The Indian Mountaineers Archive: Major Narendra Dhar Jayal

Major Narendra Dhar Jayal, a name synonymous with Indian mountaineering, was a force of nature himself. Nicknamed “Marco Polo,” he wasn’t just a climber; he was a pioneer. Jayal’s passion for mountains ignited at Doon School, where his unruly spirit found an outlet in climbing. At the age of just 15, he accompanied his teachers along with two other boys to the Arwa Valley glaciers above Badrinath and camped at 19,000 ft. His thirst for adventure didn’t stop there. He trained in Switzerland, becoming a certified ski teacher a rare feat at the time.

Back in India, Jayal spearheaded the “Sappers Expedition” to Bandarpunch in 1950, a turning point for Indian mountaineering. As a young captain, he explored the Garhwal Himalayas, paving the way for future expeditions. He even served as the Indian liaison officer for the French Nanda Devi expedition in 1951.

But Jayal’s vision extended beyond personal summits. In 1954, thanks to the generous support from the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, the ambitious endeavour of establishing the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling finally materialized. Nandu was appointed as its inaugural Principal, while Tenzing assumed the role of Director of Field Training, a well-deserved honour for both individuals. This institute nurtured countless future climbers, including his own nephews who tragically died on Everest. His dedication even earned him the prestigious Swiss Guide’s Diploma, a rare honour for a non-Swiss climber.

Sadly, Nandu Jayal’s life was cut short in 1958 during an expedition to Cho Oyu. Though his time was brief, his legacy as a pioneer, leader, and passionate advocate for Indian mountaineering continues to inspire generations.

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