Driving the Dempster Highway — Here is what you need to know

So you are planning to drive the Dempster Highway, one of the most remote roads in North America. Let’s explore some of the things you need to know about this highway.

Last updated: November 2023

Road condition

The Dempster Highway is a maintained gravel road of varying quality. It is constantly being repaired, so there is no particular part of the road that is better or worse. Some sections are really bad where you need to drive slow, and on other sections, you can go relatively fast, up to the official speed limit of 90 kph. Expect an average speed of about 30–40 kph.

Most “locals” drive really fast, so get out of their way. Also, I recommend pulling over when encountering trucks as a way to reduce the risk of damaging your windshield.

You don’t need a 4x4 to drive this road, but you do need good tires. If you don’t have all-terrain tires, it is best to carry two spares and the know-how on how to change a tire.

Carry two warning triangles so that you can let others know that you are an obstacle on the road.

If you have AT tires, airing them down is probably a good idea, as it will absorb some of the bumps.

You won’t believe how many cars remain stuck on the road, and their drivers don’t even have the equipment to change a tire. Apart from a few spots, there is NO CELL COVERAGE, so if you are having any issues, your mobile phone is useless.

The only way to get a message out is by sending by passing travelers who can reach one of the closest towns. Anyway, help can be hours away, so always carry enough food and water in case you get stuck.

The good news is that even if this is a remote road, there is constant traffic. So you won’t need to wait too long until a car passes by. And, of course, it is common sense that if you see a stopped car to slow down and ask if everything is okay.

It will be a lot of driving, and you will be exhausted after doing the Dempster. Anyway, plan around 7–10 days for the whole trip.

Fuel

While the road is long and the gas stations rare, there is no reason to carry extra fuel with you, particularly if you don’t already have a jerry can.

Of course, this is valid if you have a modern vehicle with a range of at least 500 km on a full tank.

First of all, make sure to get fuel in Dawson City. Alternatively, there is an unattended gas station right at the start of the Dempster Highway.

Below is a list of places where you will find fuel on your way, and you will understand why additional fuel is not a necessity.

• Eagle Plains (~ km 370) — not the greatest or the cheapest place to get fuel, but they have regular and diesel. This is also the longest stretch without a gas station.
• Fort McPherson (~ km 550) — two reliable gas stations in town. Gas N Convenience Foods was cheaper than Co-op.
• Inuvik (~ 735 km) — the biggest city on the highway, has multiple gas stations.
• Tuktoyaktuk (~ 890 km) — it was a big surprise, but here was the cheapest fuel on the entire highway. There are multiple gas stations, but the best price was at Gruben’s Gas Bar.

Camping

Along the Dempster Highway, there are many informal camping opportunities. Just make sure to respect any “No camping” or “No entry” signs posted.

There are also a few campgrounds but do not expect much. Just a place to spend the night, trash, and pit toilets. Often there is no drinking water available.

Around the NWT border, the scenery changes dramatically, and for a while, there are not so many camping options.

Between Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (which is not part of the official Dempster Highway), there are no official campgrounds and not a lot of wild camping opportunities.

Groceries

Getting groceries (including veggies and some fruits) on the Dempster Highway is not an issue, mostly through the Northern Store chain. You don’t need to get into panic mode.

You will be surprised how well-stocked the stores are. You will find groceries in:

• Fort McPherson
• Tsiigehtchic
• Inuvik
• Tuktoyaktuk

Phone service & Internet

Phone service is very limited and available only in:

• Fort McPherson
• Tsiigehtchic
• Inuvik
• Tuktoyaktuk

At Eagle Plains, you can pay $5/device for some very, very slow internet. Inuvik has probably one of the fastest internet on the highway but don’t expect much.

Maybe Starlink will change the situation in 2023, but currently, this is a very, very remote road.

Attractions & things to do

Apart from the experience of driving the Dempster Highway, this highway is not really packed with typical tourist attractions.

If you don’t already have the MILEPOST, make sure to take this guide from Dawson City or Tombstone Territorial Park.

Wildlife

While this is a remote road, wildlife is not always waiting for you near the road. You need to keep your eyes open to spot something. Don’t have unrealistic expectations.

Tombstone Territorial Park

Worth spending at least a night here. There are many amazing trails that you can do here. So don’t skip over this park!

Arctic Circle Sign

After passing Eagle Plains, the first attraction is the Arctic Circle Sign, an amazing accomplishment and a great photo op.

Northwest Territories Sign

From here northbound, the scenery changes completely. You may see berry pickers or locals hunting.

Tsiigehtchic

Small fishing village. They have a visitor center, and you can visit the fish camps. The locals are very friendly.

This is not really a quick stop, as the ferry crossing to Tsiigehtchic takes a bit longer. The positive is that not many tourists go here.

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Tithegeh Chii Vitaii trail (Gwich’in Park)

Just before reaching Inuvik, this is one of the few trails on the Demster. It is a very nice trail with amazing views and a great way to stretch your legs after so much driving.

Inuvik

Inuvik is the biggest city on the Demster, but don’t expect much. Food options are very limited, mostly fast food, and very expensive.

Stop by the Western Arctic Regional Visitors Centre to get a certificate for reaching the Artic Circle.

I also recommend doing the greenhouse tour, as it is a great way to meet the locals.

Artic Ocean / Tuktoyaktuk

There is not so much that you can do in Tuktoyaktuk apart from grabbing something to eat and taking a few pics. Don’t expect the visitor center to be very useful in terms of information.

Please be respectful of any posted signs, including where you can’t swim into the ocean.

Conclusion

I hope this tutorial helped you get started with planning your Dempster Highway adventure. Leave a comment in the section below if you have any questions. I would love to hear from you!

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