Visiting Spain: Girona
Why visit? For starters, there’s tons of stuff for GoT fans, hikers and bikers, beach-goers, nature-lovers, and plus, there are the “xuixos”…
…and the Roca Brothers. And Dalí. Read on for more.
Medieval times
One hour and 15 minutes after boarding the train in Barcelona (38 minutes if you take the highspeed rail), you’ll arrive in the city of Girona, seeming that you have just gone back several hundred years, to a time when princes and princesses ruled the land and knights rode on horseback up and down its dusty Mediterranean mountain tops. Centuries-old limestone buildings juxtaposed against modern, upscale boutiques, artisanal shops, and haute cuisine eateries will make you feel like royalty.
Girona belongs to one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities, Catalunya, whose inhabitants speak both the regional dialect, Catalan, as well as Spanish (referred to as Castellano and not Español). Close to the French border, Girona is the largest city in Catalunya’s northern province by the same name. However, in spite of what I just told you, don’t expect anything too overwhelming; Girona’s urban population stands at around 100,000 and the entire city is no bigger than 25 square miles.
Quaint and quiet, you’ll encounter serenity and ease walking among its superbly kept-up medieval buildings. Girona’s most important landmarks and neighborhoods can be discovered calmly on foot in less than one day.
A university sits at the bottom of Passeig de la Muralla, a towering stone wall that used to protect the city from attack during the Middle Ages. You can climb to the top and walk the wall from one end to the other, exploring its lookout towers, arrowslits, and, well… its old stone toilet, which makes for an entertaining photo op. The wall offers a view of the cityscape, stretching out to the Pyrenees mountains, whose snow-capped peaks can be enjoyed in wintertime.
Game of Thrones and the Girona Cathedral
Scenes depicting the GoT city of Braavos were filmed all over Girona’s narrow streets and stone steps. Most notably, the front steps of the Girona Cathedral set the stage for Great Sept of Baelor in King’s Landing, where Jaime Lannister faces off with the High Sparrow.
The magnificent cathedral can be considered the pinnacle of the city’s architectural landmarks. Its construction started in the 11th century, lasting until the 18th century. The imposing limestone form is a melange of different architectural styles, with a Baroque facade, Romanesque cloisters, and a Catalan Gothic nave. Spanning 75 feet, it boasts the widest Gothic nave in the world.
As you will see later on, the city is brimming with fables. One such fable goes that if a couple sits together on Charlemagne’s Chair, at the back of the nave, they will get married.
Girona’s Jewish history and museum
Girona contains one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in all of Spain, an area named El Call, with houses and streets dating back to the medieval era. In its center is the Museum of Jewish History which seeks to tell the story of Girona’s lost Jewish community.
Once home to around 150 Jewish families, El Call’s residents experienced several periods of devastating repression leading up to the Spanish Inquisition in the 15th century. During this time, Spain’s rulers enacted laws making it difficult for Jewish people to engage in various occupations. The Jewish people of Girona were also prohibited from entering certain areas of the city and were required to wear identifying badges when they went out in public. These rules were meant to coerce them into converting to Christianity.
In 1492, Spain issued a decree expelling the entire community from its land, after which El Call’s houses stood abandoned for nearly 500 years. Girona’s remaining residents feared being labeled secret Jews if they moved into the property. As the city grew, buildings were constructed in the surrounding areas, encroaching on the space until it was entirely covered.
As a result, you’ll find Carrer de la Força, the street leading to the museum, to be extremely narrow. The museum does an excellent job of exhibiting the religious traditions and daily life of El Call’s inhabitants. It also uses the space to discuss religious discrimination and other topics such as cultural co-existence.
Private walking tours of the Jewish Quarter are available and can be booked online.
Other important landmarks
Basilica de Sant Feliu
Before the Girona Cathedral was built, the Basilica de Sant Feliu served as the city’s most important church. It lies just downhill from the cathedral, easy to spot with its tall bell tower touching the sky. Tickets to visit the interior of the Girona Cathedral include free entrance to the basilica as well.
