‘Gucci Ancora Fashion Show’ at Milan Fashion Week
In January, a new creative director took over from Alessandro Michele at Gucci. His name is Sabato De Sarno. He presented the ‘Gucci Ancora Fashion Show’ at this year’s Milan Fashion Week in Italy. It was his first debut collection since he came in, so there was a lot of anticipation.
The Naples, Italy native began his career at Prada in 2005, followed by Dolce & Gabbana and finally Valentino in 2009. Working alongside the head of Valentino, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, he oversaw the men’s and women’s collections for over a decade. It’s a stellar career for a 40-year-old. As Gucci’s creative director, he has a wealth of experience and understanding of Italian luxury fashion.
The company announced a major shakeup with Gucci’s post-COVID-19 performance showing no signs of improving. Alessandro Michele, the designer who made Gucci what it is today, was leaving, and Marco Bizzarri, the embattled CEO, was also leaving Gucci.
You can imagine how important this year’s Milan Fashion Week must have been for Gucci. Like many luxury brands, Gucci had deleted all of its official Instagram posts as part of its rebranding. People were eager to see how Sabato De Sarno would change Alessandro Michele’s Gucci. He wanted Gucci to have a strong sense of Italianness and was ready for a new chapter.
“Gucci is a very Italian brand with a huge heritage. Italian in craftsmanship, Italian in taste, and we lost that I think. I want to bring it back. Italianity is part of my story, for sure.” — Sabato De Sarno
The Gucci Ancora Fashion Show 2024, which translates to ‘Fall in love with fashion again with Gucci’, has been unveiled. The Italian word ‘Ancora’ means ‘again’, ‘still’, and ‘yet’. In the words of Sabato De Sarno, it represents something that was not enough for you, that you want more of, like a kiss from the person you love. He says that’s what this collection does, combining elements of fashion that he loves and never gets tired of with Gucci’s incredible history.
His first job at Gucci was a jewelry campaign for 2000s supermodel Daria Werbowy, who was returning to modeling for her old friend De Sarno. She was photographed wearing nothing but Gucci jewelry at the Chateau Marmont hotel, and it created a buzz. It was a glimpse of De Sarno’s minimalist vibe, and in retrospect, I think it hinted at what was to come.
The Gucci Ancora Fashion Show 2024
If Alessandro Michele’s Gucci was all about ‘Maximalism and a geek-chic aesthetic’, De Sarno’s Gucci is described as ‘minimalist and essentials-only’. This runway showcased his calm and refined designs. When you think of Gucci, there are certain colors and designs that come to mind. But it’s back to basics, with desaturated, muted colors instead of vibrant primary colors, and minimal logo play. It was as if they had stripped Gucci down to its essence. It was also a nod to the recent trend of ‘Quiet Luxury’.
Vogue wrote, “Sabato De Sarno has opened a new chapter for Gucci. Gone were the colorful, green-embellished patterns of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. Most of the 55 looks in the collection used monochromatic colors and stuck to streamlined silhouettes.” The styles were described as comfortable and wearable, yet bold and elegant.
He said that he wanted to take Gucci’s icons — the Jackie and Horsebit bag, and the GG belt — bringing them back to their essence. They were the elements that completed the iconic Gucci look. But in Sabato De Sarno’s own way.
How would you respond to Gucci’s Ancora? We can’t wait to see what Sabato De Sarno’s modern Gucci style will be like in the future. Watch Gucci’s Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection on the official website and YouTube.
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