The Truth About Russian Manicures and What They Do To Your Cuticles

If you’ve been on TikTok lately, you’ve probably seen videos both flaunting and questioning Russian manicures.

The “Russian” manicure is a relatively new technique that completely removes the cuticle, resulting in flawless-looking fingertips. It’s believed to have originated in Russia in the 1990s to help manicures last longer in cold, harsh weather. From there, it gained popularity as it spread across Europe.

The thing is, cuticle removal risks infection, which is what makes Russian manicures so controversial. We dug a little deeper into the subject to write this article, so you can make an informed decision about whether to try a Russian manicure for yourself.

What is a Russian Manicure?

A Russian manicure is known for its clean, Photoshop-like finish, but the term actually refers more to technique — the way it’s performed — rather than the way your manicure will actually look.

A Russian manicure, which is also known as an e-file manicure, dry manicure, or combination manicure, emphasizes cuticle removal with nippers, scissors or a drill-like tool.

The Difference Between a Russian Manicure and a Regular Manicure

Technique is only one of the differences between a Russian manicure and a regular manicure.

A regular manicure begins with the nail technician removing your previous polish with an acetone cotton round and soaking your hands in warm water to soften your cuticles.

In a Russian manicure, your hands are dry the entire time. Your technician uses an electric file to remove polish, and nippers, scissors or drill-like tools to remove the cuticles and the skin surrounding your nails. Your nails are then filed and coated with a base gel coat and colour.

All that work means a Russian manicure takes a longer time to complete (about 1.5 hours) than a regular manicure. It’s also pricier ($70-$80 US) than a regular manicure, but you can expect it to last three to five weeks, compared to one to two weeks for a regular manicure.

What’s the Big Deal About Russian Manicures?

The Russian manicure involves removing as much cuticle and skin surrounding the nail as possible. This leaves more room for polish, and results in a clean, photo-finish look.

This technique also helps extend the amount of time between manicures, because the skin and nail take longer to grow back than with regular manicures.

Safety Concerns Around Russian Manicures

We already mentioned that cuticle removal risks infection. That’s because your cuticle is an extension of the protective proximal nail fold.

The proximal nail fold is the skin that borders the bottom of your nail. It keeps the nail in place, and acts as a barrier to protect it. When that’s gone, it’s an invitation to bacteria to come and make itself comfortable in your skin.

That bacteria can then cause paronychia (a nail infection). Paronychia can also lead to both temporary and permanent nail dystrophy, or nails that are discoloured, thickened, or deformed.

Russian Manicures vs Trimming Your Cuticles

You may now be wondering if there’s much difference between a Russian manicure and simply trimming your cuticles. We have the answer:

A Russian manicure uses a technique that’s more intricate and precise, whereas traditional cuticle trimming involves pushing them back with a cuticle pusher or wooden stick (which is considered safe), and trimming any excess with a nipper.

Yet they both serve the same goal: to give your nails a “clean” finish.

When Did Cuticle Trimming Become Popular?

Let’s go back in time, to around 1875. This is when patents for the modern nail clipper began to appear. Over time, its durability and performance (and no doubt, consumer appeal) improved, thanks to better design and materials.

An ad in the November 1917 issue of Vogue suggests cuticle trimming had become a popular practice by then. “Don’t cut the cuticle,” an ad touting at-home manicure products warned. This may imply cuticle trimming has been a safety concern for more than 100 years.

Are Russian Manicures Worth the Risk?

Ultimately, only you can decide if a Russian manicure is worth the risk after having done your research.

The good news is, we know what those risks are, and how to prevent them (more on this below). One significant way to protect yourself is by having an experienced and licensed nail technician do your Russian manicure.

Are Russian Manicures a Scam?

TikTokers who have shown off less-than-desirable Russian manicure results have questioned if they’re just a scam. If you’re wondering the same thing, here are things to look out for:

· Location: Please don’t have a Russian manicure done just anywhere. Seek out a salon that offers this service.

· Sanitation: Visit the salon and take a look around. Is it clean?

· Expertise: Ask your nail technician about his or her training in Russian manicures. Reputable salons will require training, a certificate, licence, and years of experience. Ask the technician what he or she uses to sterilize the equipment. Thumbs up if it’s a hospital-grade disinfectant.

· Customer satisfaction. Check out reviews previous customers have given the salon or technician.

The Last Word on Russian Manicures

Russian manicures can result in beautiful nails. They involve cutting cuticles, which can expose you to infection. You can help protect yourself by choosing a trained, experienced and licensed nail technician.

The time and extra cost involved in Russian manicures (compared to regular manicures) may be well worth the result: fabulous fingertips that last three to five weeks.

Continue keeping yourself safe as you tend to your beauty needs. Download the Think Dirty app. You can take it with you shopping to scan products’ barcodes and see if they include any harmful ingredients!

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