San Felipe, “the Little Drinking Village With a Fishing Problem” | To-Do List
Things to do in San Felipe, Mexico — attractions, lodging, and dining
Story by M.E. Law, Photos by Rick Schettino
Rick and I were invited to perform at the San Felipe Music Festival (called “Meeting of the Mindless” at the time). Unfortunately, the concert was canceled at the last minute.
We decided to make the trip regardless and embarked on the 6-hour road trip from San Diego to San Felipe, Mexico.
We crossed the border at Calexico and wound our way through bustling Mexicali. There is but one long and winding road to San Felipe, nestled between the Colorado Desert and the Sea of Cortez. The highway snakes through a dramatic vista of black and red mountains. Their stark menacing beauty contrasts wildly with the brilliant blue desert sky.
As you near the northern tip of the Sea of Cortez keep your eyes peeled for the sparkling salt flats in the desert — remnants of a time when the narrow straight was much further inland.
When you arrive at the outlying area north of San Felipe, you’ll observe numerous Campos and gated communities dotting the side of the highway. Once you’ve driven through the Arches, you’ll know you’ve arrived in San Felipe proper.
In spite of its utterly charming lack of sophistication, this unassuming Mexican hamlet has been a popular tourist destination for decades. San Felipe is most decidedly not a “resort” town, although there have been several gentrification attempts through the years. The “little drinking village with a fishing problem” — as expats like to call it — is stalwart in its dedication to maintaining an unpretentious demeanor.
San Felipe was founded in 1916. Its entire economy was based on the abundant marine life flourishing in the Sea of Cortez. The arresting landscape of “desert meets sea” is compelling in its austerity. This rare communion is responsible for some crazy-beautiful sunrises!
You’ll want to get up early to witness this dazzling multi-hued display over the water. The sunsets offer a different palette when viewed by the seaside. The evening skies over the water are bathed in soft silvery light with delicate swaths of periwinkle and cotton-candy pink. When these gentle tones are reflected in thousands of tidal pools, the effect is pure magic!
The overriding intrigue extends to the Sea of Cortez, as this tiny body of water has one of the most diverse marine oases on the planet. The local inhabitants of San Felipe have thrived for over a century, always relying heavily on the Sea’s unwavering benevolence.
Today, the locals continue to fish the waters for shrimp, in fact, San Felipe hosts an annual Shrimp Festival the first weekend in November. Tourists can enjoy the delectable crustaceans in mind-blowing tacos, fajitas, ceviche, and many other local dishes. These succulent beauties are almost three inches long and taste like lobster! Seafood lovers will be in heaven here!
The extreme biodiversity of the Sea of Cortez is due to the minerals and organic matter deposited for millions of years into the sea via the Colorado River. The combination of chlorophyll and chemicals provided a perfect environment, encouraging the prolific growth of microscopic marine plankton — a staple of many sea creatures.
This environment coupled with the warm temperatures enticed multiple species of tropical fish into the tourmaline waters of the Sea of Cortez. This proliferation of marine life eventually lured many fishing aficionados to the little seaside village over the years. The biodiversity also takes shelling to a whole new level, as collectors will be astounded at the seemingly endless variety of seashells found along the rippling shores.
Another fascinating aspect of this region is the incredible tidal bore. San Felipe is 3 meters above sea level, and on a daily basis, experiences one of the largest tidal bores on the planet. When the 7-meter tide rolls out, you can walk more than a kilometer on the ocean floor, and it’s absolutely exhilarating!
Tourism is the second largest industry in San Felipe, with an average influx of 250,000 visitors annually, most coming from the U.S. and Canada, arriving between November and March.
San Felipe is also an extremely popular destination for college kids during Spring Break, and the local businesses and bars are booming during these times. Spring Break San Felipe tends to be overrun with raunchy rapscallions and obnoxious inebriates. It’s probably wise to plan your vacation accordingly to sidestep this drunken debacle (unless that’s your thing).
Be forewarned, there is distinct seediness apparent in some areas of the town and those hoods should be assiduously avoided.
Nonetheless, the beautiful beaches and miles of desert offer many options for those seeking solitude and a profound connection with nature. Here are some of my suggestions for a safe, pleasant stay in San Felipe.
