F/W 2024 Fashion Week !

- A quick review of New York Fashion Week, with viewing highlights for each country.

The journey has begun again, starting in New York, making its way through London, Milan, and ending in Paris. The F/W 2024 season kicked off on February 9th, and will run through March 5th.

Here’s our take on what to see in each city, and the collections to keep an eye out for. We’ll also give you a quick rundown of the brands that stole the show at New York Fashion Week.

#Newyork / February 9–14

• Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang FW 2024 RTW

Peter Doe’s debut collection for Helmut Lang was well-received, and this season’s collection is expected to be even better. It was more confident and less fussed than the first collection, and one of the criticisms last time around was that Doe didn’t recreate the atmosphere of a Helmut Lang show — the feeling of seeing new fashions with the crowd.

An oversized shearling aviator’s chin-slashing collar keeps the cold at bay and makes you look like a boss, while a mid-layer outfit modeled after a bulletproof vest (to borrow a Virgil Ablohism that borrows heavily from Lang) is projected as an accessory that’s no good in a gunfight but useful for accentuating a chiseled torso.

• Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Ludovic de Saint Sernin FW 2024 RTW

Ludovic de Saint Sernin was the first fashion week in the brand’s history to be staged in Swat. What was different about Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s show outside of Paris?

It was bigger than any show that de Saint Sernin had done in Paris since 2017, mostly for men’s collections, sometimes for women’s. He is the poster boy for a new kind of queer fashion, where people of all genders wear shiny tanks and panties, hip-baring jeans with eyelet lace, and sexy, body-baring clubwear.

Courtesy of Collina Strada // Courtesy of Eckhaus Latta // Courtesy of Luar

True to its nickname, the Melting Pot, New York Fashion Week is all about diversity. This year’s calendar featured shows from brands as diverse as Raquan Smith and Loewe, both of which draw on black culture, as well as Willie Chavarria, which draws on Mexican culture. And let’s not forget Colina Strada and Eckhaus Latta, who always make waves with their unconventional casting.

New York Fashion Week may have come to a close, but why not tide us over until the next one?

#London / February 16–20

Courtesy of Molly Goddard // Courtesy of Erdem // Courtesy of David Koma // Courtesy of Ahluwalia

If New York’s weapon is diversity, London’s is youth. Of the short schedule, the most notable day is February 17, when Molly Goddard, Erdem, Ahluwalia, David Koma, Simone Rocha, and Richard Quinn show. That’s right, London’s fashion scene right now, with shows every hour or so.

Courtesy of Dilara Findikoglu

The following day will also see collections from longtime London Fashion Week regulars like JW Anderson and Eudon Choi. And let’s not forget the younger, more energetic names like Dilara Findikoglu, whose first full collection in a year has been rumored to be the successor to Sarah Burton. The four-day journey in London will conclude on February 20 with Daniel Lee’s third Burberry collection.

#Milan / February 21–26

Courtesy of Gucci // Courtesy of Tom Ford

Back in September, the key word running through Milan’s S/S 2024 season was ‘fresh start’. Sabato de Sarno and Peter Hawkings showed their first collections for Gucci and Tom Ford.

It’s a city steeped in tradition and history, but Milan is also full of newness. Tod’s named Matteo Tamburini as its new creative director, Walter Chiapponi filled Nicola Brognano’s shoes at BluMarine, and last week, Adrian Appiolaza was named Moschino’s new creative director, and there’s a lot of interest in whether he’ll deliver a great collection given the short time he’s had to prepare.

Courtesy of Prada // Courtesy of Bottega Veneta // Courtesy of Diesel

But the highlight of Milan Fashion Week is still Prada and Bottega Veneta, who are at the height of their powers right now. They’ll show on the 22nd and 25th, but keep an eye out for Diesel, who hosted an outdoor rave party for 7,000 people last September.

Paris / February 26-March 5

IMG from Alexander McQueen // Courtesy of Givenchy

The highlight of fashion week is undoubtedly Paris. Home to “mega-brands” like Dior, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Comme des Garçons, Balenciaga, Valentino, Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton, Paris is also home to some exciting first steps.

Alexander McQueen, which just lost Sarah Burton, who started as Lee McQueen’s assistant and has been with the house for nearly 30 years, is preparing for Seán McGirr’s debut collection on March 3. Chloé has a fresh start with Chemena Kamali, while Givenchy’s design team fills the Matthew Williams void once again.

Courtesy of Duran Lantink // Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov

But that doesn’t mean you should only focus on the mega-brands of LVMH or the Kering Group — there are also brands like Rick Owens and Kiko Kostadinov who have dreams of building their own “independent empires.”

Don’t miss the shows of The Row, the young but solid Coperni and Courrèges, who have become a staple in the Paris calendar, and the collections of up-and-coming designers like Zomer and Duran Lantink, who are getting rave reviews.

Which brands are you most looking forward to seeing at Fashion Week or are your favorites? Let us know what you think!

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