The Indian Mountaineers Archive: Gurdial Singh

Gurdial Singh (1924–2023) led the first successful Indian expedition to Trisul in 1951, putting independent India on the mountaineering map. He wasn’t done there — he conquered Mrigthuni’s peak in 1958 and even summited Everest as part of the first conquering Indian team in 1965.

In 1960, he took a significant leap, driven by his deep fascination with Nanda Devi. He orchestrated an expedition to conquer the uncharted Devistan I (6680 m), marking his inaugural foray into the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the attempt was unsuccessful but in 1961 he returned with a more ambitious goal, Nanda Devi itself. Though Nanda Devi was unsuccessful due to their lack of readiness, nevertheless, they achieved the remarkable feat of making the inaugural ascent of Devistan I and subsequently conquering Maiktoli (6803 m) as well.

But Gurdial Singh’s legacy goes beyond summits. As a teacher at The Doon School, he ignited a passion for mountains in countless students, fostering a thriving mountaineering culture in India. He wasn’t driven by fame; he climbed for the pure joy of adventure and the beauty of the high ranges.

His achievements were widely recognized. He became the first Indian member of the prestigious Alpine Club, received the Arjuna Award in 1965, the Padma Shri in 1967, and he received both the Lifetime Achievement Award and the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award, commemorating his enduring dedication and impact on Indian mountaineering in 2007.

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