Normalizing Cultural Ideals to a White Society: Racial and Ethnic Minorities in the Media
Written by: Sonya Cicci
In Re-Reading Popular Culture, media ethnographer Joke Hermes argues that popular culture allows one to share their thoughts, emotions and deliberations in the community to which they belong. Best-selling teen print magazine, Seventeen Magazine is a piece of popular culture that does exactly this. In doing so, it helps readers to relate and belong and to bond and connect with their surrounding community. One’s individual criticism of a particular piece of popular culture, whether style/beauty politics or simple advice that Seventeen offers, shapes readerships hopes that they hold for both themselves and society in a way that they believe is proper. Seventeen Magazine encourages readers to act as cultural citizens, as Hermes defines as “the process of bonding and community building, and reflection on that bonding that is implied in partaking of text-related practices of reading, consuming, celebrating and criticizing that is offered in the realm of popular culture (Hermes 10).” Seventeen Magazine is the piece popular culture we are viewing and while it does offer some sense of community building by consuming and criticizing its content, it also does the exact opposite. Seventeen Magazine lacks to incorporate different varieties of race and ethnicities into their magazine, thus driving the minorities of other cultures to an extreme. When viewing not only Seventeen’s but various other mainstream magazine’s cover photos, the minimal representation of different cultures are vastly edited to match the white ideals of society. While Seventeen Magazine does follow the general idea of cultural citizenship by bringing races who are white “together,” the lack of integration of other races and ethnicities further distances the minorities of our society to this sense of “belonging” within a community, and therefore refutes an aspect of Hermes idea that popular culture is a form of cultural citizenship that offers this bonding among our “neighbors” at the community in which we live.
According to Puma, a psychology student published by Danielle Dirks, “The huge over-representation of white cover-girls (83%) and the huge under-representation of women of color (16%) is very problematic for a magazine such as Seventeen that claims to promote self-confidence and success while at the same time seeking an audience whose views of what society deems worthy are molded by what they see in these magazines (Puma).” As the audience consumes information provided by these magazines, without realizing it, readers self-reflect on themselves by incorporating what they see directly into their lives. This includes a wide range of politics; from style politics involving the latest trend or fashion tip, to simple guidelines for flirting or discussions that one can relate to, the audience uses this piece of popular culture to answer the quandaries that inevitably spring up in their lives. Drawn from Mepham, Hermes states that these are the communities “usable stories.” These stories create rules in society. No better stated, “Rules involve a notion of what is and what is not acceptable, what can and cannot be accepted. Rules refer to the norms and of necessity that lead to inclusion and exclusion (Hermes 9).” Usable stories are used to shape the readers aspirations for not only themselves but for society in general. Integrating these “usable stories” into their life is essential to building a community in which the contestants can relate, moreover adapt to a new idea or movement. This is apparent when seventeen first incorporates a different race as their cover photo.
It wasn't until January 1969-1973 when Seventeen Magazine acknowledged race; with one cover asking, “Can teens ease racial tensions? (Hu, Jane).” Here, Seventeen is promoting different races and ethnicities to connect with one another in their community. At the time, this most likely influenced and re-shaped the readers thoughts on racial exclusion. It is this form of cultural citizenship whose goal is to set up or create certain rules of appropriate demeanor within society in which the readers compare, reflect and re-evaluate what they’re doing in their lives and further alter their actions to what is promoted within the magazine. Once diminishing racial tension becomes the norm and accepted upon the majority of the community, people are more likely to conform to their neighbor’s thoughts for the sole purpose of belonging. Therefore, an idea that was not formally accepted, will then become a “social norm.” Although, as beneficial as this sounds, these useable stories don’t necessarily have all positive influences on society today. For example, body image.
The way we perceive body image from Seventeen reveals a contradictory idea that supports the claim society further drives the minorities of other ethnicities in our nation to an extreme. On any topic covered, one takes what they see in these magazines and directly compares it to themselves. Seventeen magazine gives tips ranging from “How to Deal with a Jerk,” and “Signs that you’re EX wants you Back,” to “How to get Skinny” and “The Best Makeup for your Eyes.” Hermes suggests that the readers use magazines like this to, “exercise their fantasies about problem solving and coping scenarios for practical and emotional situations that life might land them in, which they felt empowered them (Hermes 12).” Many people become self-conscious and emotional about their body image. When viewing Seventeen Magazine, people fantasize about being “that girl” on the front page. Many think, “She’s skinny, has the perfect complexion and is just downright gorgeous.” Maybe the advice on dieting or beauty tips might solve their problems to achieve the unrealistic goal of body image that Seventeen promotes. Interestingly enough, those “ideal” body images we encounter within Seventeen affects the way white Americans perceive their own body, even if Seventeen does claim to promote self-confidence. Remarkably, this does not apply to other certain races or ethnicities.
