Day Eight: Achievement Unlocked: Our First 60 Mile Day
Distance: 62 miles
Song of the day: Scrawl and Scream — Swervedriver
6AM: Sneak out to catch sunrise on the beach. Surfer man from adjacent campsite also awake (he never seems to surf, mostly traipses campsite or reads novel) takes dirty golden retriever down to beach to romp in early waves.
7AM: Lizzie up now. Make oatmeal w/ flax, sunflowerseeds and coffee. Lizzie takes walk before leaving campground. Sees dolphins! Packing more efficient and we’re working more in unison. On the road by 8:06AM, our earliest start to date!
Stop at “On what Grounds?” in Berlin for breakfast sandwiches. It’s a ShopKeep merchant! Food is delicious. Advised by local who works at NASA on Wallops Island (en route) that 113 is under construction, so we spin out farther west, giving us a convenient excuse to pedal directly through Jared Hoffman’s hometown. (Hi Jared!)
Snow Hill
12:20 Roll into Jared’s hometown off large shoulders, all drivers courteous and careful to veer around us. Immediately upon crossing town line four landscapers say Hello! Two more blocks into town, woman stops and says Hello! Everyone seems friendly here.
Local coffee shop fare is: house salad w/ added chicken for Kyle, grilled Cheese w/ chips for Lizzie and a strawberry smoothie. We chat with two local women who are attempting to chat with Tristan, a “bikepacker” who rides a motorcycle. Tristan is a bike aficionado who markets/promotes bike companies, he quit his job two weeks ago to peddle his wares as a roving freelancer. Since quitting he’s already hit Chicago, Ocean City, Boston, New York, DC, now he’s headed to Atlanta to help friends open a Jeep specialty shop. We might cross paths in New Orleans.
Virginia!
3PM: A literal mile after crossing state line we are flipped off by an approaching driver. The road is narrow and he’s offended that he did not get off the road to let a car behind us pass — ridiculous. I think a few thoughts before arriving at the mature one: I’m not out here to cause trouble and I will diffuse whatever tensions arise, however irksome passers-by may be. Unless presented a clear need to defend (Liz) I will be totally conciliatory. Not worth it any other way.
Route 679 past Virginia line is insanely stressful. Shoulder is a mere 4 — 6 inches with bumpy reflector lights and trecherous shoulders. Traffic consistent, 100 cars probably pass us over the hour into Wallops Island. Balancing on such a narrow shoulder requires intense focus and white-knuckling in a single grip position. Not fun.
3:55PM: Pull off into farm/produce stand for final break before bridge to Chincoteague, which will be 5 mile haul, reportedly a tough ride on crazyguyonabike. Not too much produce this time of year, but we gossip with farm hands who are thoroughly helpful, point out everything we will need on island. We buy 64 oz of apple juice, drink 44 on the spot and put the remaining in hydroflask. Buy a small bottle of preserves. Nice farmhand gives us a few free carrots — big ones!
Nearing Chincoteague
Bridge alternates between tough ride with no shoulder at at and fine shoulder. We’re so glad when it’s over. Set up camp as fast as we can and head to fish market. We say “fry ‘em up!” And they do!
Trouble is brewing tomorrow — more to come
