A Free Safari: Driving Through Botswana
You may not need to pay for that expensive tour
On our way into Namibia at the beginning of our 50+ hour road trip, Google Maps issued us a warning sign that we probably should have listened to. When it told us that the roads might be rough or damaged, we assumed this meant a few pot holes or maybe some patches of gravel or dirt road, but we could not have been more wrong.
The Caprivi strip, a 280 mile long stretch of land sandwiched between Botswana, Angola, and Zambia, was our entry way into Namibia, where we planned to visit the capital Windhoek, the world’s oldest desert, make our wall all the way to the coast where barren sands meet the ocean, and drive all the way back. It just so happened that the roads there didn’t just have minor damage, they could barely even be considered roads anymore.
Littered with potholes the size of cars, rolling hills of sand on the side that provided a smoother ride at the risk of getting stranded, and donkeys the size of minivans that stared blankly out at your from the middle of the road all made for a memorable journey — not to mention the fact that my fiancée and I were cooped up in the back, sitting on our backpacks instead of seats, as the six members of her family and I crammed into their SUV for the duration of the trip.
Thus, when it came time to plan our return to Zambia, the Caprivi strip was absolutely out of the question.
Trekking Namibia: A World of Natural Wonders
If you set aside the grueling hours on the road, which added up to almost eight hours a day on average for a week straight, the things we saw in Namibia were breathtaking and unforgettable. Sand shifted and glided with the wind over vast sand dunes. The sun glared down at us as we stopped to check out a flock of flamingos or hopped on four wheelers to ride through the desert to a scenic ocean view where a sea of sand met a sea of waves.
We started our trip in Lusaka, Zambia, which was our home base. From there we went to the adventurous city of Livingstone and saw Mosi-oa-Tunya, a sunset river cruise, a safari, played with baby tigers, and more. As we departed Livingstone, our immediate thought was on when we would be back. And lucky for us, we would be making another stop there on the return trip.
Then was the fateful journey from Livingstone to Namibia’s capital, Windhoek. It was, of course, much too far to make it all the way there in one day, even taking into consideration the extreme roadtrip stamina that my fiancée’s family seemed to possess. So, we drove into the night until it was too dark to drive safely on donkey-infested roads, and we pulled off into the small town of Rundu to find a place to stay.
We ended up at Hotel Rundu, where — aside from an oddly small sink and a questionable breakfast buffet menu — the stay was very comfortable and convenient. The next day, we headed out for the capital.
After a brief stay, visiting museums, restaurants, and seeing all we could see from Windhoek, we pressed onward to the desert. In Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, and the surrounding area, we rode four wheelers, spent some time at the beach, and trekked up sand dunes, filling the fibers of our clothes with grains of sand that always seem to reappear no matter how many times you wash them.
Then came the time to return.
Our Return: Cutting Out the Caprivi Strip
Coming back was an easy decision. There were essentially only two ways we could go: back through the battered road on the Caprivi Strip or through Botswana. We had our reservations about traveling through Botswana after some border crossing troubles from the previous year, but nothing could be as bad as the risk of being stranded in the middle of a national park with a car full of kids or running into a stubborn donkey on the road at night.
So, Botswana it was. Ironically enough, it was the border crossing out of Namibia that gave us the most trouble. Botswana let us through no hassle, with a kind smile and a genuine interest in our travels.
And so, we hit the road — the paved, or at least smooth dirt road — and chugged onwards through the Botswana countryside. What we found was a gorgeous and relaxing drive that, despite our awkward seating arrangements, gave us an essentially free safari adventure as we made our way to our AirBnB near Maun, Botswana.
Our drive through the country, which continued after our AirBnB stay to Livingstone, Zambia, showed us some of the Big Five and some bonus animals as well.
Herds of African buffalo grazed along the sides of the road, nodding up at us as we passed and huffing and puffing as they shuffled amongst each other. Their unique horns perched atop their heads made them look a bit like old British lawyers with fantastical wigs.
Elephants stomped across our path as we stopped and waited for them to pass, giving us barely a sign of acknowledgement as they journeyed to the next watering hole or tree for a snack.
Small groups of ostriches pranced alongside the road as if they were racing us. Their long necks stretched high above any bush that was around as we waved at them through the windows.
We weren’t quite lucky enough to spot a lion, rhino, or leopard, but with all of the amazing creatures we did see, it might as well have been a paid tour!
Conclusion
After our stay at a gorgeous and adventurous-feeling AirBnB, we hopped on our second-to-last leg of the journey back to Lusaka and headed to Livingstone. Our second day was again filled with majestic wildlife like zebras, more ostriches, elephants, and buffalo, and plenty of monkeys as we neared Mosi-oa-Tunya.
Though we did, of course, go on a classic safari during our stay in southern Africa and enjoy the expertise of specially trained safari guides scoping out the national park for their favorite animals for us to see, this journey in Botswana was a safari all of its own. With no service and a car packed with family to entertain, spotting these animals made the otherwise long and taxing drive through Botswana into an adventure of its own — even if we were just passing through.
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