The Indian Mountaineers Archive: Col Narendra ‘Bull’ Kumar

Entering the Indian Army as a cadet in 1950 at the Indian Military Academy in Dehradun, he was commissioned in the Kumaon Rifles by 1954. His unwavering resilience in the face of challenge rightfully earned him this nickname, shaping his trajectory in both military and mountaineering endeavors.

In the late 1970s, while leading the Indian Army’s mountain warfare school, Col. Kumar stumbled upon a critical detail. A German explorer’s American map showed the Line of Control far east of its known location, potentially ceding vital territory to Pakistan. Alarmed, Col. Kumar bypassed red tape by framing a reconnaissance mission as a “training session” for students. He led them into the uncharted heart of the Siachen Glacier, the world’s largest, braving treacherous terrain and temperatures of -50°C.

An exceptionally honored soldier, he was bestowed with the Param Visisht Seva Medal, a distinction typically reserved for Generals, making him the sole colonel ever to receive this honor. Furthermore, he was a recipient of the Padma Shri, India’s fourth-highest civilian award, and the Arjuna Award for leading the historic first Indian Ascent of Everest, which saw a then-record nine climbers reach the summit.

He held various prestigious positions throughout his career, including serving as the Principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, Principal of the National Ski School, and Head of the Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering at Gulmarg. Additionally, he served as the Commandant of the High Altitude Warfare School.

Col. Kumar scaled Sia Kangri, the first Indian to do so, and has repeatedly ventured into the “death zone” above 8,000 meters. His global acclaim was solidified following the triumphant expedition to Kanchenjunga in 1977 via the North East spur route, securing his lasting international recognition. Here’s to celebrating his great achievements over time!

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