The Dirty Truth About Sunscreen

Sara Alam
Think Dirty
Published in
5 min readJul 18, 2022

The Summer’s sizzling sunrays are here and masses of vacationers are headed to the beach, but this year there’s reason to stop and think before slathering on the sunscreen. The recent scandals surrounding sunscreen have given us all a reason to pause and reconsider just what it is we’re exposing our skin to.

But are we facing an all-or-nothing situation?

Do we risk exposing our skin to carcinogenic ingredients just to provide a layer of protection, or, do we just bask our oiled-up skin in the rays and ignore it altogether?

Before we make any rash decisions, let’s look at the dirty truth surrounding this controversy and uncover some important insights.

The Details

While sunscreen is one of the most highly regulated beauty products, it seems some brands just slipped through the cracks. In July 2021 Johnson & Johnson voluntarily recalled five of their sunscreen products due to the presence of benzene. This just accelerated the negative press caused by the Purito scandal and shook the entire sunscreen industry.

What is the Purito Scandal?

Purito Sunscreen is a Korean-made sunscreen originally touted for its lightweight feel and skin protectant ingredients. Their Centella Green Level Safe Sun was rated at an SPF 50+ and was said to include two UV filters:

· Uvinal A Plus — used to help filter UVA rays

· Uvinal T150 — used to absorb ultraviolet light

In the beginning, this sunscreen garnered major media attention because it was a great skincare option to include in your daily regimen. However, when stories began to surface about people getting sunburned, even with proper usage, tests found that its actual SPF was 19, not 50+ as advertised.

Two more independent European labs came up with the same result, sending shockwaves through the media. But users weren’t just talking about Purito, other trusted brands were being revealed as not offering the protection they were marketing with their products. “For example, in 2016, 23 out of 60 tested sunscreens from the U.S. had less than half the SPF that was labelled.”

These findings rocked the sunscreen industry and had consumers questioning whether any products could be trusted.

The Situation

But by looking closer, you gain a better understanding. First, the companies did what they were supposed to do, they recalled products that were unfit for public use. In doing so, they took responsibility for making it right. Also, it is important to note, that while the US has strict criteria for testing and ultimate approval of these products, those criteria change from Country to Country. In the case of Purito, their products were developed and tested by South Korean standards — a different standard altogether.

This controversy shed much-needed light on the inconsistencies within the regulation of the sunscreen industry as a whole. See what was discovered is that in Korea, sunscreens are considered functional cosmetics, whereas, in the US, the FDA categorizes them as a drug. Because of this disparity, ingredients take much longer to be approved by US standards than by Korean. Just because an ingredient is found to be non-FDA approved, doesn’t necessarily mean it is unsafe, it may mean the ingredient hasn’t completed all of the testing required to make it FDA approved. In the US there are only 16 sunscreen ingredients the FDA has marked its approval on; in Asia and Europe, the list of allowable ingredients is much longer.

The Truth

Put simply, the lack of proper sun protection, over time, can put you at risk for cancer or premature aging. One cancer study showed that the use of sunscreens with an SPF rate greater than 15 can reduce melanoma risk compared to those with a lower SPF rating. The CDC also recommends daily use of SPF 15 or greater to lower the risk of developing skin cancer. You sun lovers out there, keep in mind the recommendation for all-day protection says it is necessary to reapply:

  • When you are out in the sun for more than 2 hours
  • After swimming or sweating
  • After towelling off

The Buzz

Now that the dust has settled a bit around the controversy, what’s the buzz all about? Just about every responsible skincare line is going to remind you that there are still some great products out there that don’t ask you to sacrifice cleanliness for protection and here are a few taking that seriously:

  • Zatik Naturals Sunscreen — This product from Zatik Naturals is a vitamin and mineral-based sunscreen offering daily UVA and UVB protection, while at the same time offering facial hydration. It is lightweight and fragrance-free and formulated with mineral-based non-nano zinc oxide, vitamins, calming organic extracts, and oils.
  • OLITA Baby Organic Sunscreen Lotion SPF50 — From OLITA we have a quick-absorbing option that makes it super easy to apply on the little ones. The ultra-gentle SPF 50 formula is fragrance-free and non-toxic so it is a clear winner for sensitive skin at any age.
  • Babo Botanicals Sheer Zinc Continuous Spray Sunscreen SPF 30 — With this option from Babo Botanicals, you get the comfort of a lotion sunscreen paired up with the convenience of a continuous spray. This easy-to-apply formula is enriched with aloe vera and sunflower oil to soothe and moisturize and it provides 80 minutes of water resistance.
  • Grown Alchemist Natural Hydrating Sunscreen — Grown Alchemist offers a vegan option with this invisible, lightweight, sunscreen that blends effortlessly to the skin. It features an innovative ultra-sheer natural Zinc Oxide that provides broad-spectrum protection from damaging UVA/B rays.

The Conclusion

Basking in the sun has its risks and so does picking the wrong products for sun-kissed skin care. If you stay out in the sun, you need to wear some form of protection, so why not pay better attention to what you’re putting on.

If you want to take the guesswork out of the whole ordeal, check out our verified clean skincare brands here, and pick one that’s right for you

And Happy Summer Sunbathing to All!

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