Psychologist’s studies indicate that the “thin idealization” of women indicate a measure of women’s beauty. According to Camille R. Kraeplin, “research has linked thin-ideal imagery in popular mass media to negative body image as well as eating disorders, including anorexia and bulimia, lowering our body satisfaction, self-esteem, and self-confidence after being exposed.” This is mainly targeted to white individuals. The socio-cultural model of eating pathology believes that races such as African American and Latino women are at a lower risk to developing these eating disorders. Why? Because we see less of a representation of different ethnicites of women in main-stream magazines, like Seventeen, in which these minority groups feel less pressured to be thin. Simply put, if the magazine doesn't represent them, they probably don’t directly relate themselves to it.
National statistics show that young teen Latina’s are more prone to obesity than young white girls (Kraeplin). While it is good minorities aren't as affected by media’s projection of body image, one could argue that it pushes them further towards an extreme minority. What’s socially accepted is “thin.” Hence, “thin is in.” Many believe that humanity no longer see a plus-size women as attractive. If races such as Latino’s and African American’s aren't influenced by what’s acceptable for not only body image but for example, style and beauty, hypothetically speaking they might not “fit in” as well as they could with today’s current society. After all, it is these politics that create the rules to which mold what can or cannot be accepted. Body image and style is a feature of these rules and due to the under representation of racial integration within Seventeen, other races may not apply these “rules” or norms of what we want to achieve in society, to themselves. So, can you see how popular culture could distant other races and ethnicities in feeling a sense of “belonging” to society? This isn't only centered towards body image, but may regard global issues or debates among a community and so on. If other ethnicities don’t follow these norms or rules, essentially, they are not following the rules of being a cultural citizen and thus, creating a set boundary that excludes them from the society in which they live.
Hermes believes that popular culture blurs the borderline, or in this case the boundary to which separates people based upon their age, gender or ethnicity (Hermes 3). In some cases this is true (for example, social media does this work), but in not representing different ethnicities in Seventeen, we reveal this boundary. According to the article, Ethnic Minorities and the Media Changing Cultural Boundaries, “Boundaries define the imaginations of minds and communities—they serve simultaneously to include some of us, exclude others and to condition social relations and the formation of identities (Cottle).”
New beauty trends and fashions are consistently changing within society. Certain trends become the norm in a community, until a different norm finally replaces it. Often, these norms are advertised within magazines, especially Seventeen. Hence, why many say “stick with the classics.” “Classics” as in, articles of clothing that never go out of style. It’s rare one will see a person wear an article of clothing not from their time. If they do, they are obviously far-fetched from the norms of what’s considered acceptable. This demonstrates the idea that over time, boundaries eventually become deeply embedded within the way we view the structures and institutions of our society. If another ethnicity is wearing a style that represents their culture and not the American culture, it is quite easy to tell them apart. This reiterates the point that if we don’t fairly represent the minorities of society in magazines, a range of borderlines that Hermes considers “blurred” will harden into exclusionary barriers. Exclusions are based on the ideologies and representations of girls we see in Seventeen Magazine. Ultimately, if one doesn’t compare or relate themselves to what Seventeen is promoting, it may exclude the certain individual from belonging and connecting within society.
Images of white women dominate most American media, especially when playing the role of the “desirable women.” Although we do see minimal representation of women in color incorporated in Seventeen, it’s is further narrowed to a certain type of black African American woman; one that fits with the white ideals of beauty in American society. These ideals include the “paler,” skinny and gorgeous yet unrealistic image of the “average woman,” just of a different race. This “average woman” sets unrealistic expectations that the audience attempts to live up to. Beyoncé’s cover for Seventeen magazine accurately represents the white ideals of beauty in American society. Not only Beyoncé, but for “Jennifer Lopez, Queen Latifah, Rihanna, Jennifer Hudson, Halley Berry and many other women of color have been anglicized and whitewashed overtime, with lighter-colored, straighter hair, lighter makeup, colored contacts and often shrinking figures (Beauty).” While this is seen in Seventeen, it is also predominately apparent in other mainstream women’s magazines like L’Oreal and Covergirl, just to name a few.
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As one can see, this “racial incorporation” that magazines claim to promote is further narrowed by editing the model’s unique characteristics to white ideals. In the picture to the left we see Beyoncé’s real skin tone. Not only seen in L’Oreal, but in Seventeen Magazine and Covergirl it is obvious that these industries use Photoshop to alter Beyoncé’s real look. In all pictures her skin is lightened, her appearance focuses on her “fitness” and sex appeal, her hair is straitened and her body is slimmed to achieve this dominant white ideal (Reichard). Seventeen Magazine pledged not to digitally alter body sizes or face shapes of young women featured in its magazine (Hu, Elise). Specifically, Seventeen insinuates, “We vow to never change girls’ body or face shapes (Botelho).” While this is good, shouldn’t they also pledge to not digitally alter skin tone as well?
