How the landscape of fashion is changing with the new wave of designers
by Lu Adesola
The Nigerian fashion scene is unarguably immensely blessed with talented designers, who not only create amazing pieces but also contribute greatly to our economy by fostering growth with the use of local artisans and craftsmanship.
Patrons such as Lisa Folawiyo, Tiffany Amber, Duro Oluwo, Orange Culture and Bloke Nigeria — a genderless artisanal luxury label — are only a few on the list. Not only are their assemblages incredible, but they transcend through time, disrupting existing narratives and social constructs of what it means to be ‘modest’ or ‘cool’. The latter additionally pushes the importance of genderless clothing through unconventional pieces that are nothing short of extraordinary.
Recently, Nigerian designers, Kenneth Ize and Mowalola made huge waves in the fashion industry by collaborating with iconic fashion houses. Karl Lagerfeld — the synonymous label of the infamous designer behind Chanel for decades — has dished up a capsule collection with Kenneth Ize whose vibrant, unique pieces are reverent of local craftsmanship. Similarly, Mowalola has been appointed as the Design Director for the upcoming Yeezy x Gap collaboration hitting stores in 2021.
Growing up in an era where locally made or sourced items were limited to trad, a cultural shift has reimagined the ‘Made in Africa’ tag. Local fabrics and techniques such as Adire and Aso Oke have been intertwined with Western silhouettes. This has forged a whole new aesthetic that Nigerian designers have been at the forefront of.
In a similar likeness, designers such as Adebayo Oke Lawal from Orange Culture are changing the mould of fashion. By creating traditionally feminine silhouettes for men, the binaries for gender-expression are being explored as men are encouraged to embrace their femininity — a subject which may be considered taboo in a country like Nigeria.
By fostering the idea that luxury exists at home, these new-age designers are changing the narrative of what it means to be Nigerian and everything that comes with it. The current rise of the alte movement is uniting people with a desire to experiment with their identities and exist beyond traditional strongholds on how one is expected to exist. This is especially true when it comes to fashion choices.
While our stylistic influences were often shaped by actors and influential artists from pop culture, the youth refuse to be boxed and are using their fashion choices to break barriers. There is a rebellion and liberation — across sexuality and other niches — that the diaspora has had a deep unwavering desire for. The belief that clothing should be used to mask real forms and portray the ‘ideal’ persona is a dead notion.
I believe fashion in our society today has become what it’s actually meant to be, no more pretending or facades. Designers have begun adopting styles and prints influenced by the past and recreating them to suit today’s culture. As the world starts to celebrate culture, the fashion industry seems to be taking more pride in our heritage — highlighting the African identity and carving signature identities that stand out.
Needless to say, 2020 has been a historical year. Most especially with the outpour of #BlackLivesMatter across social media, the long awaited reckoning for industries built on Black talents came. While it was fulfilling to see legendary cultural shifts, it’s truly riveting and exciting to see Nigerian designers breaking boundaries and building their own tables that provide more seats for the community.
As an aspiring designer, it inspires me to push myself to see beyond the boundaries of Nigeria or Africa, and imbibe the saying ‘the sky is my limit’. It reminds me that staying true to my identity, culture and people will keep me authentic and if there’s anything our generation finds attractive, it’s authenticity.
I believe these distinct elements are widening the horizon on African designers — such standout identities make them so damn badass and therefore, too hard to ignore. By involving their communities in their creative journey, they push their resources to new heights while creating roles for their friends and family who are videographers, models, photographers, stylists and more.
