My favorite roast salmon recipe is by Nigella Lawson

I’ve made Nigella Lawson’s roast salmon recipe from her book At My Table at least 250 times. I love this recipe so much that I won’t hear of salmon being cooked any other way. It always comes out flaky, moist and full of flavor with a little aniseed crunch from the fennel seeds and a pop of heat from the Aleppo pepper (and when I’m at my most exhausted I serve it with microwave ready-made buttery mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli so that I feel like I’m giving my family a very healthy meal even when I can hardly keep my eyes open). My two-year-old daughter loves it too, but then she loves all fish, give her scallops, shrimp, tuna, trout or halibut and she’ll hoover it up within minutes begging me for more.

Really the only reason I don’t cook salmon every other night is because I’m feeling increasingly guilty about buying something that may be potentially harming our marine ecosystem. Salmon used to be a treat, now I see salmon everywhere, from smoked salmon canapes at corporate events, to salmon sushi at the supermarket checkout — on sale and almost past its sell buy date, by the way, because no one has wanted to buy it — that it no longer feels special.

I try to buy a side of salmon from my local fishmonger when possible which allows me to ask when and where it was caught and its journey to the counter, rather than from a…