Trekking Nepal (Part 2)
The actual trek
Kathmandu
Before we started on our trek, we spent a couple of days in Kathmandu as Air India left Phil’s bag in Delhi and we had to wait for it to arrive.
Kathmandu as a city is pretty boring, there are a few sights to go to, but we were going to visit them on the last day of our trek so all we did was hang around the city and have a couple of drinks.
We did go to a Hindu temple on the way back from the airport after collecting Phil’s bag. The temple is where Hindus perform “sea burials”.
Firstly, the bodies are cremated with fire, then the ashes are swept into the sea. What was shocking to us was there were kids in the very same river.
“They’re picking up gold.” the guide explained. “The families of the deceased normally put on gold accessories on the dead before they burn them. After the ashes are swept into the river, the kids try to pick them up and then sell them later on.”
After the sightseeing, we received a call from our trekking guide and was told of the things we need for the trek. It was already 8pm by then and we scrambled to look for open shops to try to get our Ponchos and jackets. As explained in part 1, we were not well prepared.
Buying stuff in Kathmandu is a frustrating experience. Almost all the shops mark up their prices and it is up to you to try to bargain it down. A North Face knock off will start at 4,500 rupees($45), but after bargaining, I managed to bring it down to 3,500($35).
I had holes in my Palladium shoes and the soles were all worn off, but I decided that they should be able to last the trek and didn’t buy new trekking boots. I have a pair at home and it just feels really wasteful to buy another.
Day 1
The ride was a long one, but the view was breathtaking.
The next day, we woke up nice and early and got on our jeep and set off to Syabru Besi, our first stop.
After multiple checkpoints, we finally arrived at our first guest house.
The guest house is right beside a noisy river, and the toilet was the kind where you have to squat.
There was no hot water, and the shower head was broken.
No blankets were provided, so we slept in our sleeping bags.
Day 2
First of many suspension bridges we crossed.
As it was late by the time we arrived on Day 1, our guide told us that we were setting off on Day 2 morning.
The trek was tough and a lot of times, we often did not have the chance to enjoy and take in the scenery, sights and sounds. Our guide pressed on most times without us, and our rest stops were few and far between.
I quickly tired after the first day, but we were still making good speeds according to our guide.
The trail looks easy, but it’s not. Without good trekking shoes, one can feel all the sharp edges of the rocks you step on.
On early mornings, ice covers the rocks making them slippery and treacherous to step on. Often, when we have to step on the rocks to get over a waterfall. Without our guide, I might have slipped and fell into a waterfall.
Small loose rocks also make going downhill dangerous as they cause you to lose your foothold and slip. (Which I did a few times)
Day 3
This is where we chat with a couple who were camping and trekking on their own with no guide and porters.
The guy was from New Zealand, and the girl from Ireland. They cook their own meals and insist on setting up their own tent. We learnt from them that they trekked through Mongolia and were planning to trek all the way south through Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia and to Australia before reaching back home to NZ.
They were complaining how on the Langtang region, even setting up their own tents costs money as the guesthouse owners refuse to let them set up their tents on their land. In Mongolia, they were free to set up tents wherever they want. However, the trails were much less defined there and hence, more dangerous.
Very inspiring and seasoned travellers. I need to learn more from them!
Day 4
It gets hot when we hike for a couple of hours, so we can wear thin layers. However, a few minutes after we stop, it gets cold again.
We got closer and closer to the snow as the days go by.
I’m skipping quite a few pictures and the hotels we stayed in. If you want to look at the full set, scroll down to the bottom of the post.
The rocks in the middle are set up by Nepalis. It is said that we are supposed to walk on the left side only and our trek will be safe (I think).
We reached the highest village, Kyang Jin on Day 4. There was still a lot of daylight left, so we decided to do a hike up to see a lake.
In hindsight, we should not have done the hike and spend the day resting for the hike up to the peak the next day. However, I don’t regret doing it.
Day 5
First sunlight.
That’s the first sunlight on the snowy peaks. We set off at 6am, and this shot was taken at 6.23am. The view and the orange glow was incredible. However, I was too busy panting and struggling to continue the trek up.
The trek up was not easy at all. It’s a constant uphill with loose rocks and steep climbs. My knees just could not keep up.
There were so many times along the way where I thought I should give up and turn back, but I pushed myself and pressed on.
The first light told me that I’m almost there and to give up at this point will be the biggest regret I will ever have in my life.
The snow is finally at my feet. I made it!
We were lucky that the snow is on the other side of the mountains as the sun is on our side. Otherwise, I’m not sure if I could do the trek with these shoes. If you look closely, my shoes have holes in them and the soles are all worn. These Palladiums were with me for more than 2 years. Time for a change after I get back.
