Visiting Spain: San Sebastián
Surf and eat your way through this picturesque seaside city
San Sebastián is home to a surfing community nestled in the Bay of Biscay, on the Atlantic side of northern Spain. It has become a popular destination in recent years, not only for its waves and heady vibe but for its food as well. The city has the most Michelin starred restaurants per square meter in Europe, and foodies travel from afar to delight in its dishes.
Basque Culture
San Sebastián is part of one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities, El País Vasco or Basque Country. In fact, the region has its own language (Euskera) and the city a second name, Donostia.
I started reading up on San Sebastián a few weeks before my trip. I found this video by Vagabrothers, two brothers who have made a name for themselves in the world of travel blogging. Like myself, they initially came to Spain to teach English, but fell in love with the place. In their video, the brothers surf, swim with dolphins, taste pintxos and hike around the hills of the city. Watching it will give you a good sense of the city’s spirit.
A Surprising Climate (and Language)
I arrived in San Sebastián on a Friday afternoon, by train from Barcelona. The journey took around 5 hours and was quite pleasant. I watched as the landscape slowly changed from dry and arid, dusty plains and blue skies, to mountainous forests and grassy farmlands. As we entered into Basque Country, fog started clinging to the hills, and fluffy sheep dotted the landscape beneath equally fluffy clusters of clouds.
I rested my book on the tray in front of me and gazed out the window hypnotized by the jarring change in landscape. Back in the countryside of Barcelona, sunny days were abundant and lush forests hard to come by. I felt a bit of comfort in this new scenery; it reminded me of my homestead in the Northeastern US. There were moments when, if no street sign with an Euskera name was in sight, I wouldn’t have been able to tell whether I was in Basque country or my beloved Vermont.
A feeling of enchantment crept over me. What other surprises will I uncover these next few days? We were only a few hundred kilometers from Catalunya yet I could feel the isolation that had molded the region’s distinct culture. With the Pyrenees on one side and the Atlantic on the other, this part of Spain (and France) has a language unlike any other. This is by no means an exaggeration. Linguists are unable to find a link between Euskera and any other language, it is a “language isolate.”
Euskera is also theorized to be the oldest living language in Europe, going back to the Neolithic era. It is said to be the descendant language of the cave dwellers of the Lascaux caves in France, which is famous for its 20,000-year-old paintings.
At the main station in San Sebastián, I couldn’t even begin to discern the signs written in Euskera. Thankfully, their Spanish translations were below. As I climbed down the steps and onto the platform, a cold breeze hit my bare arms. It was 67 degrees Fahrenheit, in the middle of August! Quickly, I stepped aside on the platform and reached into my suitcase for a sweater. Man, was this place unlike any other part of Spain!
A Museum With a View
A friend from the US was meeting me in San Sebastián (after all, hopping around pintxos bars alone sounds a bit sad). On our first day, my friend and I wanted to get the lay of the land, so we decided to climb to the top of one of the city’s hills.
Casa de la Historia is a museum located at the top of Monte Urgull, past the Castillo de la Mota castle. It’s a hike to reach, but the views are fantastic. You’ll be able to see both beaches, Kontxa to the left and Zurriola on the right. The museum itself is full of maps and artifacts from the city and gives you a good understanding of the many industries that brought life to the region. From its role as a trading port and a fishing town during the Middle Ages, to its more modern persona as a tourist destination, the city has always attracted travelers of all sorts.
Pintxos
Maybe you’ve seen them in other parts of Spain, but pintxo culture has its origins in Basque Country and the surrounding regions of Northern Spain. Small pieces of bread topped with a delightful combination of various ingredients, they are displayed atop bars in a way that will make your mouth water as soon as you walk through the door.
In old school pintxos bars, you are handed a plate and you take as many as you’d like. At the end, you show the wooden sticks to the server and he or she bills you accordingly. Because the city is very popular with tourists, many places ask you to show the pintxos to the server before you eat. It just depends on the type of establishment.
