Chapter 23: Dwellingup, Serpentine and the tentacles of Alcoa
The temperature is rising. The only place having a real Australian summer is this pocket of Western Australia. After exploring the Nannup area, we head further north to Dwellingup. T has planned this leg of the trip around the route of the Munda Biddi bike trip he did six months ago. Back then, it was clear and cold when we were in town, now it is clear and hot.
The trees surrounding the town are tall and majestic, creating a lovely cooling effect. As soon as we step into the sun though, its full force is apparent. Dwellingup has embraced the cross-country cycling boom. It’s significance to the Munda Biddi route means it has showers, toilets and bike repair facilities. Sprinkled among the houses are signs protesting the presence of Alcoa in Dwellingup’s forests.
T selected a campsite in a national park called Lane Poole Reserve. The Government, with mining giant Alcoa’s help, created the Reserve around the Murray River. Of course, this is not the giant river of the Eastern States currently overflowing its banks and engulfing various towns. We’ll need to deal with that when we drive through that area next week.
This is a much smaller version. Alcoa’s tentacles — and mining in general — wind themselves through everything WA and Perth. It’s often mining work that affords the men their giant 4WDs, caravans, quad bikes and jet-skis. WA’s rich resources help provide it new roads and bypasses; and a ‘bridge rejuvenation’ scheme that connects lovely renewed bridges with crappy scraps of road.
But as the posters around Dwellingup attest, the delicate and ancient natural environment pays a cost for mining’s prevalence. It creates a perennial conflict between capitalism and environmentalism that never shows signs of abating.
Tony’s Bend
T has booked us in to Tony’s Bend, towards the end of the road winding through the Reserve. It’s a picturesque spot, although when the breeze blows, we are reminded of its proximity to the drop toilet. A small path leads down to the water. With some deft foot navigation on the riverbank and the assistance of a short protruding log, we can launch ourselves into a deep section of the intermittent river.
The refreshing effects are immediate. The river is simultaneously warm on top and cool underneath. Some investigation reveals we can easily swim around 100 metres upstream before the pool peters out.
We all immediate decide the next day is for swimming.
Island Pool
After the kids insist on a morning swim at Tony’s Bend, we wander up a short path to the dedicated day area for the reserve, Island Pool. This is a large, circular swimming hole deliberately created with entry steps and shallow areas.
A immediately spots a rope hanging from a tree and spends a happy few hours leaping from the root of a tree, onto the swing and splashing in to the water. G, not as adventurous, looks on enviously.
After a time, more people spot the swing and a queue forms behind it. We decide its time to return to Tony’s Bend and get the kayak out for a spin. There’s not much water available but there’s no wind either. The kayak drifts upstream until we turn it around and it obligingly drifts down stream to take us back.
It’s a lovely, relaxing and easy day. I even finish a book.
I’ve avoided thinking about the two days of mud encased on our feet. When I finally realise the soles of my feet are nearly black with dirt, I heat up some water, squirt in some dishwashing detergent, and give my feet a good soak and scrub. The other three soon follow suit.
Serpentine
The next day we have two important appointments. The first is a visit to the Perth Aqua Park; a Christmas gift from far away cousins. It’s a giant inflatable obstacle course set on a large body of water. I forget that A is not 10 and not old enough to go by himself; so I talk T into going with him.
I had been on something similar in Melbourne. It’s quite a workout hauling yourself out of the water; up and over the obstacles; then doing it all again when you inevitably fall in. T grumbles a bit but thoroughly enjoys it as much as the kids.
We are staying about 30 minutes from Mandurah, where dear friends of mine live. They graciously drive out to sit and drink with us in the caravan park for a few hours as we wash the now-clean sheets flapping in the wind.
The wind is hot and dry and I marvel again at how much easier life on the road is when you can get everything dry in a few hours.
The next morning, the kids are tired after we accidentally let them stay up too late because we were having too much fun with our friends. Not only that, but the wind has found us again. We drive up to Serpentine Falls to take a look and go for a short walk around — also sponsored by Alcoa — before it gets too hot.
Next we head towards Perth; where we will turn around and drive all the way back to Melbourne.
On the way, as we drive though Kwinana, the industrial outskirts of Perth, we learn Alcoa is closing its refinery and laying off 1,100 workers. Guess there’ll be a few jet-skis on the market then.
