My wife’s 30th birthday. A winter hike to remember.
We used the guided services of Dimitar from www.bulguides.com. And it was way beyond our expectations. If you are new to winter hiking, don’t know Bulgarian mountains that well, or just want to give your beloved one an experience to remember — this is for you.
Long story short, Krem and I have been married for little less than 8 months (by the time I share this). One might say that we are keen on adventure, travel and outdoor in general. We are physically active and always looking to spend as much time as possible into the wilderness. Biketouring is something we both fancy and Krem is a keen jogger. Myself, I am an occasional snowboard freerider and love to spend time in the mountains but for both of us hiking above the 2000m+ line during the winter is something new. Especially for her. To be honest, I have done a few winter hikes, but this was her first all mountain hut-to-hut experience ever. And it was my gift for her 30th birthday!
Krem and I we have a non verbal agreement that on her birthday (late February) we go out and experience new horizons. Two years ago (a few months after we started dating), we went skiing. She was an absolute novice and joined a ski school to get the basics. Eventually, she broke her tibia bone and that’s how I got to meet her parents (baby-carrying her to her parents home). Next year, again for her birthday, we decided to go somewhere warmer and off we went to Cambodia. We had a blast there and somehow got engaged. Fast forward to late February 2019, healthy and married, we decided that it was time to hit the snowy mountains again. Some snowboarding maybe? Unfortunately, she was afraid to hit the slopes — post traumatic stress or whatever, so I had an idea. Let’s take it easy. Let’s hike!
I really wanted to make the hike special (and safe) so I decided to book a guide. Making it nice and sweet I stumbled upon the guys from www.bulguides.com, dropped a mail stating our desire for a 3 day mountain retreat only to get a response in a few hours time. These guys meant business — quick and professional, they got in touch with me to set a plan, discuss gear and sort out the financials. Really swift, very sound. Liked the attitude and off we went to the highest mountain on the Balkan Peninsular — Rila.
We met Dimitar (our guide and a friend ever since) close to the kick off point. He was on time stating his professionalism once again. It was early in the morning and we did a preliminary gear check. Naturally, our backpacks were heavier than they were supposed to (I still blame my Nikon for that) but Dimitar stepped in and took the burden (and load) to carry some of our gear. On top, we were lacking crampons and snowshoes but he came prepared and brought those vital necessities ( I was sure I was about to return the favour with the magnificent quince Rakia I had with me, but as it turned out Dimitar was not having a sip — he claimed he didn’t drink but I was sure it was his code of conduct talking. I mean have you ever met a mountaineer who denies fire water on a stormy night cold as your ex’s heart, in the middle of nowhere…seriously?)
First day was easy like a Sunday morning (or so they said). A cumulative elevation gain of little less than 500 m+, it was the day of getting to know the snowshoes a bit better. It was also the day of practical learning of how lower valleys are filled of fresh powder blown off the upper snow fields. We talked about snow conditions, snow profiles, avalanches and…animals. It happened to be that Dimitar used to be a forester before becoming a professional guide (a proud title he holds for the past 14 years). This guy was the Bulgarian equivalent of a native American as far as animals were concerned. He traced tracks of deers, squirrels, rabbits, foxes and even wolves. What was even more striking was the fact that he “read” the actions and re-actions of those creatures. “Look Ned, here as some wolf traces”. “But see, he kept on, — the wolf started chasing his pray here, look how the gap between the trace increases”. And there were the sounds of various birds he immediately recognised, giving us the complete bio data of the species. Unbelievable!
A great powder day in the woods, ended up in a truly unique hut (Lovna hut) run by the 26-year-old Ivan. But what was even better was that we were left with some daylight so that Dimitar can introduce me to the avalanche gear he was carrying because of my pre-departure request (kudos for that one). We simulated a rescue operation and I got to know the basics of rescue missions — what to do to, but mostly what NOT to do.
Yes…day 2 was the gift I wanted to give to my wife. The absolute mesmerising views above 2000m of sea level. The endless cold desert of Rila mountain, spiced by the all mighty cusps! See, I am not a romantic persona and, frankly, I rarely talk like a drunk troubadour but the views, man…the views! I have been freeriding the Alps and the Dolomites, I have hiked the Pyrenees, yes they are truly spectacular, but Rila is just a hidden gem somewhere in Eastern Europe. It is sooo out of the popular sight, therefore so peaceful and not crowded. Don’t take my words for granted. Do take my photos though.
The day was physically challenging with over 1100k cumulated elevation gain. It was almost a constant climb but there was no wind and the sun was frying us out (my aristocratic paleness is not a benefit in circumstances of that matter). But it was worth every sweat drop. By the time we reached the next hut — Ivan Vazov, the concept of purpose of existence has shifted. If heaven was a night club, then the hut was the bar serving drinks. Located at nearly 2300m, Ivan Vazov hut (named after one of the most famous Bulgarian writers of all times) is benevolently cuddled between Otovitsa peak and the two Kalin peaks (small and large Kalin).
Not that I am a great expert on Bulgarian huts, but in my experience — Ivan Vazov hut is definitely in top 3 Bulgarian huts (in terms of location and interior). It is one of the few privately owned huts in the region (in this part of the world that is a good omen). Take a peek.
On top of the ultimate location and funky Zen style interior (I heard there was a meditation room inside the hut, but silly me — never saw it) we had a blasting greeting by the hut master. Georg was as welcoming as the sweetest old lady you ever met. He cooked for us, he told us stories, but most of all — he nearly made us weep with the sounds of his Kaba gaida (a traditional folklore pipe). He not only played the pipe after dinner but he also walked us out of the hut playing the next day. Georg had an amazing personal story and I strongly recommend you go and talk to him in person. Words are powerless to retell the sheer magnitude of his persona.
Day 3 was a long drop (as in kilometers). The whole 1300m drop full of views and deep forest snow later during the day. The conditions were a bit harsh with wind over 50 km/h along the Green Rid. Nothing spectacular but had to brace a few times when the gusts of wind challenged us. Krem, the lightest of us had the most challenging times and for once in my life I was happy to posses a few extra kilos more than I should.
The day was amazing and so were the views. Getting off the mountain was a sad moment and I realised that when Krem approached me and said “I don’t want to go!” So we made a promise — gear up and come back soon!
Besides the greatness of the trip and all, there is a moral story attached. Alongside the hardcore technical stuff we got our hands on, there was something far greater that will stick for a lifetime. The personal stories of Dimitar and Georg were nearly biblical. I will surely not bother you with the details as you have to meet these guys in person to get the full grasp, but long story short — these were stories about passion and persistence. Dimitar, the mountain loving guide and his story of following his dreams no matter what and Georg — the half Finish half Bulgarian traveling musician who escaped military duty because of his pipe. Different stories with a same conclusion — find what you love and stick to it. Be passionate and patient but always seize the moment…now off you go to the mountains!
