The Maya Train Project

Text and photos by Axel Javier Sulzbacher
Abridged by Syharn Shen (沈思含)

Spanning over 900 miles, the ambitious Maya Train project in Mexico promises economic growth and tourism in the Yucatán Peninsula. However, this development comes at a steep cost of environmental damage and indigenous rights.

A 150-meter-wide construction swath cuts through the dense, ancient jungle of the Selva Maya, transforming the tranquil landscape with the noise of machinery and activity.

The Maya Train project slices through the dense, ancient jungle, disrupting its tranquility with the noise of construction. Elias Siebenborn, a tourist guide living in the region for over twelve years, documents the impacts of the project. He has recorded 121 underground caves, crucial for the region’s groundwater. Elias initially photographed birds but now captures the damage caused by construction, facing online attacks and threats for his efforts.

The Selva Maya, spanning Mexico, Guatemala, and Belize, is the second-largest rainforest in the Americas. The Maya civilization once thrived here, building powerful cities like Chichén Itzá. The Maya Train aims to c’onnect these archaeological sites at speeds up to 160 km/h, boosting tourism and economic growth. Supported by Deutsche Bahn, Alstom, and the China Communications Construction Company, the project promises modern infrastructure with a €20 billion investment.

However, the reality is stark. Despite promises of minimal environmental impact, nine million trees have been felled, angering environmentalists and indigenous communities. The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, faces severe damage, threatening endangered species and habitats. Indigenous groups, like those represented by Sara López González, call the project a “megaproject of death,” highlighting the disconnect between government promises and on-ground realities. Protests have led to arrests, with the government dismissing concerns and labeling the Maya Train a “national security project.”

Construction workers are building a high stretch to provide greater stability on the limestone bedrock on one side and offer tourists a better view of the beaches near Playa del Carmen.

Geopolitically, the project underscores China’s growing influence, with Chinese companies supplying materials and constructing infrastructure. This raises questions about dependency and sovereignty as trade between China and Mexico increases. The project also highlights Mexico’s role as a conduit for Chinese goods into the United States, circumventing US trade barriers.

In Xpujil, a small town in the Yucatán Peninsula, residents initially welcomed the project, hoping for employment and economic growth. However, the influx of workers has driven up living costs, forcing many locals to leave. Basic infrastructure like electricity and water is strained, leading to frequent outages.

Further south, in the indigenous village of San José Nuevo, residents struggle with rising costs of essentials like water due to construction. Roberto, a young farmer and hunter, hoped for job opportunities but faces competition from more skilled, distant job seekers. Indigenous people remain marginalized, treated as second-class citizens.

Juan de Dios, originally from the southern state of Chiapas, sits in the cabin of his excavator at Section No. 5.

The Maya Train epitomizes modern development’s complexities, balancing economic growth with environmental and social costs. It serves as a microcosm of larger geopolitical dynamics and the challenges of sustainable development. As construction progresses amidst controversy, the project’s true legacy remains uncertain.

The train intersects with international collaboration, prominently featuring China’s role. The construction site in the Yucatán Peninsula, operated by the China Communications Construction Company, highlights this. Here, Mexican and Chinese workers collaborate, blending local craftsmanship with Chinese technology to build the railway infrastructure.

Until 1995, Mexico’s residents relied on a popular rail network until privatization ceased passenger services. The Maya Train’s estimated total cost, excluding electrification, was about $18.91 billion in October 2020. In December 2020, President López Obrador announced that the armed forces would operate parts of the route, with profits benefiting military pensions.

A family of ring-tailed coatis runs from the noise of construction near the Maya Train. Selvame del Tren, a group of environmental activists, archaeologists, and cave divers, campaigns against the train, arguing that its route through the Yucatán jungle is destroying fragile ecosystems home to threatened species like spider monkeys, jaguars, and nearly 400 types of birds.

Despite controversies, President López Obrador’s supporters view the train as a technical marvel. His approval ratings remain high, with the Morena party governing nearly two-thirds of the states. Through his daily “mañaneras,” he controls the national agenda, emphasizing his political agenda, the “fourth transformation,” promising progress without fully delivering.

In the wooded hills of northern Chiapas lies the final station of the Maya Train, near an important ancient Maya religious site. The EZLN guerrilla, still active in the area, opposes the project. Cho’ol Maya shaman Nicolas, living in seclusion, criticizes the government for breaking promises and disturbing the spirits of the forest. His perspective underscores the spiritual and cultural dimensions of the controversy.

As the Maya Train nears completion, it highlights the intertwined human and environmental costs of progress. Amidst grand visions and geopolitical maneuvers, the stories of those affected remind us of the need for balanced development with justice and sustainability.

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