Spending Time in Old Town Istanbul

Heather Holmes
Travelationship
Published in
8 min readMar 27, 2024
busy ferry terminal filled with colorful boats and a mosque looming in the background
Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes

I LOVE Istanbul! For solo travelers, friends, couples, and families, it doesn’t matter; you will find something beautiful and interesting for everyone. I can’t wait to go back and see more. As you will learn, I am not a repeater. I would much rather visit a place I have not visited before, revisiting a familiar location. To say, “I can’t wait to return,” is a big deal.

looking up at multiple colorful turkish style lamps
Lamp merchant at the Grand Bazaar, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

Old Town Istanbul

Getting Around Old Town

If your hotel doesn’t provide airport pick-up, ask them to estimate the cost of a taxi ride. We stayed in the Sultanahmet area (by the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia), and our taxi ride was about $22 one way for two people. If you are in the city’s tourist areas, there should be no reason to need a taxi again unless you need help carrying your goodies from the bazaars. With two metro lines, five tram lines, and two funiculars, getting around Istanbul is easy.

Getting lost in Istanbul can be easy, but don’t fear it is just as easy to find your way back to the main road. Carry a map with you just in case you do get lost. It is much easier to get past the language barrier by pointing to where you want to go than by using hand gestures and body contortions. Public transportation runs often, and the cost is reasonable, considering the alternative is sitting in traffic. Check the last transportation times depending on where you are traveling. I do not recommend renting a vehicle. Traffic and parking in the city are insane. You will spend your entire vacation in the car, getting from point A to Point B and trying to park.

Old Town Istanbul Eats

The Tea — Black tea served hot in a tulip-shaped mini glass on a red/white color-blocked coaster; add sugar or cream to taste. Not only is the tea delicious, but it also represents everything about Turkish hospitality. Many people offered us tea everywhere we went, from stores, restaurants, and friendly locals on the street. A popular belief is that when one shares a cup of tea, you have become friends for life. If you can have tea with a local, do it!

a ladies hand hold a tea cup and saucer with a spoon
One of Heather’s many cups of tea | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

The Food — I can be picky when it comes to food, but the food in Turkey was delicious. Every place we ate was wonderful. The service in Turkey is exceptional, as well. They take an interest in ensuring you like what you are eating and do their very best to satisfy you. Don’t be shy. Engage in conversation with your waiter. They are great resources for recommendations on what to see and do.

fresh gyro meat being looded on the cooking rotis
Gyro meat from scratch | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

The Sweets — Mmmmmm! I am not sweets; instead, I will fight you for a bag of chips. That all changed on this trip. Once I tasted one pastry, I wanted to eat them all. My favorites are Turkish Delight (Lokum), Baklava, Tulumbra, and Lokma. Lokum is a mixture of gel and sugars mixed in with some crushed nut assortment. My taste buds screamed for the pistachio lokum. Tulumbra and Lokma are fried donut mixtures covered in a syrupy, gooey, delicious mess. Baklava is probably the most famous Turkish pastry. Until I passed our first pastry shop, I had no idea there were so many different kinds of baklava. By the way…If you have nut allergies, I’m so sorry! You need to stay away from all of the above.

a table full of turkish sweet treats
Dessert vendor in the Grand Bazaar, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

Things To Do in Old Town

Meeting Locals

Make a friend for life. To keep things new — offer a local a cup of tea.

a cat and 4 kittens in a basket in a store window
Cat and kittens in a storefront window, Sultanahmet district Istanbul | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

Mosques

I believe we were told there are over 3,000 mosques in Istanbul. Every mosque offers something unique to its visitors. Some mosques are better equipped to handle visitors than others. The Blue Mosque is the most popular, the Süleymaniye Mosque is the largest, and the Murat Paşa Mosque is one of the oldest. We recommend visiting at least 2 or 3 different mosques during your stay. I am not religious, but I like learning about all religions. I am always fascinated with the various rituals and how a worshiping community interacts. Try to visit 30 minutes to an hour before prayer to have a chance to observe the pre-worship culture. You can feel the dedication to their beliefs and the closeness of the community as they greet each other and cleanse themselves before prayer.

a mosque rising up from out of the frame
Süleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes
three men sitting on stools washing their feet at separate spigots
Washing ritual outside the Süleymaniye Mosque | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes
a massive chandelier hanging just above the ground inside a mosque
Inside the Süleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes

Grand and Spice Bazaars

I enjoyed both bazaars. The Grand is the larger and more touristy of the two. I found the Spice Bazaar less expensive and easier to manage. They both contain mostly the same type of goods-the spice contains a bit more food and fewer touristy items.

