Self repair your broken Canon EOS M3 touch screen — mini guide.

Tristan Zand
Apr 28, 2018 · 3 min read

After years of good service, and undeserved beatings, I finally broke my Canon EOS M3 touch screen. The machine is good, I don’t really need more, but while I do have the external LCD viewfinder, many options are unreachable when you can’t get the touch interface to work.

But I didn’t really find a guide online. So with my minimalistic experience and a few tools I went for it anyway. It finally was pretty easy, so this is a dirty but practical guide that might help you.

A few facts:

1 — it will take you about 30 minutes from start to end

2 — you will need to find the spare part (e.g. on Ebay you will find one for a couple of bucks)

3 — you will need a micro cross screwdriver set (only one necessary, but you might as well get one of those mini kits for the same price, cheap, might serve you again, you never know)

4 — prepare some gaffer tape (or some non liquid strong removable glue), two or more relatively smooth and solid wooden toothpicks (will serve to unglue and disconnect without bruising parts) and wash your hands

The part to change:

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pic 1 — The original touch screen you will need to replace has two ribbon connectors (red arrow, green arrow). It sits glued to the frame from behind (from where you touch the screen) but the whole connector part sits and sticks to the inside of the frame elements which are only accessible from beneath. So you will need to unscrew stuff to get to this point.

My original cracked screen:

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pic 2 — I had broken my screen by having it stay against really solid and heavy equipment in an inadequate backpack pocket (screen fissures — yellow arrows — on this inside view of the opened-up LCD). The LCD is actually hard-glued to the back window, by trying to unstick it you will get what I got here: separation of the layers on both sides of the liquid cristals…

Where to start:

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pic 3 — Start by removing the two lower screws (easy).
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pic 4 — Remove the back cache screw (red arrow — very easy), and the cache.
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pic 5 — Slide the whole screen downwards to reveal the three small screws underneath and unscrew them (fairly easy — yellow arrows).
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pic 6 — Here, the four screws out let you disassemble the screen relatively easily. The mechanical arm will however not disassemble, so beware not to bend the connectors and be gentle with the parts to understand how they relate.
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pic 7 — To disconnect the touch screen part from the camera side wide ribbon (seen here without the screen — don’t detach it yet), you will need to flip the white plastic clamp following the green arrow (easy with fingernail), and gently the brown one following the blue arrow (using the tip of the wooden toothpick). Both are here open, thus letting the ribbon connectors easily slide out.
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pic 8 — To unstick the screen from the camera side ribbon, now that you have disconnected both screen ribbon connectors, you will need to very gently and progressively detach the camera side wide ribbon from the underlying glue-tape (left blue arrow). Don’t mess that glue tape too much as you will be able to stick it to the new screen. Same thing with some kind of isolation part (right blue arrow), that you will be able to detach and reattach. There are some small adapters that don’t seem to do much (the black arrows), but you will also be able to readapt them to the new screen so be gentle.
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pic 9 — Pushing the screen out of the frame slowly should detach that glue-ribbon (red arrows) from the original screen (seen below without frame, the new screen is on top). Again, using the toothpick slowly might help you keep things intact. Place the new screen inside the frame by reusing what you can of that glue ribbon, or add some glue yourself (I didn’t, but did the unesthetical gaffer trick I will show at the end).
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pic 10 — Beware there is some kind of plastic guide/frame that stands loose between the articulated metal frame and your screen (the red arrows). Just keep it there, there is one plastic pin on one corner that will guide you putting it back in when closing the screen. Replace the new screens ribbon connectors inside their ports and close the clamps (reverse movement than the one in pic 7).
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pic 11 — Put back all the screws and turn the camera on. Tadaa! If the screen doesn’t hold well, there is some extra surface on both sides for you to tightly gaffer tape; yes this is really ugly, but it does hold great! ;) .

Hope this guide will help you make your M3 fully functional again!

Don’t hesitate to comment or propose enhancements.

Cheers.

:)

Tristan Zand

Written by

I like to hide behind sunglasses/music/photo/tech/arts/politics/whatever/oh and bass... Experimental photography and conceptual media. http://zand.net

The Raw Camera — Von Cam

A raw review of diverse techniques, cameras and lenses. More on how things might be done, or on how the equipment feels than sole objective technical data. Hopefully useful and enjoyable.

Tristan Zand

Written by

I like to hide behind sunglasses/music/photo/tech/arts/politics/whatever/oh and bass... Experimental photography and conceptual media. http://zand.net

The Raw Camera — Von Cam

A raw review of diverse techniques, cameras and lenses. More on how things might be done, or on how the equipment feels than sole objective technical data. Hopefully useful and enjoyable.

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