LUNCH BREAK: Fancy Franks From A SoHo Pop-Up
We celebrated National Hot Dog Day, Dog Haus-style
The hot dog is a humble food — relatively uncontroversial (besides the debate of whether or not it constitutes a sandwich), simple to make, and difficult to mess up. A staple at ball games and barbecues, hot dogs are not attention seekers in the culinary world. However, it’s this simplicity that allows the hot dog to play dress up.
Swapping out mustard for a spicy basil aioli or ketchup for actual tomatoes elevates the hot dog’s status, and that’s exactly what Dog Haus in SoHo does with their franks. The California-based chain set up shop at Chef’s Club Counter in June, and they’ll be there until September for all your fancy hot dog needs. Their sausages, which come in meat or non-meat options, are served on toasted King’s Hawaiian rolls with a “build” (aka toppings) of your choice. The topping flavors stick true to their quirky names, like Hawaii 5-Oy and One Night In Bangkok.
In celebration of National Hot Dog Day, Dog Haus was offering free beef hot dogs (probably the only way to celebrate this food holiday). Initially, we were feeling lukewarm about hot dogs for lunch, but you never say no to complimentary food so we had to give them a try. When we got there, the line was wrapped around the corner with people eagerly awaiting their free franks. The wait was made more bearable by employees who came out with samples of different sausages, cups of cold water, and little shots of their Salty Malty milkshake (honestly worth going just for this). Once inside, we ordered our hot dogs, sat down with our numbers, and waited patiently for our food to come out.
When editorial associate Shaun’s milkshake arrived first, she audibly gasped at its sticky, malty goodness — this verbal affirmation was a sign of even better things to come. Our long awaited hot dogs finally made their debut, and the first bites led to happy tastebuds all around. Who knew a food this simple being could be transformed into something so fresh, so satisfying, so photogenic?
Frankly, the bar is not set too high for hot dogs, but there is no doubt that Dog Haus is on their game. The only reservation our group had about returning was the price of a dog, starting at $9. But for hot dog connoisseurs who are looking for something a little more exciting and highbrow, Dog Haus is the place to go.
Staff Tasting Notes
Allie: The Sooo Cali was sooo good. Let’s break this dog down. The toasted bun brought joy to my heart because sweet, soft bread is made ten times better with a little extra crunch. If they messed up my order and only handed me those toasty rolls in the cardboard container, I wouldn’t even be mad. Moving on. The sausage had a nice snap to it — none of that rubbery, soft nonsense — and it was topped with arugula, sliced avocado, tomato, crispy onions, and a spicy basil aioli. Without the sauce, the hot dog might’ve been a bit underwhelming, but the light heat and creaminess made it a delight to eat. Also, any food topped with a pile of fried onions is bound to be delicious.
Would I pay full price for this dog? Probably not, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye out for more free franks next year when this holiday rolls around again.
Nana: After scanning the menu a million times and taking the entire wait in line to decide what I wanted, I finally blurted out “I’d like the Little Mule” to the cashier guy. I’m a sucker for anything topped with a runny egg so this was the hot dog for me. With white American cheese, avocado, pickled jalapeños, cotija cheese, and chipotle mayo in every bite, I wasn’t mad. The beef sausage itself was just okay, but I still can’t get over the toasted Hawaiian rolls — genius.
Shaun: Like a true millennial, I’m an avocado queen. As a topping, avocado has a way of making anything feel like comfort food while still remaining light and summery. And I’ll be honest, I’m not a true hot dog fan. I think they are gross in appearance, taste, and texture. Yuck. But the Sooo Cali dog happened to be appealing in person, with crunchy onions lining the bun and creamy, spicy aioli to counter the one thing I hate about hot dogs — the actual hot dog. (What are they even made out of?) I imagine, too, that the dog would have been similar to those hot dogs you get at school events — you know, the ones that look grey and sad for some reason — had it not been decked out in Hawaiian rolls and topped with fresh sliced tomatoes.
If you’re someone that likes the experience of multiple flavors and textures at once, this fast-casual restaurant seems to have a menu that speaks to a range of flavor profiles. I’m a little mad that I too didn’t get a fried egg on my dog, but I’m not one to cry about missed hot dog opportunities.
Time for a lunch break? Check out Dog Haus for yourself at 62 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012
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