It is apparent that magazine industries fail to keep up with the nation’s racial shift. According to a blogger, Raquel Riechard, more 36% of our nation’s female population are women of color (18% of entire U.S population). The rampant in media involved with Photoshopping their models normalizes our cultural ideals to a white society, excluding all other races and ethnicities. The distorted reality we encounter with beauty and body image in mainstream magazines creates an unattainable standard set by media, and most often, “these standards are based on oppressive, power-laden ideals of whiteness (Beauty).” Even when the racial and ethnic percentages in America are steadily rising, we still continue to limit ethnic and racial integration into mainstream magazines, inadequately representing the nation’s women. The question that arises is, why?
Latina Magazine: Cover Representations
Simply put, for profit. British Vogue editor, Alexandra Shulman states that “Black cover girls don’t sell as well as white cover girls do (Reichard).” Many industry leaders assume that American’s will not buy their magazines if they don’t feature white women. Statistics have shown this to be true. In 2010, all top-selling magazines represented the white, thin and able-bodied norm (Riechard). Media perpetrates these white ideals because they are not only competing with regulatory authorities, competitors and consumers, but they are competing in unpredictable times and volatile markets (Cottle). In order to persist in a competitive marketplace means that the industry must seek the most audience members possible. If this means underrepresenting other ethnic and racial backgrounds, then so be it.
While people perceive magazines like this to be “racist,” even readership profiles and comments for example, mgregs suggest that “it is just a quantitative strategy of what consumers want to see in order to make the big bucks (Riechard).” But, if magazines like Seventeen are only predominately representing white culture in their cover photos solely because it draws in more viewers to whom it can relate too, as Seventeen “seeks for an audience whose views of what society deems worthy,” then couldn’t one argue that it wouldn’t draw in as many viewers of different cultures and ethnicities who aren’t worthy of what the magazines promote? This is why other ethnicities choose to read magazines that closer relate to themselves. Like Latina Magazine, where they further expand their audience base to a variety of races and ethnicities. We can see this by just viewing their cover photos, and it is obvious that the black ideals of society are not compromised to the white ones.
Our nation has undergone a racial shift and still yet Seventeen and other mainstream magazines inadequately represent other races and ethnicities. Even when magazines choose to represent another ethnicity, they further edit, anglicize and whitewash their ethnic ideals to match America’s white culture. Magazines are a piece of popular culture that are supposed to bring people together and create a community in which sets the rules and so do forms of acceptance and belonging. Because of the lack of integration of other ethnicities, minorities cease to relate to magazines like Seventeen. If one cannot relate, then they miss out on important aspects of American culture that essentially, bring a community together. With time, this could separate not only a specific individual but a certain ethnicity. Eventually this may harden into an exclusionary barrier that sets them apart from the community to which they belong.
Works Consulted:
“Beauty WhiteWashed: How White Ideals Exclude Women of Color.” Beauty Redefined Blog, 1 Feb. 2011. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://www.beautyredefined.net/beauty-whitewashed-how-white-ideals-exclude-women-of-color/
Botelho, Greg. “Seventeen Magazine Vows not to alter images, to ‘celebrate every kind of beauty.” Cable News Network, 6 July 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://inamerica.blogs.cnn.com/2012/07/06/seventeen-magazine-vows-not-to-alter-images-to-celebrate-every-kind-of-beauty/
Cottle, Simon. “Ethnic Minorities and the Media.” Open University Press, 2000. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CDgQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fww.mcgraw-hill.co.uk%2Fopenup%2Fchapters%2F0335202705.pdf&ei=37lCU7vMNe-nsATHyoCoDA&usg=AFQjCNE6hV9m7xbK1ecS_oaB_CvUkepYXg
Hu, Elise. “Seventeen Magazine Takes No-Photoshop Pledge After 8th-Grader’s Campaign.” NPR’s News, 5 July 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2012/07/05/156342683/seventeen-magazine-takes-no-photoshop-pledge-after-8th-graders-campaign
Hu, Jane. “When We Were ‘Seventeen’: A History In 47 Covers.” THE AWL, 28 Sept. 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://www.theawl.com/2012/09/when-we-were-seventeen
Kraeplin, Camille. “Minority Females & the Thin Ideal: Ethnic versus Mainstream Fashion Magazines and the Effects on Acculturation & Body Image in Young Black & Latino Women. JRWG, June 2011. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. https://www.academia.edu/1508506/Minority_Females_and_the_Thin_Ideal_Ethnic_versus_Mainstream_Fashion_Magazines_and_Their_Effects_on_Acculturation_and_Body_Image_in_Young_Black_and_Latino_Women
Puma. “The Whiteness of Seventeen Magazine.” Department of Sociology/Occidental College. 17 Oct. 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://race.iheartsociology.com/2012/10/the-whiteness-of-seventeen-magazine/
Reichard, Raquel. “Cover Girl Controversy: Why Aren’t Women of Color On Newsstands?” Feminspire, 16 Aug. 2013. Web. 29 Apr. 2014. http://feminspire.com/cover-girlconsumers-buy-white-ideal/
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