San Sebastian with kids
San Sebastian — it’s got one of the best city beaches in the world and a gastronomic culture that draws people from near and far. But what if you’re visiting the city with a couple of primary schoolers in tow, are they going to be as delighted with the squid ink croquette you found? Maybe once, but not night after night. Here’s my (and my children’s) hit list of how to keep the kids entertained in San Sebastian….
Mount Igeldo Amusement Park — Top of the list whenever we have visitors, whatever their age. Mount Igeldo is at the far end of La Concha, the landmark hill that’s crowned with a crenallated tower. There is a funicular up to the top and once you’re there the most charming amusement park with rides that haven’t changed since they started life in the 1920s. There’s not many and they don’t last long, Alton Towers this is not, but where else can you ride on a boat and a roller coaster with quite such fantastic views.
Comb of the Winds — Peine del Viente is an artwork by Basque artist Chillida at the very far end of Ondarrietta Beach, when you can walk no further. Three giant, twisted iron claws seem either to harness the sea or are utterly swamped by it, depending on the weather, but the draw for the children are the air pipes in front of the sculpture. When the conditions are right, you can stand over the blow holes while the waves funnel air up them sending skirts and hair skywards. On rough days, whole plumes of water come up and on very calm days, there’s nothing. That’s weather for you.
Pasaia — a 15-minute bus ride away from San Sebastian is the port of Pasaia. The port’s entry is through a channel with the communities of Pasaia San Pedro on one side and Pasaia San Juan (or Donibane in Basque) on the other. Donibane is at the foot of green hills that leave only enough space for one street of colourful houses between them and the water. There is a small passenger ferry that runs on a constant loop between the two (for the princely sum of 80 cents). In Pasaia San Pedro there is the museum of Alboala which tells the story of a whaling ship which sank off the coast of Canada in the 1600s and its wreck was found and salvaged in 1978. The museum is recreating the boat using the same building techniques which would have been available to the original Basque boat builders. If you carry on past the museum, you can walk back from Pasaia to San Sebastian. It’s absolutely beautiful along the cliffs, takes about 2.5 hours and the only really steep bit is at the beginning when steps go up from sea level to the clifftop. Take snacks.
Water sports — San Sebastian has three beaches. Furthest east is Zurriola which has the biggest waves, these are fun enough to jump in, but there are also a number of surf schools to start you on your surfing adventures whatever your age. My nine and six year old had a joint lesson with an instructor and both of them were standing after one hour. Then there’s the central and most well known beach of La Concha. There are rafts with slides moored a distance off to sea, they’re quite far for small children but closer at low tide and if you invest in a boogie board, they can use that as a float. You can also hire Stand-Up Paddle boards and kayaks from La Fortuna by the central ramp down to the beach. The third beach is Ondarrietta which is known as the family beach — but in fact the water is often a bit murkier here, so it’s not my favourite. But it does have a place to hire kayaks and SUPs and is well positioned for going to Santa Clara island. You can moor your kayaks and take a short swim to the island to explore. or alternatively, and I’ve never done it, you can get to the island on boats from the harbour.
Catch a sunset — Everyone loves a sunset whatever age. From the west side and back of Mount Urgull (the one with Jesus on top), or next to the Kursaal building (the big, modern one on Zurriola) you get a lovely view of the sun setting over the sea. Currently (end of July) around 9.15.
The food — Some children will love eating calamari and tiny succulent pieces of steak, others won’t. But almost all are fond of a plate of patatas bravas and the best ones in town are at Los Mejillones, an atmospheric pintxos bar on Portu Kalea. You can ask for them with or without the spicy sauce. If they are not so keen on the whole pintxos thing — tortilla and ham croquettes were our daughter’s staples — then the trick is to feed them at home first so they’re more amenable to you enjoying a few. We would also plan a pudding stop to keep them going. Cheesecake at La Vina on 31 Agosto and the white chocolate mousse with basil ice cream at Zeruko on Arrandegi Kalea are top favourites — for them and us. And for ice cream, go for Boulevard every time. There are various shops around, the small €2.20 one is massive!
Museums — You may well get rain while in San Sebastian! The Aquarium by the harbour has the Basques’ sea-faring history as well as a good collection of fish, including a tunnel you can walk through while rays and sharks swim above. The science museum is a short bus ride into the ‘Hospital’ district but very interactive including flight simulators. Museo San Telmo is the region’s history going back as far as the Bronze Age, it’s very good, but a lot to take in on one visit.
The castle on Mount Urgull — With old walls and cannons, it’s pretty easy to reimagine Napoleon occupying this castle as he tried to make his way across to Portugal. There’s a small museum at the top of the hill (personally, I wouldn’t bother with the audio guide) that gives you access to the Jesus statue and some great views of the town.
Tabakalera — The Tabakalera probably isn’t in the tourist guides, but as residents here, it has been our salvation on many a rainy day. A former tobacco factory, it has been converted into a cultural space and has a café downstairs, large indoor covered open spaces, a table tennis table, art exhibitions, a library which offers games as well as books, and a terrace with great views on the fifth floor. And it does pizza in the evenings.
Cristina Enea park — Again, not a huge tourist attraction but if you’re looking for a green space to hang out, this is opposite the Tabakalera and has peacocks and a building at the top which usually has a quirky art exhibition on.
