Visiting Spain: Menorca
Ah, Menorca. When you’ve outgrown the intensity of Ibiza’s techno scene, it’s waiting there for you with open arms and tranquil beaches. Or, if you’re just craving lush farmlands, seaside hiking trails, and secluded platjas where you can let your hair down (and take off your clothes if you’re feeling brave) then this is the place for you.
Natural Landscape
The smallest of the three Balearic Islands, just off the coast of Spain, (Menorca, Mallorca, and Ibiza) this isla is also the most peaceful. Menorca attracts the nature-loving, tranquilo-seeking, outdoorsy type. In contrast to mainland Spain, Irish-green, grassy fields dotted with cattle stretch out before you as you drive down the only highway that has been allowed to be built. Much of the landscape is protected and thus undisturbed by development; in 1993 Menorca was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Catalan Culture
The flight from Barcelona is around an hour, so it makes for an easy weekend getaway. Menorca and Barcelona both share a Catalan culture, adding to its draw for Barcelona’s city dwellers in need of an escape to nature. King Jaume I conquered Menorca in 1232 and since this time they have spoken a dialect of Catalan also known there as Menorquí.
I went with a friend during the off-season, in April. Menorca, being an island in the temperate Mediterranean, is famous for having an average of 300 days of sunny skies a year. We got a bit unlucky and were hit with some rainy weather upon arrival. The rain was mild, though, and we were still able to hike.
Hiking and Secret Beaches
One of the hikes we did took us to a hidden cove, Cala Macarelleta, near its sister cove, Cala Macarella. If you continue trekking west, you’ll eventually reach Cala Turqueta, appropriately named for its turquoise waters. Trust me, on a sunny day the waters turn a color you would only imagine existed in paintings.
Cala Tortuga, La Vall, and Cala sa Torreta, are among other beautiful, secluded beaches that you can hike to. Some of the paths are accessible only by taxi or bus, so make sure to check before you drive over. Sa Mesquida and Punta Prima are car-accessible beaches with parking. Es Grau is a small fisherman village with a car-accessible beach as well. It is small and as it has few vacation properties and only a handful of cafés, so it is more popular among the locals than the tourists.
For an extensive guide to all of Menorca’s beaches, visit Condé Nast Traveller. There you can also see what the aquamarine waters look like on a sunny day.
Getting Around
Menorca has a set of bus routes that you can take to get around the island, but we rented a car to make things easier. Protip: everything is quite spread out, so renting a car or a scooter makes navigating it much less stressful.
Boat Tours
Would you prefer to explore the virgin beaches without hiking? Boat tours that leave from the port in Ciutadella will take you to the beaches on the southern coastline. Sail to Son Saura, to swim in its calm waters offshore. Take a break for paella on board and then venture to the sisters, Cala Macarella and Cala Macarelleta. End with another dip at Cala Turqueta.
Maó and Ciutadella
Given that it is a small, quiet island, there are only two major towns: Ciutadella and Maó, also known as Mahón in Spanish. Maó (the pastel-colored town pictured below) is the main city and it is located on the eastern side of the island, near the airport. Ciutadella is on the opposite side, facing the western waters.
Maó is a great town to explore, though the outskirts are not as beautiful as the older part near the port. Churches, quiet plazas, and Georgian homes are interconnected by narrow, winding streets. I quickly decided that Sa Botiga in Plaça del Carme and Bar a Vins in Plaça de la Conquesta were my two favorite spots to sit and give my feet a rest. After your pausa, trek down to the water to enjoy a walk along Maó’s port, which is the world’s second deepest harbor after Pearl Harbor.
Ancient Ruins
Menorca’s history dates back to prehistoric times. In fact, Menorca has the highest concentration of B.C. archaeology in Europe. The Talaiotic tribes who once inhabited the island left behind many stone ruins, that are theorized to have been houses, lookout points, and burial grounds, among other things. One of the megalithic structures, Naveta d’Es Tudons, is an old burial chamber located on the western side of the island, near Ciutadella. Read more about each site here.
British Invasion
Fast-forward several thousand years, and you’ll arrive in the 18th and 19th centuries, a time when Brits held control over the island. Their presence left a lasting impact on the island, not in the form of Stonehenge-like structures, but rather in food, language, and architecture. A few Menorquí words are quite similar to their English counterpart, and the Georgian houses lining the cobblestone streets of Maó seem like they belong in London.
For a glimpse into the life of one of the most prominent British families of Menorca at that time, visit the Ca n’Oliver in Maó. It’s an old mansion that used to be the home of the Oliver family, a prominent bourgeoisie family that was one of the most powerful families on the island during the 19th and 20th centuries. It has since been turned into a museum focused on Menorca’s art, history, and culture. When you’re done perusing their galleries, take the staircase to the hidden rooftop terrace, where you’ll enjoy the best view in town.
Gin de Mahón
You will also find that the Brits left their mark on the local spirits industry; Menorca’s craft gin, known as Gin de Mahón, is something the locals are quite proud of.
Gin de Mahón is served two different ways: a lemonade cocktail called a pomada or with soda and a twist of lemon, a pellofa. Xoriguer is one of the larger distilleries on the island; if you are interested in learning about the production process, they offer tours at their factory in Maó.
Local Commodities: Sobrasada
Let’s talk about food. What are Menorca’s specialties? Sobrasada is a rich, funny-shaped, bright-red sausage that is usually removed from its casing, spread on bread and drizzled with a touch of honey. It is made with ground pork, paprika and salt, and other spices, giving it a bit of a kick. Menorca is also famous for its Mahón cheese which is a mild, unoffensive cheese made from cow’s milk.
Mayonnaise
Menorca also claims to be the birthplace of mayonnaise. It is said that the sauce was first invented in the city of Maó, which is pronounced “mayo.” The Minorcan recipe is three simple ingredients: olive oil, garlic, and egg.
Ensaimadas
These doughy, spiral-shaped, sugar-dusted pastries are one of the Island’s other specialties. Try one for breakfast with a café con leche, and you’ll be in heaven.
Dining Out
Speaking more about food… Menorca, like the rest of Spain, has an abundance of restaurants. Some of its best include Ca Na Pilar, which does seasonal Catalan cuisine with a molecular gastronomy twist, and Smoix, a similar experimental Mediterranean eatery. But, if you’re not looking to break the bank on dinner, there are less-expensive options to choose from. Bar Camacho, located in Es Castell, has an outdoor terrace and offers all the traditional staples using fresh ingredients. Another great spot for fresh seafood and tapas is Hogar Del Pollo in Ciutadella.
Menorca’s Best Nightlife
Where to enjoy a gin and tonic, or perhaps a glass of cava as you watch the sunset? Cova d’en Xoroi takes the prize. It is one of the few nightclubs on the island, consisting of several terraces connected by cave pathways. Cliffside cabanas give you places to lounge while you sip and admire the views.
Menorca’s protected landscape and laid-back atmosphere make it the island of choice for travelers interested in Balearic beach views sans the party-goers and techno music typical of Ibiza and Mallorca. This is no high-intensity vacation unless, of course, you come with the intention of completing the Cami de Cavalls, the hiking path that circumvents the entire island. At the end of the weekend, my friend and I returned to our homes in Barcelona, refreshed and relaxed, ready to jump back into the swing of things. Next time I return to this grassy, turquoise beach haven, I’ll cross my fingers for sunny skies the whole time. The odds are in my favor.
