Leo Wallin
Sep 5, 2018 · 3 min read

Clever Draping With a Sensual Touch

OSMAN runway show, images courtesy of OSMAN.

Introduction

Osman Yousefzada aims to bring the world together through fashion. Ethnicity, age and body shape — his artistic endeavour attempts to transcend the mental barriers we build for ourselves in how we dress. The end result often turns out architectural, that is with interesting draping rather than form-fitting designs. Sensuality is instead found elsewhere — deep cleavages and slits, transparency and a careful choice of fabrics — all of which lead the mind to wander and wonder.

Contextually

Yousefzada has described his cut to be “like plastic surgery but with a pair of scissors. They push you up and pull you in, in the right places, and make your legs longer.” As an example his funnel-necked coats and sculpted shoulders can help even out a top-heavy figure.

Combined with a his Perfect Five concept — five fresh iterations of five essentials — pants, tops, knits, dresses, and coats — released at entry-level prices at Harvey Nichols in the UK, has built a concept around what you really can make use of, rather than strictly adhering to trends.

Structurally

“Cut is really so important for me,“ was how Mr. Yousefzada framed this show. And you can see why. With a solid base in tailoring, the collection expands into intricate embroideries, prints with contrasting thorns and florals, delicate silks and a myriad of clever, flattering cuts.

Paying special interest to abstract art and ethnicity, expressed through a bold use of colour and tailoring, there’s a rich range of designs that both flatter and celebrate the female form.

Financially

Luxcite, a private equity firm, acquired a majority stake of Osman in 2017. They are now partnering up with Yousefzada to fund brand development and international growth for Osman.

The brand has become a firm favourite with celebrities. The list is long, including Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, Celine Dion, Nicole Scherzinger, Chanel Iman, Emma Watson, Jessica Alba, Taylor Swift and of course Lupita Nyong’o, who famously credited her Osman trousers to be her favorite piece in her wardrobe.

Artistically

Osman Yousefzada, a son of Afghan migrants in the UK, grew up helping out in his Afghani mother’s dressmaking busines. From an early age it became clear that he affinity for clothes. By the age of nine he knew how to cut patterns. At first, he enrolled at university to study Anthropology. But his calling for fashion kept overshadowing his studies, making his own outfits as a regular in the club scene. He went on to graduate from Central Saint Martins and joined Joseph in 2005, from where he was discovered and offered his first show.

In Conclusion

Yousefzada’s intention of creating flattering outfits and perfecting wardrobe essentials could very well be a recipe for success for the ambitious brand. With the often hectic lifestyle of today, the simplicity and guidance of their concept makes for an appealing argument This collection shows of a width and playfulness with the foundational concepts that might very well find its way both onto the red carpet and into the wardrobe of just about anyone. ◆

VINTAGE MAGAZINE

CELEBRATING FASHION HISTORY

Leo Wallin

Written by

Editor-in-Chief of Vintage Magazine www.instagram.com/leo.wallin

VINTAGE MAGAZINE

CELEBRATING FASHION HISTORY

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