turkish hamburger (kofte) was very juicy and tasty. Unfortunately as I bit further, I realized it had cheese fillings inside, which ruined it partially. In the restaurant I overheard conversations from groups of Chinese and Korean tourists about their trip throughout Turkey. If only I also had extended time to do a proper trip, instead of seeing as much as I could in borrowed time.
On the streets there were flyers about the election, and about the ongoing Zan Zendegi Azadi (Women, Life, Freedom) movement in Iran. Hopefully Iran’s younger generations would prevail, and I could go visit one day.
The walking street started from Taksim and went all the way to the famous Galata Tower right next to the Golden Horn.
The Galata Tower was projected with the Azerbaijani flag, presumably because the national day of this brotherly state was imminent. Turkey and Azerbaijan were “one nations; two states.” Erdogan had close personal relationship with Azerbaijan’s Ilham Aliyev — they cooperated in 2020 to devastatingly defeat Armenia in the 2nd Nagorno Karabakh War. At the moment I am writing this article, Nagorno Karabakh, aka the de-facto Republic of Artsakh, had just ceased to exist. Without Armenia on its way, Erdogan finally had the opportunity to pursue his unified “Turkish World.”
I really envied the people who dine casually at the cafes and the restaurant next to the Galata Tower. If I were to live in Istanbul and come here often, instead in the middle of nowhere where I am now, I would earn a lot less, but life would likely be more enjoyable.
From Galata tower I walked downstairs through the back allies to Golden Horn, the once center of Western civilization. The tides here had witnessed empires come and go; even to this day, the Black Sea Grain Deal after Russia’s invasion to Ukraine still grabbed the international headlines.
A city as glamorous as Istanbul wasn’t without its own issues. Following the horrendous civil war in Syria, Erdogan took in a large number of refugees, many of whom live and work in absolutely harsh conditions. Some were given Turkish citizenship because these immigrants tend to be avid Erdogan supporters.
First time walking through the Golden Horn Bridge. Several people were fishing in the lovely Turkish night, cheering about Erdogan’s victory. Some welcomed me and asked me where I was from.
Walking in Sultanahmet, the old town of Istanbul where I had briefly visited in January. I saw Erdogan supporters celebrating their victory on the middle of the road. They stopped the cars in the traffic, and the drivers, unexpectedly, came off their cars without any frustration on their faces. They ended up shouting the takbir and Erdogan’s name all together.
I had a very pleasant stay in a nice, budget-friendly hotel in Sultanahmet during my last visit. I was planning to book the same hotel, but ended up booking an even cheaper one. The kind staff greeted with me with a cup of complimentary coffee. He also upgraded my room to a better one with no extra cost.
Another staff walked me to my room to make sure I had everything. As I turned on the TV, I pointed at Kılıçdaroğlu’s name on the screen, asking “Did you vote for him?”
The friendly staff, not speaking much English, didn’t react.
I then pointed at Erdogan’s name. “Erdogan good?”
“Yes yes! Erdogan very good!” He responded.