Banys Àrabs
Another short walk from the cathedral is the old Arab bathhouse which dates back to the 12th century. The structure has withstood multiple sieges from outside forces over the years leading it to require periodic rebuilding. In the 19th century, its remains piqued the interest of historians, including the French researcher Alexandre de Laborde, whose book the Itinéraire descriptif de l’Espagne played a key role in Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion of Spain. The site was opened to the public in 1932 and can be visited for a small price of 2 euros per person.
Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants
The city’s Benedictine monastery is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Girona. It was built in the year 992 AD. For the Game of Thrones fans: the abbey’s interior served as the backdrop for Samwell Tarly’s arrival to the Citadel in Episode 10, Season 6. It also houses the Museum of Archaeology of Catalonia.
Plaça de la Independència
No doubt main plaza’s name could be thought to be connected to the political movement that has taken hold of the region in recent years. There is no direct link, however, though you will see many Catalan flags hanging from apartment windows in support of the region’s push for independence from Spain. In reality, the plaza was named to commemorate the 1808–1814 War of Spanish Independence against Napoleon. Politics aside, it’s a great place to relax with a glass of wine or a cup of coffee at one of its many outdoor cafes.
Pont de les Peixateries Velles
You may even walk over it without realizing its importance, but the red braided bridge crossing the Onyar River (the “Riu Onyar” in Catalan) was designed by one of the world’s most famous architects: Gustave Eiffel, the very same Frenchman responsible for Paris’ iconic wrought-iron tower. The Pont de les Peixateries Velles, also known as the Eiffel Bridge, is a 2-minute walk from the Plaça de la Independència. It was built in 1877 just before Gustave engineered the Eiffel Tower.
What to eat: “xuixos” and the Roca brothers
World-renowned cuisine
Though it is not a very large city, Girona’s food scene has made a lasting impression upon food critics from across the globe. It is home to the internationally-acclaimed restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, founded in 1986 by three brothers. One of the Michelin guide’s 3-star restaurants, El Celler de Can Roca was awarded the title “best restaurant in the world” in both 2013 and 2015 by the magazine Restaurant. The oldest of the three brothers, Joan is the head chef; sommelier Josep, the middle brother, is in charge of the wine; and the youngest brother, Jordi, makes the desserts.
Three of the province’s other eateries received 1-star in the 2020 Michelin Guide. Massana, in Girona’s city center, serves up modern cuisine in a classic setting. Hotel and restaurant Ca l’Arpa, in the town of Banyoles, focuses on reinterpretations of traditional Catalan cuisine. Bo.TiC is run by a chef and sommelier couple, located in Corça inside an old carriage factory.
Traditional Catalan dishes
If you’re in the mood for something a bit more casual, yet equally as satisfying, don’t overlook Girona’s more modest eateries. A good one is Cafe Le Bistrot, tucked away on a charming little terrace, at the bottom of the steps leading up to the Sant Martí Sacosta church. Affordably-priced, truly Catalan dishes, you’re sure to walk away with a happy belly and a thankful wallet.
Another great spot is restaurant Boira, in Girona’s Plaça de la Independència. During the week they have a menu del día (menu of the day) available. If the weather is nice, you can enjoy a meal out on the terrace.
Girona’s other claim-to-fame: a delicious pastry
What is that curiously named xuixo? The xuixo, pronounced “choo-cho,” is Girona’s specialty, and might be mistaken for a croissant upon first glance. Consisting of flakey, deep-fried dough filled with custard and topped with sugar, you’ll probably want to start with an empty belly before trying this delicious yet rich treat. According to locals, the best place to sample one is a bakery called Fleca Sant Daniel.
Where did it get its name? Legend has it that it started with a sneeze (I told you there were more tales to tell). The story goes that a young man named Tarlà fell in love with a beautiful girl, the daughter of a pastry chef. One day Tarlà was visiting her when suddenly the girl’s father appeared. Quickly, he hid in a bag of flour but was discovered by the father when he accidentally sneezed, which sounded something like “xui!”. To calm the baker, Tarlà promised to marry his daughter and to give him the recipe for a very special type of pastry, which he named after the sneeze that gave him away.