One of many isles in the Grand Bazaar (Left) Spice Market, Istanbul (Right) | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

Dolmabahçe Palace

Guided tours are mandatory, and photography is not allowed. This place is beautiful. The over 4-ton (yes. over 4-ton) chandelier is jaw-dropping. Go early and stay at the front of your tour; otherwise, you can’t hear a thing.

a pond with a water feature in the center in front of a palace
Fountain outside of Dolmabahçe Palace, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes

Lodging

Adamar Hotel is one of my favorite hotels. The staff was excellent. Full of great recommendations, friendly and helpful. They even helped us with our Turkish pronunciation. The rooms are on the small side, but they are still comfortable. The best part of this hotel is the mouth-watering breakfast buffet served on the glass-enclosed top floor. The views from the restaurant and the open rooftop are the best you can get anywhere in the area. You get a 360-degree view from the roof, which is spectacular day or night. If you cannot stay at the hotel, at the very least, plan drinks at the Panoramic Restaurant. I promise you will love what you see.

a panorama of old town istanbul
Amazing view from the Adamar Hotel, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes

Istanbul has plenty of lodging for all budgets all over the city. I recommend the Sultanahmet area. The heart of the old town is easily walkable and convenient. There are plenty of public transportation pick-up areas to get anywhere else you want to go. When staying at a hostel, ensure the taxi driver knows the location. Ask the hostel contact for the closest landmarks.

[Matthew’s Favs]

One of my favorite spots was where the Galata Bridge meets Sultanahmet. There is so much life there. You have fishermen on the bridge, the hustle from the main ferry terminal, the much more enjoyable and manageable Spice Market, and two distinct views. You have the Galata Tower in one direction, surrounded by a buzzing metropolis of skyscrapers. In the other direction, the New Mosque is perched at the entrance of the old and powerful city center. By observing the terminal area, you can start to understand the endless tide of Istanbul, which is moving forward forever.

plastic cups containing yellow tailed minnows to be used as fishing bait
Bait for sale on the Galata Bridge, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes
a chestnut cart with an attendant helping a young man
Food vendor at the Ferry Terminal, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

Chora Church: if you enjoyed the Hagia Sophia mosaics or just mosaics, the Chora Church is a must-see. It is not much to look at from the outside, and it is sandwiched into a neighborhood that is certainly not on the beaten path, so I highly recommend a taxi for this adventure. You will find some of the most amazing mosaics on display worldwide. This place has walls, ceilings, arches, and anywhere else they can find. The scenes unfold with rich colors and intricate details. It is not to be missed.

a wall covered in mosiac tiles depicting 6 holy figures
Wall mosaics in the Chora Church, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes
a gold ceiling and dome covered in mosaic tiles
Ceiling mosaics in the Chora Church | Photo Credit: Matthew Holmes

Travel Basics

Language — Turkish

  • Hello — Merhaba (mur ha bah)
  • Goodbye — Elveda (El vay dah)
  • Thank you — Teşekkür ederim (Tea Sugar a Dream)
  • Where is the bathroom — nerede banyo (nare a day bahn yo)

Insider Tip

If you are thinking of doing a Bosphorus Cruise and want to do it at a reasonable price, take the Public Ferry. It takes you on about a 4-hour roundtrip journey for 25TL ($11.50 USD) and passes all the same sites the other cruises do. You can even stop in a small Asian fishing village for lunch before your return trip. Catch the ferry between the Galata Bridge and the Sirkeci train stop. It leaves at 10:35 year round with an additional 13:35 departure from April to October.

Photo Tips

This one is truly a mixed bag. Exploring a new city calls for all kinds of photography, and pinpointing one thing is almost impossible.

If you are up for a challenge and have the means, put a prime or fixed lens on your camera, preferably a 50mm lens, and head out into the city. The fixed lens will help keep your mind active as you must move to get the shot you want; you can’t just zoom in or out. This exercise will help lead you to unique photos that won’t match up to the thousands of people before you.

three child size mannequins with facial hair drawn on by sharpie in a market setting
Merchant display near the Spice Market, Istanbul | Photo Credit: Heather Holmes

We loved Istanbul and have more to share. Read about our tour here and our trip to the Asian side here.

Thanks for reading. To stay updated on all my travel stories, subscribe to my page here and follow us on Instagram for more regular updates.

Copyright 2024, Heather Holmes — All rights reserved.

Originally published at Travelationship

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