In Pictures: Magnificent Madurai

Divakar KS
Theera Ulaa
Published in
4 min readSep 25, 2016

In a city nearly as old as human civilization — every photo captured has something of interest, and in every corner or niche, there is a beautiful story. Here is a bite into that part of Pandya Kingdom that it holds closest to its soul. We got to witness the overwhelming sights like three rush-hour lanes of cars come to a halt to let a wooden oxen cart pass. Amused by a rural lady hawker balancing a huge basket on her head, but still, manages to give you a smile and a wave! Madurai, the true Tamil city that never sleeps.

Enroute to Madurai — We couldn’t resist stopping by to breathe the air and feel the light that this place near Palani offered.
Throw a stone in Madurai and chances are it will be one chipped off an old temple. Housing over a total of 33,000 sculptures, built at the same time as Taj Mahal, Meenakshi Amman Temple is the epitome of artistry and is the heart and soul of this ancient city.
Meenakshi — The one with fish shaped eyes was the daughter of a Pandya king, considered divine with three breasts, also the reincarnation of Parvati Devi destined only to reunite with Lord Siva.
Ganesan Thatha

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” — Here is a photograph of our Ganesan Thatha after innocently explaining all the good vegetarian outlets to the gang who actually were on a mission kari dosai.He personified the Paasakara Payapulla tag the city holds. When we looked at his shop and he looked at us and smiling, we knew — we were loved.He made it sure we went in the right direction to reach the Aayiram Kaal Mandapam which again is on the same campus.

Staying rooted to the old whilst staying updated with new much like Madurai as a whole. While we asked him whether we could take a photograph of him after having a little conversation, he misunderstood and said ‘Edukren thambi’ (Yes, I can) with a smile on his face misunderstanding that we wanted him to take a photograph of us. Kindness is truly a great virtue.
While he was shy, facing the camera, his character was as sweet as the halwa he was selling. Opposite the West Tower, stands this sweet shop which was started in 1901. So this is the 115th for them.They have the distinction of being patronised by celebrities such as Pandit Nehru, M.S. Subbulakshmi, MGR to name a few.
Sharing a lighter moment with the halwa thaatha.
Colours of Madurai captured in a bangle shop nearby the east entrance of the Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple.
Yakhoob Anna

“…keep smiling, because life is a beautiful thing and there is so much to smile about…” — Mr.Yakhoob Khan served us the heart-cooler in the city that never sleeps. When asked about the preparation of the same, he went on to explain with the literal meaning — jigar thanda is something that cools the lungs. He added that jigarthanda must have come to the Pandya kingdom along with Mughal cuisine, most probably through a marriage alliance.Here in the store named Famous started by Mr.P.S. Sheik Meeran in 1977, they prepare the delicacy using with milk, kadal paasi and nannari and an extra layer of basundhi.

You didn’t visit Madurai if you didn’t have the Jigardhanda. Jigardhanda is Madurai’s iconic delicacy prepared using with milk, kadal paasi and nannari and an extra layer of basundhi.
Established in 1959, the museum houses the blood-stained garment worn by Mahatma Gandhi when he was assassinated by Godse. This museum also showcases the letter written by him to Subramania Bharati and to Adolf Hitler addressing him as Dear Friend.
Remember that Kannalanae from the film Bombay? Even some scenes from his Mohanlal-Prakash Raj classic Iruvar was shot here. The palace was erected in 17th century and is a classic fusion of Dravidian and Rajput styles.Believe it or not, there are around 248 giant pillars inside the Thirumalai Nayak Palace, each of them being 58 feet in height and 5 feet in diameter. They don’t just look like a remnant from our history, they are amazing historic art just like a treasure passed to our generation.
Evenings in Madurai.
Evenings in Madurai.

“Chaos is the law of nature, Order is the dream of man” — The city was laid out in the shape of a square with a series of concentric streets culminating from the temple. These squares continue to retain their traditional names, Aadi, Chittirai, Avani-moola and Masi streets corresponding to Tamil month names. It might be not as big as Chennai, but there are so many localities! The addresses might be standard, but the directions are quite confusing, at least to one of us. Interestingly enough, like Chennai, Madurai has an Anna Nagar, KK Nagar and a Shenoy Nagar.

Madurai Idli Kadai

Good idlies make good mornings — Opened in 1993, Murugan Idli Kadai has taken the native food ‘Idli’ to the world. Started initially as ‘Murugan Coffee Nilayam’, the upgraded outlet now has branches in Chennai, Vellore and Singapore.

Good idlies make good mornings — Photographed the person who served us hot idlies at Murugan Idli Shop.
Besides having nicknames such as Athens of the East, Malligai Maanagar (Jasmine city), it holds the title of Thoongaa Nagaram (the city that never sleeps). Here are my good friends Naveen and Shafeeque having idlies in a roadside eatery after the dead of night.
They are courteous and polite, no matter what the situation is. It goes without saying that this is just a majority of the population.
Muthu’s family in Madurai

Serving traditional and tasty Eraal and Kesari to us, they shared their experiences, history and culture, invested in our emotions leading to one everlasting goodwill.

What better place to experience the good old tamil hospitality than Madurai?

--

--

Divakar KS
Theera Ulaa

Travel experiences from Theera Ulaa | In Pursuit of then Madras and now Chennai | Driving growth at Sportwalk