Rocambolesc Ice Cream
For a sweet taste of the Roca brother’s creations sans restaurant reservations, you can try some inventive flavors at their ice cream shop, appropriately named Rocambolesc. The man in charge is, of course, the youngest brother and chief patissier of El Celler, Jordi Roca.
Chocolate flies
Yes, you read that correctly. Go over to Xocopunt in Girona’s Plaça de Catalunya and try their delicious chocolate flies, which bring us to another one of the city’s fables:
“St Narcissus, one of Girona’s patron saints, is buried in the city’s Romanesque cathedral. Legend has it that when the neighboring French invaded (the Spanish know Girona as the ‘city of 1,000 sieges’) they tore open Narcissus’ tomb, whereupon a swarm of flies drove the marauders from Girona.”
Nature lovers and outdoor activities
The city of Girona is only one of the province’s many joys. Its coastal area, the famed Costa Brava, starts about an hour north of Barcelona and ends at the French border. It’s the complete package; seaside towns surrounded by turquoise, crystal clear waters, hidden coves (known as “calas”), and scrumptious seafood. The province’s normally sunny, temperate weather and uncongested mountain roads make it a great place for biking.
Hiking the Camí de Ronda
The Camí de Ronda allows visitors to meander along the coast with views of the Mediterranean the whole time, and access to its many calas. Normally only accessible by foot, calas offer you the chance to stretch out on the sand while enjoying a more private atmosphere. This trail extends the entire Costa Brava, all the way from the town of Lloret de Mar to Portbou.
Nearby Daytrips
Cadaqués
Many famous artists have been influenced by this quaint, white-washed fisherman’s village, including Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Truman Capote.
Salvador Dalí is most often associated with Cadaqués. He was born in Figueres, just 20 miles away, and spent many of his summers lazing around Cadaqués. Dalí drew inspiration from the town and its surrounding areas. Strange volcanic rock formations that reside in the Cap de Creus national park, just next door, are depicted in many of his surrealist paintings.
You can visit Dalí’s summer house in nearby Portlligat, though spaces are limited so tickets must be booked weeks in advance. There is also the Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol, and the grand Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres. The gatekeepers of these museums are very strict about reservations, so make sure to arrive early to secure your spot.
Begur
Begur’s largest cove, Sa Riera, is a superb place for a day at the beach. A bit of curiosity and some light exploration led me to some amazing discoveries the first time I visited. From the main cove of Sa Riera you can access the Camí de Ronda trail. A quick trek up the coast will bring you to Platja de l’Illa Roja (Red Island Beach), a secluded beach with spectacular views and an auburn crag backdrop.
Tossa de Mar
Further south is Tossa de Mar, the starting point of the Costa Brava for those traveling up from Barcelona. Its Medieval village, the Vila Vella Enceinte, is a picturesque labyrinth of steep, cobblestone streets leading up to an old castle. It is unique in that it is the only walled-in medieval town still standing on the Catalan seaboard. The castle and its fort date back to the 12th century.
When you’re done strolling the winding streets and stairwells of Vila Vella Enceinte, wander over to Els Ametllers to see the marble sculptures and mosaics of what was once an ancient Roman villa and winery. Before Medieval and Gothic times, Tossa de Mar was occupied by the Romans and was part of the province of Tarraco.
What to do
Local guides and experiences in Girona and the surrounding Costa Brava area can be booked online by visiting toureaux.com.
When to go
As with most cities in Europe, tourism picks up in July and August and the city can be quite hot. Shoulder-season months (March and April or September and October) are good times to go. Although, if you don’t mind the crowds, there is a wonderful flower festival for one week in May, the Temps de Flors. During this “Time of Flowers,” Girona adorns its buildings with head-to-toe floral decor.
How to get there
You can easily fly directly into Girona’s own airport or that of its nearby neighbor, Barcelona. Several low-cost airlines service the Girona airport (GRO) including the much-loved RyanAir. Trains from Barcelona are fast and inexpensive, with one-way tickets starting at around 10 euros. The train will drop you off directly in the center of town.
For more travel tips, check out Toureaux.com’s other stories.
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