San Felipe Malecon (Boardwalk)
The best introduction to this unique community is a languorous meander along the San Felipe Malecon at any time of the day or evening. You will absorb the wonder and whimsy as all your senses are simultaneously engaged.
The mingled aromas of the Malecon are unlike anything else — salty, sweet, and spicy smells are the olfactory backdrop to mariachi music, children’s laughter, loud, competing conversations, and waves lapping the shore.
Enjoy a freshly grilled fish taco at one of the many patios, hire a banana boat operator to take you on a spin around the harbor, or haggle with a good-natured street vendor. If none of those things appeal to you, simply sit and observe the surrounding beauty and boisterous displays of humanity.
Valle de Los Gigantes, (Valley of the Giant Sahuaros Cacti)
El Valle de Los Gigantes (the valley of the giant sahuaros cacti) is one of the incredible natural highlights in the San Felipe region, and should not be missed. This natural reserve is home to the thousand-year-old Cardon Cactus and is now world-famous after one of these giants was transported to Spain for Seville Expo ‘92.
The Valley is a short drive (30 minutes) from town, and the price of admission is affordable (60 pesos, although the price may have gone up a little.) If you don’t own a 4x4, it’s advisable to leave your vehicle in the lot and walk into the grounds.
Many of the smaller cacti are more than 150 years old and grow to a height of 60 feet. Interestingly, these behemoths grow exclusively in this area. You will want to have your camera ready — those towering beauties love having their picture taken.
I was compelled to do a tree asana in my photo op (standing on one leg, arms outstretched) to emulate the giant granddaddy of all cacti looming behind me!) Magnifico!!
The entrance to the park is located at 30.8771944°N 114.7407916°W.
Pristine Beaches
Beaches in San Felipe are most certainly not in short supply. The most popular spot is in front of the Malecon (boardwalk) smack dab in the center of town.
This beach is perfect for the hardcore partiers, and you can snag an ice-cold pina colada from any number of little trucks roaming the streets. These sweet creamy delights go down easily, but it’s prudent to savor them, as the booze content is sometimes double the normal amount — you just won’t taste it! I learned the hard way when I attempted to stand up after downing my fruity beverage (only one, I swear!) and promptly fell face-first in the sand!
The more remote beaches are found off of the south road leading out of town. These pristine shores are usually more peaceful and cleaner than the Malecon beach and only a 15-minute drive from town. There are many other beautiful beaches available in areas north of the village as well if you’re seeking quietude and relaxation.
Bonus: The Sea of Cortez has an extremely high salt and mineral content which makes for great buoyancy! You can float on the gently rolling waves with little to no effort for hours. But slather on the waterproof sunscreen unless you want to resemble a San Felipe sunrise!
Additionally, the healing waters are chock-full of minerals like magnesium. I must say that after a good soak in the warm sea I always experienced a significant lessening of anxiety and muscle pain.
Enjoy Hot Springs at Nearby Puertecitos
A day trip to the Puertecitos hot springs is well worth the 50-mile drive from San Felipe! Hot springs are usually found in mountainous areas, not on ocean coastlines. The black craggy rocks standing alongside the shore form natural pools, and as the tide rolls in, the boiling volcanic water becomes an ideal temperature for soaking. These rocks can be very slippery, so step carefully!
As I mentioned earlier, the Sea of Cortez has high levels of magnesium, known to be a natural muscle relaxant. Combine those healing minerals with the volcanic waters emanating from the hot springs, and it’s the perfect recipe for rejuvenation and relaxation. Be careful not to parboil yourself though!
You can drive your car into a designated parking lot and walk (three minutes) down to the shore. The admission price has gone up over the last few years, and I’ve heard some complaints from the locals. But high prices in Baja are still lower than US prices, and to experience these natural phenomena is well worth the admission cost.
The roads in the area are not well-tended, and it’s wise to drive with extreme caution. When we were there, Rick skillfully navigated the potholes (more like craters). It felt like a harrowing game of “Frogger.” However, once we were ensconced in the warm silky water, the evil potholes were long forgotten!
These activities are perfect for tourists seeking to enjoy a little local culture, color, and nature at little to no cost.