Pintxos in Gros
My favorite pintxos bar was Casa Senra in the trendy neighborhood of Gros. Make sure you get there early, though. The platters verge on being empty by about 9 pm (maybe even earlier) so if you want a chance to try their best ones, go closer to 7 or 8 pm. Also in the neighborhood is Bergara, a brightly-lit bar with a more modern feel. Located down a small alleyway, you can hang out outside and then hop over to one of the other bars next door.
Pintxos in the Old Town
Across the bridge on the other side of the river is the Old Town. This area is also littered with pintxos bars. Borda Berri is one of the best and its unique combinations can’t be missed. If you’re feeling courageous, try the pig’s ear.
The Old Town is also home to several other noteworthy places that do something other than tapas. Bideluze offers an assortment of massive, delicious sandwiches on fresh baguettes. Kafe Bat? is a bakery with excellent coffee. You must try their honey-drizzled croissants.
An Age-Old Tradition: Basque Cider Houses or “Sagardotegi”
One of the region’s oldest traditions involves hard apple cider. Unlike sweeter, bubbly versions marketed in the US, Basque cider is dry, flat and has an almost sour, yet delicious, flavor. Sold in tall green bottles at the store or in large oak barrels at the cider house, there is an entire ritual devoted to this beverage.
Basque cider houses are known as sagardotegi. Normally, patrons are served both cider as well as a full meal. The process for filling your glass is a communal one. NY Times travel writer Jason Wilson explains it all:
“We learned that when a guy with a bucket yells “txotx!” (pronounced “CHOACH”) that means he’s about to open the tap on one of dozens of huge 13,000-liter barrels, shooting out a thin stream of cider. You’re supposed to stand up from your meal, get in line, and hold your glass at just the right angle to catch a few fingers of cider from that hissing stream. You drink the small amount in your glass and then follow the cidermaker to the next barrel.”
In San Sebastián alone there are 19 cider houses to visit, some on the periphery of the city. Whichever one you choose, make sure to make a reservation! Tables fill up quickly, and some cider houses are closed on certain days of the week, so it’s best to call ahead.
Nightlife in San Sebastián
It’s not a big city, so don’t expect the kind of nightlife you would find in Madrid or Barcelona. There is a lively bar scene, though, in the Old Town near San Bizente Eliza, where crowds spill out onto the small streets sipping on their drinks. Cote had a nice atmosphere and felt a bit more relaxed than some of the Erasmus student bars scattered throughout the area.
If you’re looking to dance, there is a speak-easy style nightclub hidden in the basement of theater Victoria Eugenia Antzokia. The club itself is listed on Google maps as an espresso bar called Victoria Café, but if you go inside you’ll find a stairwell leading down to a basement with a few large dance floors.
So Much More: France, Nature, and Game of Thrones
San Sebastián offers a laid-back surfer atmosphere, beautiful scenery, and some of the best food in Spain. But what also makes it a great place to visit is its proximity to France and other Basque towns with some spectacular natural vistas.
For this reason, there is an abundance of possible day trips from San Sebastián’s main train station. To the west, Zarautz, and Zumaia are two gorgeous surf spots. Zumaia (pictured below) boasts a coastal hiking trail, Ruta del Flysch.
Named after the unique rock formations (of which there are only eight kilometers in the entire world) Ruta del Flysch hikers walk alongside the Atlantic with views of these grey, slanting, layered geological formations. It’s no wonder several Game of Thrones episodes were filmed here. Crossing the border north to France takes you to glamorous Biarritz, another vacation town visited by European royalty in the 1800s.
How to Get to San Sebastián
Ready to go? Fly into San Sebastián’s local airport, EAS and hop on a bus or take a taxi to the city center. If you’re visiting from another city, such as Barcelona or Madrid, there are plenty of trains that can get you there in just a few hours. Once you’ve arrived, the city is well-connected by public buses and regional rail if you want to explore the aforementioned coastal areas. On egin! (Cheers! in Euskera)
