Doubtful Sound

Brian Jarmon
thejarmon
Published in
3 min readMar 31, 2019

Lush green rainforest walls rose up dramatically around us on all sides dwarfing our seemingly small vessel.

Fiordland National Park, known for its glacier-carved fiords, has two main attractions: Milford Sound and Doubtless Sound. Being that Milfrod Sound is the more mainstream attraction of the two, we opted for Doubtless Sound.

As we sailed along the black waters it felt at times as if we were in the clouds despite being on the water. Salty sea mist sprayed on our faces as we gazed in awe. I wouldn’t have been surprised if a Pterodactyl had flown by given that the scenery resembled a long lost land beyond time.

Our Real Journeys guide regaled us with countless stories as he led us out towards the Tasman Sea. Most notably the tale of how back in 1770 Captain Cook had first dubbed the area Doubtful Harbour because he deemed that it doubtful he could sail back out once inside the sound.

Although the skies were steely grey, the seas were remarkable calm and our captain was able to take us out into the Tasman Sea to view a colony of New Zealand fur seals.

Known as “the place of silence,” it is without a doubt one of the most breathtaking places I have ever been. Unfortunately our guide’s anecdotes never seemed to stop, and there came a time where I needed to zone out and take in the blissful scenery without him blaring in my ear. This mix proved to be the perfect soundtrack for that blustery morning on the water.

The day prior we had spent the night in Manapouri. Given that we had an early morning the next day we opted for a hike in nearby Te Anau. The hike from Rainbow Reach to Shallow Bay and back took us about four hours.

Along the way the path was dotted with red and white spotted toadstools. Part of the Kepler Track, one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks,” the hike took us up and over rainforested hills. We encountered another overly friendly black robin. Unclear if that’s normal behavior for those birds, or if they dig my father for some odd reason.

Our Airbnb, the Retro Retreat, was a cozy little time capsule equipped with a vintage Lowrey organ and a fireplace. After grilling up some lamb chops I poured myself a nice glass of Duty Free Balvenie Scotch and jammed on that organ until it was time for bed.

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