Lodging in San Felipe
When traveling to San Felipe, it’s a good idea to line up accommodations for your stay ahead of time. Some of the local hotels are somewhat overpriced for what you get — two tiny, scratchy towels and a bar of soap the size of a postage stamp. (You won’t find many amenities in cheap hotel rooms in San Felipe as things like TVs and clock radios are frequently stolen.)
We do have a couple of recommendations…
The Sand Dollar Hotel
If you’re looking for an all-inclusive, luxurious place at a reasonable cost, look no further than the Sand Dollar Hotel.
This gorgeous hotel is a quick three-mile drive from San Felipe proper, it’s gated, safe, and private with a stunning view of the famous twin mountains and jade-green waters of the Sea of Cortez.
There are steps leading down to the beach for easy access to the oceanfront, as well as a beautifully maintained swimming pool, workout room, and jacuzzi.
Every room has its own unique theme. The beds are large and super-comfy. All the units have two bedrooms, (some with bathtubs), fully equipped kitchens, a spacious living area, two TVs, air conditioning, WiFi, and private outdoor patios with barbecues. And most importantly — this place is PET FRIENDLY!!
Some of the rooms even have balconies overlooking the ocean that are gorgeously designed with a locally inspired esthetic.
The owner, John Trinkle is generous, kind, and helpful, as is his assistant, Francisco. They only wish their guests to have a splendid time during their stay and will gladly accommodate your needs.
Contact info and address:
A Puertecitos 5283, Villas de Las Palmas, 21850 San Felipe, B.C., Mexico
Phone: +52 686 123 7688
Airbnb vacation rentals in San Felipe
We’re big fans of Airbnb. You’ll find well over 100 San Felipe vacation rentals on Airbnb within walking distance of the Malecon. Accommodations range from funky converted trailers to luxury oceanfront condominiums.
The prices for vacation rentals in San Felipe are extremely reasonable. So if you’re looking for a place to cocoon for a while on the cheap, you’ll find San Felipe very affordable.
Dining in San Felipe
There are several options for everything from street carts to bar food to fine dining in San Felipe. Our favorite was La Vaquita.
La Vaquita Marina Norte
La Vaquita is a beloved — bordering on iconic — restaurant and music venue located in downtown San Felipe. This little charmer, renowned for its fabulous seafood extravaganzas and melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon, is located close to the center of town with plenty of parking.
La Vaquita has an almost cult-like following, due to its consistently excellent, mouthwatering, beautifully presented entrees and appetizers. The fish is local and supremely fresh, and every dish is a work of art.
The steamed clams are close to perfection, dripping with a buttery, garlicky wine sauce. The seafood volcano is bubbling over with intense flavors that pair beautifully with their frothy margaritas.
Rick and I gorged on a ginormous plate of coconut shrimp with a sweet dipping sauce, in between gulps of the aforementioned delicious margaritas. We were so impressed with this gastronomic delight, we found ourselves back at the same table 24 hours later, noshing on the same meal! If this was to be our version of Groundhog Day, so be it. (Although our cholesterol levels would be off the charts!)
No visit to San Felipe would be complete without a trip to this culinary oasis. Oh yes — the bands are always top-notch and take requests!
La Vaquita is located on Mar de Cortez Norte street which is a block north of the north end of the San Felipe Malecon.
Open Wednesday to Monday 12 to 10 pm.
Phone: +52 686 120 4468
Above: M.E. Law performs “Sands of San Felipe” at the 2014 Meeting of the Mindless San Felipe music festival.
San Felipe has much to offer, and we can’t cover it all in one article! Once the pandemic is over, this little village will be booming once again and we’ll keep you up to date on events.
San Felipe travel tips:
We want to make it clear that San Felipe is not for everyone. If you’re looking for a luxurious tropical vacation, San Felipe might not be for you. But if you’re into funky villages with a bit of local color or magnificent desert vistas, you might enjoy San Felipe as much as we did.
It’s always a good idea to have extra medical travel insurance when visiting another country. It’s not expensive and will give you peace of mind.
Additionally, it’s vital to have automobile insurance in Mexico. It’s the law. And American insurance will not be accepted if you get into an accident. Do NOT travel to Mexico without it. There are plenty of affordable options.
Enjoy more photos below. Stay safe and happy trails!
