Visiting Spain: Tarragona
Just an hour from Barcelona, this Roman town and UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Catalunya’s hidden gems
Barcelona natives used to a landscape scattered with Roman ruins, Gothic churches, and Medieval castles, shrugged their shoulders and said, “it’s okay…” when I asked them for their opinion of this UNESCO World Heritage site. But the plans had been made and the accommodations had been booked. My friends were visiting from the US for ten days, and I wanted to take them on an overnight trip outside of Barcelona. I was hoping to show them that there was more to Catalunya than the Gothic Quarter and the beaches of Barceloneta.
Roman Ruins
My friends and I boarded the Rodalies commuter train on a Thursday morning and took off south, following the coastal path of what was once Via Augusta. Via Augusta was the old Roman road that connected present-day Spain to the rest of the Roman Empire, part of which still exists in Barcelona under the same name. An hour later we pulled into the Tarragona station and headed to the apartment we had rented in the historic district. As we made our way into town, we passed by the impressive remains of a Roman amphitheater. Placid, blue waves provided a backdrop for this oval limestone structure that has managed to survive for over two thousand years. I could already tell that I loved this place.
The small city is one of the best-preserved Roman settlements in all of Spain. Now significantly smaller than Barcelona, Tarragona was in ancient times a bustling trade hub. It was the capital of the Roman province of Tarraco and far more important than Barcelona. This was because its port was much deeper, making it easier for trade ships to access the shore.
“…with its immense walls, its forum, its temples, its circus, and its amphitheater, [Tarragona] is still more richly endowed with surviving Roman buildings than any other Spanish city.” — Robert Hughes, author of Barcelona
Tarragona Cathedral
Our apartment was tucked away upstairs from a shop with a Juliette balcony overlooking the street. My friends and I dropped off our suitcases and set off to meander the windy streets. We started left and within a few meters reached the Tarragona Cathedral, we had caught a glimpse of its rose window from the apartment’s balcony.
Some other sites we found interesting were the Roman wall along Passeig Arqueològic, the Roman Circus, and the Roman Forum. Venture outside the city to see Pont del Diable (Devil’s Bridge), a Roman aqueduct that provided water to the city. The Roman remains are also scattered casually throughout the city. Sit at a café in Plaça del Fòrum and marvel at the remains of the Provincial Forum’s old portico.
Restaurants
There are no tourist menus in Plaça del Fòrum and Catalan can be heard at every cluster of outdoor tables. At one of the square’s café’s, Tarakon, you can make your own pa amb tomaquet, a Catalan specialty which means “bread with tomato.” Here are the step-by-step instructions: take the head of garlic, rub it on the toast. Then, take the tomato and, yes, rub it on the toast as well. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle on a touch of salt. Ask for some roasted carxofa (artichoke) if it is in season and some pulpo (octopus) with potatoes and paprika.
Another option for lunch or dinner is AQ Restaurant, just a few blocks from Plaça del Fòrum. Here the menu changes each day and diners can sit directly in front of the open kitchen to watch them prepare their meals. Dishes are unlike anything you’ll see on other restaurants’ menus; the chefs here are all passionate about their cooking and design their own Catalan-international fusions.
Best Beaches
Tarragona is known for its blue-flag beaches, beaches so clean and well-maintained they are awarded this special title. Drive north 15 minutes to swim in a small cove next to a castle, Cala Jovera. If Cala Jovera is too crowded but you still want the castle view, cross over to the other side of the old fortress to access the larger Platja Tamarit.
Tarragona’s Vineyards
Barcelona is considered the most modern of the Mediterranean cities. Its cosmopolitan culture has seeped into the rest of Catalonia, including Tarragona’s wine country. Catalans are known for their open, experimental and forward-thinking outlook which is well-exhibited by its famous Modernisme architecture. Tarragona’s wineries follow suit. In contrast to traditionalist wine producers in regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy, who adhere strictly to centuries-old processes, many of Tarragona’s grape growers are more open to evolving their formulas.
“We have been able to experiment with different materials and techniques to find out what worked best with our amazing Garnacha grapes. An initial of four wines expanded to nine.”
— Núria Altés, owner of winery Herència Altés
Hèrencia Altés is an organic winery located in the town of Gandesa, west of Tarragona. Its sustainable design goes beyond its grapes — the operation is powered almost entirely by solar power and uses recycled rainfall. They offer a two-hour tour with four wine tastings for €15, which includes a €5 shop voucher.
Cellers Avgvstvs Forvm in El Vendrell is another winery in the region that was built directly on top of the remains of Via Augustus. Its location three kilometers from the sea gives its grapes a special flavor. Try their red and whites made from native Catalan xarello grapes.
If you don’t feel like driving to the vineyards, full-day wine tours by coach are also available. Leave your car at the hotel and have a guide take you to visit a famous monastery and two of Tarragona’s vineyards. After, do an olive oil tasting and have a nice, long lunch.
Check It Out
By the end of my trip, I couldn’t really agree with my Spanish friends’ lackluster impression of Tarragona. Perhaps my American heritage forced me to see it with rose-colored glasses, but I truly thought it was a beautiful place. For an ancient Roman experience sans long lines, doused in good, affordable wines, and top-notch beaches, check it out the next time you find yourself in Barcelona.