The view at the top was simply amazing.
The view at the top was really worth it. The accomplishment and the joy of having completed it was incredible. I set my mind then that I will never give up on the things I want to do that easily anymore. The peak is possible if I continue trying and pressing on.
Sure, I might arrive at the peak later, but I will reach the peak eventually.
Phil and the guide was actually at the peak an hour before me. We gave each other a really good high five when we met up. It’s something I won’t forget.
The trek made me realise the importance of regular exercise and the number of problems with my body. Time to get back in shape!
PS: I’m not that fat, it’s the layers of clothing that made me look fat.
On the way back down. (Still Day 5)
We officially reached the midpoint of our trip. But going back down the mountains was going to be an entirely different experience. There will be a different set of challenges and a different way to manage my mindset.
We were both eager and keen to get back to Kathmandu where we can get clean toilets, hot showers and MEAT.
If I haven’t mentioned it before, the people in the mountains do not kill their animals. Their diet consist mainly of potatoes, vegetables, rice and eggs. We followed the same diet.
While we were there, it was actually going to be one of the most important elections ever for Nepal in a few days.
Posters like this could be seen at some parts of the trails and all over buildings in villages.
Little did we know that due to the elections, our trip back is going to be a difficult one due to strikes that were preventing non-green plates vehicles from driving pass one of the main roads in Nepal.
Green plate vehicles are tourist agency registered vehicles to show that they are for tourists only. The people in the strikes only allowed green plate vehicles to pass but many tourist agencies actually did not have green plate vehicles due to the higher cost to register them.
Day 6
It got colder as we went up. This shot is of Pemba holding up a layer of ice which has frozen overnight.
The pipes in the guesthouses also froze overnight and it normally takes a few hours after the sun comes up before they run again.
Our mornings where we use the cold water to brush our teeth was unforgettable.
I would also like to specially mention Pemba. He stuck with me most of the trip. His name is Pemba Limbu.
I really owe it to him to have made it up all the way. This young 18 year old guy was always smiling and eager to carry out any tasks asked of him. He is working to save money to finish his university and then hopefully become a guide like Gopal in the future.
This particular horse turned and looked at me just when I was planning to take a shot of him. Thank you Mr Horse!
Day 7
We walked on the rocks right next to the river. I actually couldn’t remember we passed this on the way up.
If you squint you can see it. It looks near but it’s hella far.
It looks like we are only going to go uphill, but we went downhill almost all the way before we had to go uphill all the way again to reach this next village.
So this is what I was talking about. See that bridge? We are going all the way downhill, cross the bridge, then all the way uphill again.
Instead of going back where we came from, we had to trek to Thulo Syabru and then on to Dhunche where a car will pick us up.
This part of the trek is filled with greenery, bamboo shoots, birds and flies. Lots of flies. And mud. Lots of mud.
Day 8
We’re glad the weather got warmer and I think the guide finally understood that he has to be the one following our pace and not us following his pace.
I really enjoyed the trek down a lot more. We paused and take in more of the scenery and shots and it was less tiring and challenging as well.
It was still cold, but whenever there’s the sun, it’s a real nice warm feeling. After so many days in the cold, I almost forgot what the warmth of the sun felt like.
While trekking downhill, anytime where there was a stretch with the sun is met with my open arms.
It’s brutally cold at night, and along the way, we can actually see the results of many landslides. There are sometimes remains of what were rice paddies and civilisations after a landslide.
Imagine if you’re a farmer and all your years of hard work gets destroyed overnight in a land slide.
Around this time was the time we learnt that there might be a problem with transportation back to Kathmandu.
While our tour agency has green plate vehicles, word is that the people on strike were not allowing empty vehicles to pass through.
Our driver had to find tourists who wanted to come up to Langtang in order to reach us.
Day 9
We drive back to Kathmandu today and the views we got along the way are better than the peak’s in my opinion.
Breathtaking views
Day 10
Phil had a flight at 1.30pm so he left the hotel by about 10.30am. I spent the next few hours doing nothing much as I wander around the city, had lunch and dinner, before heading to the airport at 8pm to wait for my 11.30pm flight.
I was sad and happy to leave Nepal. I know I will miss the mountains but I know I won’t miss the food, and the toilets.
14 days without the computer was also pretty refreshing. I’ve never been away from the screen that long.
As I sat in the plane, waiting for the pilot to taxi onto the runway, I thought of how I spent the last 10 days and felt pretty good about myself. I was sure I have become mentally and physically stronger, and I was raring to be back at work and finish 2013 with all the things I wanted to do but didn’t do.
Pictures were all taken with my iPhone 5, so pardon the low quality.
For the full set, visit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/darksuiyoken/sets/72157637994635384
